The Dutch Wadden Sea The Wadden Sea has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2009. The Wadden Sea is an extensive area that stretches from Den Helder all the way to Esjberg in Denmark This area is often underestimated because at first glance there is no ‘landmark’. Of course there is the lock dam, but for many cyclists this is not the reason to take up cycling. The well-known climbs or a course history with a classic are missing a bit. The area is characterized by the construction of dykes against flooding, but above all by the beautiful untouched nature. Where many Dutch people go to the islands and leave this part behind, it is really worth staying on the mainland. Ruben Hoogland and Rik de Voogd went on a three-day trip along the Wadden Sea in 2021. This is their report.
Text: Rik de Voogd – Photo: Acid Films/Maarten Zuur
Day 1 – North Holland
I had no idea that this part of the Netherlands was so beautiful. We start our three-day trip in Den Helder. From there, you can see the contours of the Waddeneiland Texel, further out in the Waddenzee. From here, Ruben and I drive south along the coastline. The dunes here actually look just like the dunes near Hoek van Holland. A familiar image, although all dunes are different.
As soon as we head east, the tulip fields start to bloom. During the season (our visit was in spring), the color palette of the tulips is overwhelmingly beautiful. Actually, we know very little about the tulip industry.
Tulip business
We made a stop at Floratuin Julianadorp To be taken along by owner Arno into the ups and downs of a tulip business. rno grew up as a butcher’s son, but he saw little point in following in his father’s footsteps. Many of his friends were involved in the flowers, particularly tulips and daffodils. With the support of his father, Arno started his own business in the flowers at the young age of 20. He grew steadily and eventually now sells more than 300 different types of spring and summer flowers.
Arno works primarily on blending varieties to create hybrid variations in all kinds of unique colors. Arno has a passion for his work and he guided us around the entire company. Absolutely a highlight of this day. After this passionate encounter, we treated ourselves to a delicious lunch at Restaurant In Het Dorp. That definitely should have been there.
The finale
Our trip then brought us to the harbor of Den Oever, before crossing the Afsluitdijk. This 32-kilometer-long lock of the IJsselmeer is currently closed to bicycle traffic. Unfortunately, we would have liked to have done the views to both sides by bike. The only way to get from North Holland directly to Friesland now is by bus, and after arrival we cycled the final 10 kilometers to Harlingen. In the authentic Frisian town, a room had been booked at Hotel de Bank.
Day 2 – Friesland
The second leg of our three-day adventure took us from the picturesque Harlingen to Dokkum. After a good night's sleep in a fancy suite, we were also treated to a very good breakfast at Hotel de Bank. It was the kickstart of our day. When you drive out of Harlingen, you have to cross the almost inevitable bridges that span the small canals and locks. This way we continue our journey north, along the beautiful Waddens coast. The surrounding area of our journey is provided by the typical Dutch scenery. Along the way to our final destination we stop in the village of Sint Annaparochie, where we chat with farmer Teun de Jong and his wife Froukje. They invite us for a coffee break, and we were more than happy to accept.
Family Business
The family business of Teun and Froukje has been in existence since the late 1800s and is called ‘The Bildt’. The main product here is potatoes (the cultivation of them). Farmer Teun tells the story of how the landscape has changed over time, largely through nature, with a helping hand from humans, and why this land is so suitable for potato cultivation. His story about the entire production process from planting to harvesting and how the potatoes find their way to all corners of the world is immensely inspiring. I am impressed by his story because farming isn’t something I am very familiar with.
After relaxing in the garden enjoying a good cup of coffee and the stories of Teun, we also get a tour of the old and the brand new farm. With every minute I gain more respect for this duo and their way of life. I certainly don’t forget to emphasize this even more during our farewell.
Lunch
Our next stop is already in sight. This time we’re stopping at Restaurant de Zwarte Haan. This location is unique, as it’s right on the sea and completely surrounded by nature. The lunch is fantastic. We get a local dessert and with the double espressos we’re more than happy.
After we have climbed back on the bike, we drive along the coastline further on and we fall from one surprise to another. Bright green grass on the dykes where the sheep and lambs graze, the quietest streets and roads we have ever seen. Every now and then a glance at the Wadden Sea on the left and we see the islands of Vlieland, Terschelling and Ameland appear in the distance.
Coming inland you mostly encounter authentic farms surrounded by endless fields. If you enjoy peaceful silence, space and endless views, then this is the place to be. And what is also special about this flat land: we drove 30 kilometers at an altitude of 100 meters.
Day 3 – Groningen
The Wadden area is really vast. On our last day, we drive from Dokkum in Friesland to Winsum in Groningen. We spent the night in a beautiful Tiny house in the Schreiershoek recreation area near Dokkum. After another extensive breakfast (can we eat more?), we jump on our bikes towards the province of Groningen.
Once again, we drive along the beautiful coast where we drive over the dykes and, in the meantime, try to avoid the sheep as well. The endless views of the Wadden Sea never get boring. The sea forms a beautiful water surface that is interrupted by the well-known dunes and marshy land. The view changes with every hour.
Especially in combination with the partial cloud cover we had. In the northern Netherlands, the provinces of Friesland and Groningen are separated from each other by the Lake Lauwersmeer, which was created. Despite this, it is a UNESCO national park that is known for its pristine nature and the excellent opportunity to spot birds.
We stop briefly in the harbor of Zoutkamp, which is known for its eel fishing. An hour later we set sail again towards Niehove for a nice lunch break. Finally, after 113 kilometers, we arrive in Winsum at Camping Marenland, where we spend the last night. We sit together and have to process all the wonderful impressions.
Some thoughts
This trip turned out to be surprisingly good. Perhaps the good weather helped, but the region completely exceeded our expectations. This region is perhaps the most beautiful natural environment in our country. We had mapped out wonderful routes and they certainly did not disappoint. If you are inspired too, definitely go there. You won’t be disappointed.
For this trip, we mainly used the information from www.visitwadden.nl – the official website of this tourism area. You can find more inspiration for routes on the Komoot page of Rik.
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.