It’s radiant blue and tropical warm as I type this blog. How different that was a few weeks ago during the Fietselfstedentocht? What a folk festival for Friesland that should have been, turned into a mere walk-in for about 10,000 cyclists. It was pouring with rain, blowing fiercely and it was barely 15 degrees Celsius. Of the 15,000 participants, as many as 3,000 didn’t show up at the start. Another 2,000 walked off the route due to hypothermic symptoms. And with that it was According to the organization ‘one of the toughest cycling events ever’. The hell of ’22: the Fietselfstedentocht through the eyes of Nynke Cuperus.
It is 4:15 a.m. when the alarm goes off at the campsite in Oudemirdum. It has been raining hard all night. As a precaution, my boyfriend and I parked our tent in the caravan awning of my parents’ house. And that’s a good thing. When I step out of the tent, I see that exactly where our tent used to be, a mini pond has formed. Then I think of the rainy days when I cycled to Groningen as a schoolboy. I fought against the wind for about 12 kilometers and came home soaked and frustrated. The prospect of my day looking like that, but then covering 235 kilometers, makes me a little down.
Let’s do it!
And yet we decide to go for it! After all, an Elfstedenkruisje isn’t something you earn just like that. We get in the car and arrive in Bolsward around 05:30 – way too early – where the start is. We therefore stay in the car for a while longer and watch other participants. It’s a sad sight. They are already soaked before they even get on their bikes. I check the weather apps on my phone dozens of times and have good news: around 7 o’clock it looks like it’s going to rain and stay that way for the next few hours. What a blessing that we only start at 06:52!
Bolsward is still far away…
We leave with reasonable optimism for the start. It’s dry! Who knows, it might still be manageable today. But I couldn’t have said that better; because even before the starting signal sounds, things are about to get crazy and it barely stops raining the rest of the day… After 18 kilometers, we arrive in Harlingen. The first stamp post is waiting for us there. “18 kilometers and soaked,” I text to my cycling friends. “Bolsward – where the finish is also – is still far…”
The hell of the north
After Harlingen, things are going surprisingly well. The ‘Hel of the North’ – as the stretch between Franeker and Bartlehiem is called – is our best friend today. The strong wind is blowing us from city to city at breakneck speed. Before we know it, we’re already in Dokkum and the journey is over. There are still 158 kilometers to go!
But anyone who has ever cycled, skated or done anything else on the Elfstedentocht knows that it really only starts after a hundred kilometers. Today is no different. From Dokkum to Leeuwarden and onwards to Bolsward we are facing a strong headwind. My friend rides a mountain bike and catches a lot of wind. It is therefore difficult for him to keep up with a group of cyclists. What he had previously enjoyed in terms of pace is now gone forever. Then the rain doesn’t really start to fall at a normal rate either. The fun is really gone now…
Long live bad weather!
Are there still benefits to such bad weather? Absolutely! We notice that in many cities we only have to wait a few minutes in line for a stamp. That is very different from 2018. Especially in Holwerd and Leeuwarden, we had to wait almost an hour back then. What a difference! The Fietselfstedentocht consists of two loops. Besides starting and finishing in Bolsward, you also pass through Bolsward after about 135 kilometers. And when we get to that point, there is unfortunately still a long line in front of the stamp post. Because we had the heavy rain on our heads and a cold wind blowing past us, we are already soaked to the bone and cold. The minutes we then stop for the stamp post are therefore ‘killing’. We are grumbling and barely get our stamp card out of the pocket. And we realize that if we don’t get warmer soon, it’s not wise to continue cycling. Fortunately, after the stamp post, we get a warm soup. That makes us feel good. After that, we cycle really hard to warm up again. On to part two: the last 97 kilometers.
Welcoming Friesland
And those kilometers are really starting to add up. Where the fun in Leeuwarden was already starting to fade away, it is downright terrible now. But what stands out is the enthusiasm of the Friezes. Flags and banners are hanging in all the villages and towns. And although there may only be a handful of people – in every village and town there are Friezes encouraging us. Some people are having a drink with their whole family in the barn, others are drinking beer under a marquee in the front garden or even standing under a ‘pluutje’ by the roadside. And don’t forget all the volunteers who are repairing those bikes, regulating traffic, distributing food and stamping tickets. Unfortunately, it was impossible to take photos of all those people with so much rain and so many participants, but the enthusiasm and hospitality of the Friezes is so nice about this event.
Dry clothes and a warm snack
Another positive aspect of this trip is the thought that after about 190 kilometers of dry clothes and warm food await us at the campsite in Oudemirdum. We storm into the caravan, where my mother has already set the food on the table. Wraps have never tasted so delicious and dry clothes have never been so comfortable. Ten minutes later we leave the caravan just as quickly as we entered, but what a nice break this was! When we are on the bike, I even get a little warm again for a while. For as long as it lasts, because new storms are soon to break out again.
Take it easy along the IJsselmeer
We have another tough stage ahead of us; the wind is blowing full force along the IJsselmeer. The conditions are so dramatic that it’s not about how hard we go, but about finishing the race. Therefore, we stick together in a group that isn’t going too fast but is catching the wind for us. And that’s how we make it to the last cities. Off to the finish line!
One thing is certain: it will only get better
Cycling is fantastic, as any cycling enthusiast will surely know. But let’s be honest: 235 kilometers of pedaling in these conditions isn’t something you do for fun. When we arrive at the finish line, we get our badges as quickly as possible and jump into the car. On to a hot shower, food, and bed!
But don’t be put off by reading this blog. The Fietselfstedentocht is a fantastic event that isn’t about cycling as fast as possible, but about enjoying the experience. It won’t be this bad again soon, and I’m sure the next edition will still be a great festival with people barbecuing everywhere, dweilbands and liters of beer. Will I see you at the start?
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.