The lady who serves breakfast to us in the morning hotel It’s a big group of Dutch people who suddenly want to have a bite to eat in the bar. It’s a bar that is mainly set up for a small ‘cafecito’, ‘cortado’ or a quick croissant. In rapid Spanish they make it clear to us that we need to choose something. Fruit, yogurt, toast, coffee, juice. And ‘ahora’. In the end, all sorts of dishes come out of the kitchen at a furious pace. The sandwiches with Serrano ham weren’t actually on the menu. Vale. We take it from them. Everyone is eager to try them, because today is a day of carbohydrate loading. There are almost 130 kilometers with 2600 meters of elevation gain ahead of us. A serious challenge, but one that everyone seems to be looking forward to. Cycling in Basque Country. This is Part 3. Also read Part 1 en part 2!
Photos: Ruben Hoogland and Sander Kolsloot. Text: Sander Kolsloot
We are in good company
The two slender figures of the Euskaltel men in the square reveal enough: they are made for this terrain and, as a local team (sponsored by Etxeondo), they are happy to be seen in the region. As soon as a similarly fit woman from the Laboral Kutxa team also makes her appearance, we know enough. We are in good company. Top chef Iñigo Lavado is also freshly washed and ready to go. This promises to be a beautiful day.
A big round
When the Vuelta stages a stage in the Basque Country, they often choose a route that resembles ours. Not surprisingly, because the beautiful hills (or are they mountains?) are at your feet. Names like Azpirotz, San Miguel and Lizarraga sound like music to the ears of many enthusiasts. On Azpirotz they once even staged a finish. Luigi Barral and Martin Piñera could have put their hands in the air here. We are talking about 87 and 61 years ago, respectively. In current times, this is just a warm-up for the real work of San Miguel de Aralar. For many, this is more recognizable with Fabio Aru turning Tom Dumoulin around here in 2014 and Richard Carapaz as recent winners. What does that mean for the ordinary soul? That it will hurt. As a gift, a very beautiful view over the valley awaits.
Grupetto Peio – ‘Grupeio’
The road starts to climb slightly uphill straight away. After just under 20 kilometers, the Azpirotz comes into view. I’m driving a little behind the group. Peio Goikoetxea, one of the older riders from Euskaltel, is also with me. Together with Flip, we form the ‘Grupetto Peio’, which is immediately dubbed Grupeio. What a wonderful company on an ascent of almost eight kilometers. Patxi from Etxeondo also joins us and later Haimar even comes down to help us. It’s a taste of what lies ahead in the longer and steeper San Miguel de Aralar. While we’re almost at the top, we drive through the green forests and suddenly we see a beautiful deer. Almost unique for this region. A nice side effect.
San Miguel with Grupeio
After an ultra-short descent, the San Miguel is at our feet. ‘Grupeio’ quickly forms and despite the steep climb it is an amazing experience. Own pace up, talking about training in the region, the course and meanwhile Peio tells us about the surroundings. It is steep and it’s no wonder that Annemiek van Vleuten has the QOM here. The climb is irregular and it changes between five percent with spikes of 13 (!) percent further on. The closer to the top the more the landscape opens up. The view to the right is amazing. While we take a short break before the top, we quickly manage to take a photo. Pure pleasure. After a short break we turn on the ascent to prepare for the descent. Haimar and Patxi warn us about the way down. ‘Easy, because it’s steep’.
Cycling in the Basque Country: The definition of a goat trail
When I think of the Vuelta, two things come to mind:
- The extreme heat on long, endless ‘oversteeketappes’. Straight roads, dry fields. Impossible to do
- Goat trails. Ascents with an increase of more than fifteen percent where the path up is more suitable for a herd of goats than for a round peloton.
The descent from San Miguel is one of those. It’s a goat trail. It goes steeply downhill and for a long time the gradient doesn’t come in the single digits. A road surface that seems to have been imported directly from Wallonia. What follows is a descent with clenched buttocks and with the wind. The characteristic wind that always seems to blow through this region. In the end, everyone safely reaches the foot of the climb. Massages are needed and mild neck cramps are guaranteed.
Lizarraga
With a view over the valley, the climb is well worth it. Our Grupetto Peio has grown a little bigger, and Daan has joined us. Ruben circles around us, while the rest tries to stay in the front group. Lizarraga is one of the best training climbs. It’s not too steep and, unlike the previous goat trail, it’s a real treat. As mentioned, the view is beautiful, and as you climb up, ‘Liza’ also spoils you with a few stunning hairpin bends. The two tunnels at the top provide a beautiful backdrop for a photo, and in the restaurant at the top the cortados are already ready. Because that’s Basque country too. After the sour comes the sweet!
Cycling on two flat tires
How lucky can you be? On the descent from Lizarraga, where the wind blows against my high wheels from all directions, I ride over a rock. I saw it too late to avoid it. After a quick check, I continue. I don’t know that I’m driving on two flat tires. I grasp the final climb. Supported by both Unai and Peio, we ride in a nice group up. It’s hard and close to the top, so I don’t keep the group together. We keep going, but when we’re still one kilometer away I start pedaling. In a bend I almost fall and Peio shouts ‘lekk!’ (leak). Above, the problem is quickly found. Flat tires, front and rear. With only 1.8 bar, I’m glad I got up there. I’m expertly helped. As a spectator, that’s also nice.
Windmills and bulls
The wind turbine park on the top of the mountain is working overtime. The wind is blowing strongly over the plains. Here you can make a difference in a stage. Or here you can take a big dip. The last climb leads us to the top, near the windmills and then towards Pamplona. Pamplona, home of Miguel Indurain and every year the scene of the bullfights. As everyone sets up in the narrow streets, the bulls are released every day at 8 p.m. Often it goes well, but sometimes men are caught. Upon entering the city, the saint looks on and the brave men and women are called out. A spectacle in itself. I watch the climb up the central square and the way the bulls take off from the car. End of stage. But what a day to cycle in Basque Country.
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.