It’s a Thursday in August around noon. Today we’re cycling to Barrage d’Emosson, in the area of Martigny. The sun is high in the sky, a clear blue sky. I quickly check my bike computer: 10 percent incline. It feels like twice that. The sweat beads on my face. A fellow cyclist calls out to me: ‘From here on it gets even steeper.’ The courage sinks into my bones. Fortunately, I still have room to downshift. At the top, there’s a beautiful view of the dam of Emosson. That keeps me going.
By: Sander Kolsloot – photos: Alain Rumpf
World Cup territory
Barrage d’Emosson of Finhaut-Emosson is located in the canton Valais (Wallis in German) And here, in September 2020, a complete World Cup spectacle was supposed to take place. The coronavirus threw a wrench in the works: the World Cup was cancelled and moved to Italy. However, we had the opportunity to explore some beautiful routes in the area and still experience a bit of that World Cup atmosphere.
Local Hero
On the first day of our stay in Martigny, Valais, we are kindly welcomed by Alain Rumpf, our guide, and former pro Steve Morabito. We are presented with an extensive exploration of what the World Championships course should have been like. Morabito is the local hero, born in Monthey, just 20km from Martigny. Nowadays he is the ambassador of the region, but is mainly involved in making the bike routes in Valais safer. He personally ensured that at least fifteen climbs were equipped with signage and that bike routes were mapped out. A good contribution from the former Swiss champion.
Scherprechter
After a brief introduction, we slowly make our way out of Martigny. The Col de la Petit Forclaz is there quite quickly, once the intended steep climb in the World Championships course. With more than four kilometers of climbing at an average of almost ten percent, this is a serious test for the legs. Puffing and leaning forward, we reach the top. Morabito is waiting for us with a smile. ‘This is a good way to warm up, isn’t it?’ he grins. He still has enough breath to talk calmly about his work as ambassador for Valais. A nice addition to the magnificent view over the valley towards Martigny.
Barrage d’emosson
After a short coffee and water break, it’s almost 30 degrees in the full sun, and we continue on our way towards the Barrage D’Emosson. This climb was the final climb during the 17th stage of the 2016 Tour de France, a stage that saw decisions being made in the final kilometers of the race for the overall classification.
MORABITO!
We crawl up the hill with a slithering pace, and we understand more and more why. The signs along the side, which Morabito so proudly talked about, provide accurate and sometimes painful information about the next few kilometers. Elevation rates of over ten percent are the rule rather than the exception. The closer to the top, the steeper it seems to get. Morabito drives up with extra ease here. The road has his name painted more than 200 times. A gift from the fan club led by his brother. It will surely give him extra morale.
Breathtaking views
Once we’re up there, we stop moving. Literally and figuratively. The view of the alpine peaks, with Mont Blanc in the distance, is sublime. I’m truly moved. The combination with the reservoir and the dam completes the picture. The clicking of cameras and the cries of admiration break the silence.
Back again
After a good Swiss lunch and a short ride over the dam, we head into the descent. The climb up was already nice, but the descent presents a technical drop with good road conditions and a few nice steep turns. The traffic is manageable, which helps in a descent like this. At the bottom, there is still a short climb to the top of the Forclaz, before ending in Martigny via a beautifully flowing descent.
Detail: the speedometer shows almost 80km/h and while everyone is hanging upside down in the saddle, Morabito leans loosely with his hands on the handlebars.
Best mechanic
The Swiss is completely relaxed but also extremely helpful. As we descend, I’m struggling. Not a walk in the park. Fortunately, it’s a slow downhill, but still serious enough for a tire change. Steve quickly takes the wheel and, as a true mechanic, changes the tire. At the same time, he gives some tips on other climbs and helps with securing the saddle better. I hadn’t expected that at all and eagerly record the scene on the camera. What a wonderful day on the bike and what a unique place to visit.
Stay
Switzerland generally has very good accommodation. For cyclists, there are also special bike hotels, with a locked storage area for the bike, space to change keys, and extra good facilities (even breakfast is included). If you go cycling in Valais, you can stay in a hotel like ours: Martigny in the Hotel Campanille. That’s just like going from a ‘bike-friendly’ place to an officially bike hotel.
Food – Drink
While cycling in Valais, you’ll come across all kinds of beautiful places to stop for a drink or snack. Above the Forclaz there’s a great spot for a coffee and you can refill your water bottle at the water well. Above the Emosson dam there’s a good lunch spot with local specialties.
Useful information: In the winter, many passes and climbs are closed due to the snow (and ice). If you want to know if you can cycle near by: On the Alpen Pässe website in Switzerland you will find the most up-to-date information on the opening of these passes. https://alpen-paesse.ch/en/
How to get there
Switzerland is easy to travel to from the Netherlands by car, although the region around Aigle – Martigny certainly takes 10-11 hours of travel time in total. A good alternative is the train. Switzerland has one of the best train systems in Europe and there is also the option to purchase a Swiss Travel System for multiple days (maximum 14 days). All information about this can be found here the SBB website
You can take the night train to Basel, or alternatively a regular train, where you will have to check whether you can bring your bike on board. Via Nightjet.com You find a lot of information.
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.