Cycling in Izmir: Where east meets west

The İzmir region, on the west coast Turkey, is not a classic on your bucket list. Not yet. But you could easily change that after reading this story. If you go cycling in Izmir, think of: Mediterranean views, deserted roads, a wealth of history and freshly baked bread at every stop. Add a stage of the Tour of Türkiye and a route along the ancient Ephesus, and you know: this is no coincidence. Izmir is rightfully a cycling destination. One for both race cyclists, gravel riders and (as the Tour of Turkiye and L’etape Turkey show: you can race there!)

By: Sander Kolsloot

From Çeşme to the mass sprint in Karşıyaka

In early May 2025, the Tour of Türkiye arrived in Izmir. The final stage, a flat ride from Çeşme to Karşıyaka (a neighborhood in the city itself), was one for the sprinters. Matteo Malucelli won it, Wout Poels crowned himself as the winner. But the race passed by places that you can also ride. Beautiful roads, wide boulevards, and stretches of coast where you can wipe the sweat from your forehead with a sea breeze. Cycling in Izmir is truly for you.

EuroVelo with a twist: cycling between antiquity and the sea

The EuroVelo 8 route, also known as the Mediterranean Highway, winds its way through the province of Izmir. You travel along ancient cities like Pergamon and Ephesus. Not on busy four-lane roads, but on side roads and dykes. In Seferihisar, you can smell the sea; in Urla, you taste wine from the farmer; in Karaburun, you can walk into a fish restaurant right away. Route plan: start in Çeşme, along Alaçatı, via the cliffs of Ildır to the historic Teos, end in the old city of Izmir. Take off on this route and you’ll naturally connect between old and new asphalt.

I have also cycled part of this route myself, and it’s fantastic. Just make sure to bring the right bike and take into account the varying road conditions.

Cycling in Izmir: around Alacatì

Gravel in Turkey? Absolutely sure.

For those who think that Turkey is just asphalt and heat: think again. The region around Seferihisar and Gödence offers gravel of character. Pieces of 12%, Small roads between vineyards, occasionally a shepherd with goats. On the GoCyclingTurkiye platform you’ll find routes like Seferihisar-Gödence: 88 kilometers, 1,400 meters of elevation gain, partly gravel, partly mountain trail. You’ll pass thermal springs, reservoirs, forests, and finally arrive in a mountain village where time stands still. Pure, unpolished, and adventurous.

Izmir is both a destination and a culture

You literally drive through the World Heritage Site here. ruins of Ephesus (Ephesus) is world-famous: you can step into thousands of years of history here in just a few minutes. You can walk among the temples, baths, and Roman roads here. The price tag is serious, but you can also spend several hours at this historical site. The museum experience at the end, we would always recommend.

And yes, in between you eat baklava or you go for the local köfte. If there’s one thing you should try, it’s the local cuisine. It’s really good. Another local specialty is the Kumru. The name comes from the word ‘bird’ and the shape of the bread looks a lot like it. This is often eaten with (spicy) sausage and local cheese. You haven’t been to Izmir without trying a bite of this ‘street food’. It’s also known in the Netherlands. lahmacun, Also known as Turkish pizza. Because good food is a part of this region. Everything is local. Everything is fresh.

Where do you live?

Accommodation? Plenty. In Alaçatı you have Sakinev B&B. This is a beautiful place, where owner Birker has set up a bike spot with great attention and love. What’s more, it’s a place to truly relax. You can leave your bike there, you can have your bike maintained, or if you don’t have a bike with you, you can rent one. İzmir is starting to understand what cyclists need. We spent a few days there Swissotel Great Ephesus Dislocated. Definitely not your standard bike hotel, but it has all the luxury you could want. It's not necessarily Swiss precision, but it does have Turkish hospitality. With a swimming pool, massage rooms and a bike repair shop right on the doorstep.

Practical: how do you get there?

Adnan Menderes Airport (IZM) is located 18 kilometers from the center of Izmir and is accessible by direct flights from many European cities. Once you arrive at your hotel or B&B, you can rent a bike; if you haven’t brought your own, you can rent quality race bikes and gravel bikes. In Alacati, you have BikeHouse Alacati, linked to Sakinev B&B. Rental prices are lower than in Mallorca or Girona, and the service is often more personal.

Best time to travel?

Avoid the summer. July and August are hot and dry – and not in a pleasant way. March to June and September to November are ideal. T-shirt weather, dry roads, less traffic. In the spring everything is green, in the autumn it smells of ripe figs. It doesn’t get any better than that.

Five reasons to start cycling in Izmir now

1. The EuroVelo 8 along the Aegean coast
   The EuroVelo routes never disappoint. Follow the Aegean coast and you’ll see, alongside impressive cities like Izmir, the beautiful coastline (such as at Cesme) and the small villages where you can still see the real Turkey.
2. Gravel where you can say "no" to someone
   The routes around Seferihisar and Gödence give you some serious elevation and the quiet you are looking for. These are the places you go to Turkey to ride.
3. Course history in the making
   With the Tour of Turkey as its annual highlight and almost every finish point being close by, İzmir is on its way to becoming a fixture on the cycling calendar.
4. Local power feed
   From sweet tea to salty olives. The fresh bread (kumru) from the stone oven: leave those bars and cookies at home.
5. Culture
   Ephesus, Pergamon, Teos. The history is at your feet and the villages are all different. You find a lot of authenticity here. Some of the villages are tourist attractions, but then you turn left twice and you're back to what you came to Turkey for: real locals, real experiences.

Izmir is not yet a replacement for Girona, but that’s not necessary either. Cycling around Izmir is just different. I would even say that it’s more authentic. Here you’re not checked on your bike/outfit or what latte/espresso/flat white you drink and whether your cake looks better than the others. It’s a bit rougher. It definitely has the potential to become a top destination. You really just have to experience it. Before it is discovered by busloads of tourists and cyclists in matching outfits.