When you think of cycling, you might not immediately think of Poland. But one thing is certain: Poland is making great strides in the cycling sector. There are several new cycling routes, suitable for both race cyclists and gravel enthusiasts. This time, Marinke took us along, exploring the region of West Pomerania, just across the border with Germany. Here are the routes to choose from, and one thing is certain: you’ll want to come back here. From vast lakes and peaceful villages to cities and seaside resorts where time seems to stand still. In three days, the many faces of the Polish region of West Pomerania come to life. On our program? The ‘Szczecin Lagoon Cycle Route’and ‘Velo Baltica,’, on a gravel bike.
West Pomerania: a brief introduction
If you travel by train or car from the Netherlands to Poland via Berlin, you will most likely arrive in West Pomerania. The region borders Germany, the German states Mecklenburg-Vorpommern and Brandenburg. On the northern side it borders the Baltic Sea. The largest city and also the starting point of our adventure is Szczecin (pronounced: Sjtetsjien), a little over two hours drive from Berlin. The city is located on the river Oder and is internationally renowned, with, among other things, a large harbor, the renovated Ducal Castle and the impressive Szczecin Philharmonic Hall, which won a European Architecture award. We travel by train and in one day you can get from every station in the Netherlands to Szczecin. Once there, the area covers almost 23,000 km² to explore. The West Pomerania Region is half the size of the Netherlands. First we take a city walk and indulge in a beer tasting and a delicious, generous meal under the atmospheric vaults of the Brewery Wyszak. My first encounter with Poland literally tastes like more.
Day 1: Szczecin – Wolin, via the Szczecin Lagoon Cycle Route, 100 km
At breakfast, I am impressed by the huge hearty buffet, which would not be considered a dinner buffet within Dutch culture. However, I still remain loyal to my preference for a sweet breakfast, and venture into a typical Polish ‘fruit gel’: a kind of lemonade in gel form. Great fuel for a day on the bike! For the first 10 kilometers, we drive along large busy roads, with at least one bike path and almost no traffic lights. Then we enter the cycling route: today we follow the signs for number 3: the Szczecin Lagoon Route. The route is straightforward: we actually follow the shores of the lake almost the entire day, largely through a bird-rich nature reserve, on a flat bike path with gentle gravel. We regularly encounter special resting places for cyclists, with seats and a canopy. Furthermore, the route offers little shelter, and I am glad that we have the wind with us!
If we depart from the lake for a moment, we cycle, through a rainstorm, towards a beautiful forest – a nice change and the shelter comes as a welcome relief. In the harbor town of Stepnica, we indulge in a delicious piece of fish and fried potatoes – a common dish in this region. After lunch, we continue the route on paved roads, eventually returning to a beautiful gravel bike path through a nature reserve where bison and wild Konik horses roam. With exactly 100 kilometers on the odometer, we end the day on the island of Wolin.
Day 2: Wolin – Międzyzdroje (with detour to Świnoujście), 72 km
Today we have a varied program: we start with a visit to a lookout tower, then there is a guided tour of a Viking village planned, before leaving Wolin and continuing our journey towards the coast. For someone with a fear of heights, like me, a lookout tower is a challenge. That’s an understatement. I hesitate for a moment whether to go up. However, the Wolin Observation Tower turns out to be no problem: it is wheelchair-friendly, so no steep stairs but a beautiful gradual ‘ramp’ up. From above, you have a vast view of the region, without feeling like you’re on the edge of a precipice.
Once we are safely back down, we will visit the nearby Slavs and Vikings’ Center: A reconstructed early medieval Viking village. An interesting glimpse into history and a nice addition for those who want more than just cycling! After this tourist morning, we get back on the gravel bike.
Gravel variation on Velo Baltica
Back on the bike, we ride through forests and fields, sometimes over wide gravel paths, sometimes over bumpy concrete slabs. The contrast with the day before is huge: more variety, more challenge. After about 30 kilometers, we reach Międzyzdroje, where we spend the night today. However, that’s not all yet: there is still a ‘come-and-go’ to Świnoujście planned.
We are now also taking the coastal route ‘Velo Baltica’, marked with number 10. The stretch to the (free) ferry that takes us to Świnoujście is beautiful. First we drive for a while on a bike path with views of endless sandy beaches and the sea, before diving back into the wooded environment on somewhat more challenging, rocky gravel paths with some loose sand here and there. After the crossing, we have lunch on the terrace of the atmospheric restaurant. Prochownia, Amidst old fortresses.
Stawa Mlyny
After lunch, we visit ‘Stawa Mlyny’, a lighthouse in the shape of a windmill and also an important national symbol. We are now also very close to the border with Germany, and on that border there is a monument to the Iron Curtain. We decide to cycle along the coast, very nice to drive a bit over the beach! Then it’s back to the ferry at the promenade. Here you will find a large number of wellness centers, spas and health resorts. That’s what the region is known for. We take the same road back to Międzyzdroje. It’s now the end of the day and we are treated to a sun sinking into the sea. That is quite beautiful. We end this day with a delicious dinner at the restaurant of Hotel Aqua Resort, where we also spend the night.
Third day: Międzyzdroje – Kolobrzeg, Velo Baltica, 93 km
We start the day with rain and leave Międzyzdroje via the boulevard and the Polish Walk of Fame. Soon we cycle into a beautiful forest again. This is the most beautiful stretch of the route. Shortly afterwards we turn onto the beautiful asphalt roads. We pass through a number of seaside resorts, and along this route the sea remains largely out of our sight. That is a shame.
Our stops make the route a bit more interesting. We take a look at an old church ruin by the sea and at a lighthouse in Niechorze. This is considered one of the most beautiful lighthouses in Poland. It is truly impressive: the tower actually stands on top of a beautiful, stately building. You can climb it, but here my fear of heights comes into play. I’ll leave that to others. We have lunch in a restaurant near the lighthouse and prepare for the rainy final part of our route.
Rain or not, we are still treated to a nice stretch of gravel through a beautiful forest. In the forest, the rain feels a lot less annoying than on the asphalt roads. Once we are back on the asphalt, we count down the last kilometers. Our prospect is a nice sauna and bubble bath in the hotel. Hotel Maxymilian. During the delicious 4-course dinner we quickly forgot about the wet day and we toast to a nice introduction to West Pomerania.
Is West Pomerania something for you?
What makes this region special is the combination of nature, culture, and the coast. You cycle through bird-rich areas, pass traces of Viking times, and roll through seaside resorts that evoke bygone times. The routes are very well signposted with numbers, so you can get started without gpx even if you don’t have a GPS. Most of the routes are flat and suitable for both gravel and trekking bikes.On this website You’ll find a huge amount of information about the different routes, including tips for cycling-friendly restaurants and hotels.
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.