An ingenious system of drainage canals and mills has ensured that ‘the Kinderdijk‘ Dry feet remain. Only during the flood of 1953 were there also problems here and the population suffered as a result. The 19 windmills are a unique sight and have therefore been designated UNESCO World Heritage since 1997. For those born in the Netherlands, windmills are part of a normal streetscape. For many tourists, the day trip is well worth the effort. If you go cycling to the Kinderdijk windmills, keep in mind ‘traffic’. The route to get there from Utrecht is one to mark on the map.
Newport city
The route to Kinderdijk can be taken in several ways. Against the clock, via Zilverstad Schoonhoven. Or in the direction of the clock, via villages like Ameide, Streefkerk and Groot-Ammers. Somehow, I always choose the route with the clock on the right. Maybe because of the wonderful dike road for the first 40 kilometers, maybe because of habit. Or maybe you just have the most beautiful view of the town of Nieuwpoort. This is a beautiful fortified town, directly opposite Schoonhoven. The two towns, in their size and proximity, are very special; they are separated by the river Lek. A ferry takes you easily from one side to the other. Nieuwpoort has nothing to do with the famous ‘Battle of Nieuwpoort’. That would have made the story even more interesting. If you have time to spare, the fortress walls and the historic buildings in the city center are well worth a visit.
Watery Molenwaard
It's a delight to stroll along the river. The road seems made for a nice ride on a road bike. In the villages (and towns) you have to be careful, but otherwise you can easily make up time on a two-on-two basis. In several places you can cross over to the other side. The bridges cost a reasonable €0.80 to €1.00 and you can also pay without using cash. That's another saving. On the left side, facing south to the spectators, there is the Molenwaard, Here, a mix of water and meadows reveals a typical Dutch landscape. You pass the Ammerse Boezem (What’s in a name?) that crosses the Groote or Achterwaterschap stream. This latter stream is connected to our day’s goal: the beautiful windmills of Kinderdijk.
The wanderer by the mill
When the name ‘De Zwerver’ comes up in our house, I always have to grin. When I was younger, my father could tell a tasty story about his own, brief adventure with the local football club. About that one corner kick he managed to score in one go. Whether that’s true…let’s leave that aside for now. About my uncle Gerrit, whom I actually don’t know, but who apparently scored more goals than the Dutch national team’s strikers combined. That he had a forward who was in the Dutch amateur team, the history doesn’t mention that. De Zwerver, at the Molen. What a name. We used to go there once, and I had in my memory a huge stand, with a huge number of fields. In reality, it’s a modest complex for a Saturday amateur club. Because playing on Sunday is still not in the cards here.
The mills
The windmills of Kinderdijk are in every tourism book of the Netherlands. Justifiably so, if you ask me. Despite the fact that windmills are commonplace for us, the quantity and function of this group of windmills is unique. It is a majestic sight, which we approach from the ‘back’. You can see it with the bike in Nieuw-Lekkerland the meadows in the area, and then you drive into the complex from the back. This is convenient for several reasons:
- You have a better view of the windmills
- The road is not yet littered with tourists here.
- You can possibly turn in earlier so you don't have to shuffle through the crowd
Over the water
To get back we have to take the ferry. Sometimes you are lucky and you can drive right up; sometimes you have to wait a while. If you are feeling restless, you can also drive through the Molenwaard, but for the view and the stop further on in the beautiful Schoonhoven, the ferry is a must. Once on the other side of the water, you have a completely different perspective on the world.
Schoonhoven – Silver City
Right between Utrecht and Kinderdijk lies the silver city of Schoonhoven. A historic center, with a real town gate, located by the water. An ideal spot for a longer lunch or just a coffee stop. Fietscafé Fausto is located here nicely along the route, but this time we are not stopping at this recommended spot. Previously, Fausto was located in the center, but in recent years they have moved the neighborhood to a different location. Would you like to just stop and look at the boats? At the pier you’ll find a place with great views of the traffic along and on the Lek river.
Flying home
Schoonhoven doesn't have an airport, but you can take a nice route back over the dyke with the wind in your back. The road is well paved and you really have the feeling that you can take off. I personally find the route through the polderlands, via the hamlets of Uitweg, Lopikerkapel and Lopik, to be a more pleasant route. You have all the space there; you can take the special (narrow) bike path or the slightly wider route along the canal. It winds past farms, country shops and open fields. You can see the Lopik transmitter mast (which is actually in IJsselstein) clearly. Just before the transmitter mast and the beautiful location of the Transmission station, Then turn back towards the dike, for the final stretch towards the Lekbrug near Vianen.
Route
You can find the route on our website. Komoot account. There you will find even more inspiration, including for all kinds of routes from Utrecht, but also our collections about Tenerife, Crans Montana and more!
Questions & tips
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