The Costa Tropical is located in the southernmost part of the Spanish region of Andalusia. It is a beautiful stretch of hilly coastline, with higher mountains behind it. The name Costa Tropical refers to the climate (subtropical), but also to the fruits that grow here. The best mangoes, bananas, and ‘chirimoyas’ come from here. The region is unique in its kind in terms of climate. It is sunny and warm, but also regularly experiences some moisture, which creates an ideal growing climate for the tropical fruits. Many people still don’t know that you can also enjoy cycling here. That’s why we took the plunge and went exploring. We’re taking you to the Costa Tropical!
Hoppin' around on the bobble-coaster
At the Malaga airport, I am greeted by a cheerful old boss. He has a sign with my name on it in his hand. Andalusia relies heavily on (sun)tourism, and the Malaga airport is a living example of this. 80 gates, 100 of these ‘beermen’ with signs, lots of tourists. This is the beating heart of the Andalusian tourism industry.
The cheerful boss wants to teach me some things. On the way to Almuñecar, I put my basic Spanish to use to communicate with the driver. Even with all our bumbling and hesitations, we finally managed to have a conversation. We talked about the region, its dependence on tourism and fruit cultivation, but also about the cuisine. He turns out to be a good amateur chef and, between mouthfuls of food, gives me some tips on what to eat where. It’s the end of the day, so I forgot a lot. But the fish, and especially the ‘Bacalao’, I had to try. It’s on the list.
Holy Virgin of Antigua
Almuñecar It is a typical Spanish town, with a large church, an old center with narrow streets, and a huge castle. The influence of the ‘morens’ who settled here centuries ago is clearly visible. The church is completely covered in gold. The city’s patron saint, the Virgin Antigua, is dressed entirely in gold. As far as I understand, during the processions on a boat, this lady is sent out to sea. Everything is done to ensure her safe return home. Nowadays, fishing is still practiced, but the village is mainly a haven for older British and French tourists who enjoy the sun, affordable food, and a base for exploring the region.
By the rivers of Babylon
If I were in the Hotel Bahia Almunecar It is just after 10 p.m. I want to eat something quickly, but the hotel restaurant is already closed. Fortunately, there is still something open in the city. The hotel has a rental bike ready for me. Unfortunately, there is no bicycle storage or other bicycle facilities. Bringing the bike into the room is the only rule. That room is fine; spacious, with a good bed, a seat, a bathroom, and a balcony. Sea views, what more could you want? When I return to the hotel after my quick evening meal, I hear a lot of commotion coming from somewhere. The noise gets louder on the first floor. In a room, I see a large group of elderly people clapping and singing along. The sounds of ’by the rivers of Babylon‘ blast out of a speaker. The entertainer on the stage smiles as I look around the corner. Tomorrow, I’ll quickly get on my bike.
Along the coast
The next morning I use it to explore the west side of the Costa Tropical. The town of Nerja, at one point just 20 kilometers away, calls out loud and clear. The route I have created first follows the promenade and then continues along the coast. As if by magic, my daughter would say. As soon as I have entered the route on Komoot, I see quite a few elevation meters passing by. Oh well, that’s to be expected. Off we go! It’s a lovely temperature. A degree or two above 25 and a lovely sun. Perfect for a lovely spring day on a bike. I did have it planned beforehand though. well lubricated, Also, on the advice of the locals.
For the first few kilometers I follow the promenade. It’s a good lookout here, because despite it being a quiet road, there are a lot of cars driving by. After a few kilometers, it seems the coastal road has come to a standstill. All I can see are steep rock walls. A little road turns to the left and then to the right. Downhill in a straight line. I have to swallow my disappointment. In the Netherlands, a ride along the beach is a nice coffee break. Here on the Costa Tropical, you have to always bring your climbing legs along. There’s no other choice: we’re going up!
It's a turn and a turn on the narrow streets and when I look over my shoulder. It's a steep climb towards the top. From there it's quite fast along the coast towards Nerja. Here it goes up and down, the coastal road is not a meter flat.
Nerja is a lovely town
In Nerja you can visit the ‘balcony of Europe’, where you have a good view of Morocco. It’s quite touristy there, but you can stop in the center for a coffee and some food. Check if you can stay out of the real tourist area, because that’s where you’ll quickly end up in the ’tourist trap’. The infrastructure is well organized. Nice bike paths and somewhat attentive drivers. Avoid the lunch hour, though, because then it’s very busy with cars and other traffic.
To the hinterland
The next day, our group heads into the hinterland. We leave from the dreamlike Salobreña Towards the hinterland. We set a course towards Jete. A beautiful challenging climb awaits us here. First we drive towards Almuñecar and then turn right into the hills. At first the traffic is still quite busy and we drive on a regular two-lane road. Here you will have to cycle back-to-back for a while. As soon as we get further out of the coast, it gets quieter, the views get better and we turn beautifully and head back. For 5.5 kilometers, you will have to cover 7.2%. But the reward is also on top here with beautiful views.
Back to the coast
It’s a pleasure here. As we descend towards the coast, we’re treated to some beautiful hairpin bends. It’s a bit of a struggle with the narrow roads, but nowhere is it really dangerous. We almost always have the coast ahead of us. The smiling faces from the beginning are getting more and more smiling. It’s towards Salobreña that we’re welcomed at the local sports centre by the director of the tourism office. The tour and the opportunity to shower are very nice! This way we can head off to Granada refreshed.
But not before we are treated to a guided tour and then a very extensive lunch. Fresh fish, vegetables, fruit and more. After all, we are here on the Costa Tropical! So a lunch without fruit is not possible.
Trip to ’the farm’
Before we really leave, we go to a tropical fruit farm for a while. The grower himself explains everything to us about the fruits, the process of growing them, the advantages and disadvantages, working with nature (and therefore the lack of rain). But also the advantage of this coastline, with the natural water basins of the Sierra Nevada. Beautiful to see. We let ourselves taste the fruits!
Bike hotels on the Costa Tropical
Costa Tropical routes
These are the routes, including some other routes from Andalusia from a previous trip by Jurgen van Teeffelen. You can find the information about that in his January article.
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.