Nothing suggests that the man standing next to me once fought against Lance Armstrong and Jan Ullrich in a previous life. Haimar Zubeldia’s slender figure is less recognizable to many than others. Yet there are several top 5 finishes in the Tour de France on his record. That fact alone makes me approach him with some respect. We are in his home region, in Basque Country, Because Zarautz is located near our hotel in Gametxo, where the cradle of the little Haimar was located. Nowadays, Haimar is mainly active as an ambassador of Etxeondo, the high-quality Basque clothing brand. He’s not the worst thing, because before we even cycled a single meter, he’s already immortalized as a stand-in mechanic. Legend. In the coming days, we’ll keep you updated on our adventure in our ‘Dagboek Baskenland’. Enjoy!
Up and down
While the coastal roads in the Netherlands are mostly flat, the region around Gametxo and Ibarrangelu is actually not even a meter flat. The hotel, which is located a little higher up, has a nice view over the sea. Beautiful, of course, but it is already a small indication of what is to come. To warm up, we drive around the area. ‘Nothing special, 35 kilometers,’ says Wouter, our host for the day. Anyone who looks at the map of the region knows that that might be a bit of a stretch. From the start, it is straight up and down. The only 100 meters of flat ground are in villages like Lastarria and Ibarrangelu. It is almost constant climbing. It is waiting for that beautiful, winding descent. Somehow, the hidden under the Spanish flat asphalt.
Steep climb
We are still less than 10 kilometers into this reconnaissance ride, and the elevation rates are already in the double digits. After climbing to the top after three kilometers, a nice descent follows, which is also very nice on the asphalt. Despite the proximity to the coast, you feel like you are in a kind of tropical rainforest. Perhaps the random cut down trees contribute to this, as well as the humid heat. In my experience, this could also have been the case in Singapore or the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia. The landscape here is rugged, green but also influenced by the proximity to the sea. Special, so you could best describe it. Just like the pace that friend Haimar sets during the day. Chattering cheerfully, he pedals up. My tongue is on the handlebar. There must be a difference.
Lost orientation
Because of all the green trees, I can hardly see the forest anymore. That is to say, I have completely lost my sense of orientation. In my mind, we are driving in the interior, but when I look at the data on the Komoot after the ride, that is quite manageable. What is not so manageable is the continuous uphill rates on my Wahoo. That we are still going down after 27 kilometers is no small feat. That we are not even seven kilometers later have a climb with an average of seven to eight percent. Ouch, that was unexpected. The next few days are sure to bring more of these ‘unpleasant surprises’.
Final
The fact that the hotel is located at a higher point compared to the sea is an indication of the last kilometers. We went down with the group like a rocket at the beginning. We have to go up again now. The maximum of 13% on this last climb gives a nice sense of victory when I park the bike at the hotel. The sun has now fully come out. Perfect for taking some more beautiful photos along the coast. What a wonderful and sometimes painful introduction to the beautiful region of the Basque Country.
It’s a breeze
While everyone prepares to head out for the evening program after cycling, the wind really picks up. It brings with it a nice refreshing breeze, but also beautiful, dramatic images of the coastal city. Something to enjoy for a while, with a small snack in hand. Off to day 1 of our adventure in the Basque Country, because this was just the exploration. Are you following along with our Baskenland Diary?
- Baskenland Diary 2: Baskenland Diary Part 2: Playing in Haimar’s Backyard
- Baskenland Diary 3: Cycling in the Basque Country part 3: Tolosa – Pamplona
- Baskenland Diary 4: Baskenland diary part 4: wind in the back
- Baskenland Diary 5: Baskenland diary part 5: the land of wind and wine
- Baskenland Diary 6: Cycling in the Basque Country: that final day
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.