Portugal is an underrated cycling destination. The coastline, the Douro valley, the Algarve and Alentejo and then we have the region adjacent to Galicia Not yet mentioned. Beautiful landscapes, a culinary palette that leaves you speechless, and variety from flat to climbing. In a word, stunning. In recent months, Pedro do Couto Lopes has traveled the beautiful N2 route. This route, which stretches from the mountainous north to the plains of the south, is a true delight to cycle. If you read Pedro’s report, you’ll want nothing more than to head straight to the land of Fado and port. So, on a discovery tour of Portugal by bike! Aqui vamos nos!
Text and photos: Pedro do Couto Lopes
Lately I've been thinking about how I Portugal I could have gotten to know my home country better while cycling. I have always wanted to learn more about my homeland, so I took action. With a map as my guide, I started looking for the N2 route. Almost immediately, the N2 route emerged as the perfect way to challenge myself on the one hand and better understand the country where I was born on the other.
Traveling end-to-end through Portugal on the National 2 was for me the best way to discover new perspectives. Additionally, I was able to push my boundaries, meet other people, and open myself up to new experiences. It might sound like a healing experience. Maybe it was that way.
The route
The route starts close to the Spanish border in the north at Chaves (pronounced ‘Shavs’). From this starting point, the route ends in the heart of the Algarve, in Faro. If you have reached the Atlantic coast, you have covered a total of 740 kilometers. Not an easy challenge, of course, as those 740 kilometers are by no means flat. In particular, the north is mountainous and you will have to overcome some beautiful climbs here and there.
Preparation
An adventure like this needs to be well prepared for. With a fixed route, planning is easier, and that’s why I’ve spent a day preparing. My experience on the bike and a considerable number of hours watching YouTube help me along the way. That way, I know pretty much everything I would like to (or should) know about multi-day trips by bike. My preparation went well, my training was top-notch, and I felt good on the bike. The logistics were completely taken care of down to the last detail. But as you’ll see, there was still a minor setback in my preparations for my first solo adventure.
Positive news
Seven days before the start of my adventure, I tested positive for COVID. Not what I had hoped for, but with the support of my partner, I am still getting ready to start the adventure. It’s still bizarre to see that I went through two years without testing, while I was working at a school. I was never tested positive, and now I want to start an adventure that I really need a lot of power for, and I tested positive! So much physical preparation seems to suddenly fall to the wayside.
Mental challenge
It is mainly a mental challenge at first. Will I be back in shape in time? In the end, you have to feel it for yourself, but on the 7th day of my recovery (day 1 of my trip), I actually start riding on the N2. Although a better preparation is conceivable, especially with such a long challenge, I have prepared well. Plenty of rest, plenty of paracetamol and lots of tea. You can’t do much at a time like this. Time will tell whether that is enough. To be absolutely sure, I do a short test run the day before the start, in the heat outside. The temperature shows 35 degrees. After an hour of driving, 32 kilometers on the tires and 500 meters of elevation gain, I know where I stand.
Managing the heat
After my test run and the first few kilometers, I realize what the biggest challenge is: the heat. Physically, the challenge shouldn’t be a problem, but in combination with the heat, it can become a difficult challenge. I realize that I have to split the six days into a total of 12 blocks. Every day in two blocks. That made it easier to manage. Longer blocks at the beginning of this adventure and shorter blocks at the end. Each stage also has its own challenges.
The start, finally!
At 7:30 in the morning I finally get on the bike. My focus, stubbornness, and drive ensure that I leave anyway on the day I’ve set myself. It feels fantastic. The kilometers fly by and the first route goes by so quickly. Douro Valley A gem on the UNESCO World Heritage List. I know the routes here like the back of my hand. By the time I reach the valley, I’m pretty well cooked. Not because of the effort, but because of the temperature. My Garmin shows a temperature of 39(!) degrees and it’s only 10 a.m. The heat really is a challenge! The heat in the valley is unique, because this place has its own microclimate. Good to remember. And in case you haven’t noticed yet: the climate (and especially the heat) is the most important factor why the port tastes so delicious.
Long climb
The sun is doing its job to squeeze the energy out of my body, while I prepare for the longest climb of the route. This is 19 kilometers with an average of six percent. Now I am used to the climbs in the Douro valley, so I knew this would be a huge ‘grinder’, where I would have little rest. I think back to the first time I did a round in the valley. I got a sunburn that I would usually have. It also gave me some reserve to go back. The Douro valley and the heatwave is something in my head.
During the climb, I stop at the halfway point to refill my water and to buy some salt because I’m sweating quite a bit. That helps me get over a dead end for a moment. Mentally it’s tough, but I know that it’s only 25 kilometers after reaching the top. Not easy kilometers, for sure. Again, that mental challenge and the fear of a sunburn.
A little bit of meditation and a little bit of peace of mind ensure that I have enough motivation to tackle the last stretch. I drive the last 25 kilometers without being completely drained and arrive in Castro Daire with a euphoric feeling. I have succeeded. Despite the circumstances and everything that comes with it. I have covered 130 kilometers and almost 2000 meters of elevation gain. What a delight. I can’t wait to see what the next few days bring me.
PAKLJIST
Are you going on an adventure yourself? Then be sure to check out our basic packing list, which will ensure you are always well-equipped and fully prepared for your trip. You can find the basic packing list here here! Just like many other tips, e.g. about how to deal with the sun.
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.