Bolzano is cycling. With this slogan, the bustling city in the province of South Tyrol wants to make itself stand out emphatically. In terms of location, you could hardly be in a better place. The Dolomites are literally at your feet and there is so much choice that you are almost lost at first glance. The city is also the home of the famous Giro Delle Dolomiti (GDD). Not to be confused with the Maratona Dles Dolomites, which departs from Alta Badia. The Giro Delle Dolomiti is a multi-day stage race, which amateur cyclists can participate in. In fact, you can also only cycle 1, 2 or 3 individual stages. All of them start and finish in Bolzano. Why you should cycle the Giro Delle Dolomiti, we explain to you!
Text and photos: Sander Kolsloot
Burbly city on the river
Bolzano (or Bozen) is a medium-sized city with just over 100,000 inhabitants. To many Dutch people, the city is known as ‘the gateway to the Dolomites’, ‘the first city in Italy on the way to Lake Garda’ and more of such epithets. In our opinion, these are very unfair. Because the city has everything to be a perfect base camp for your cycling holiday. In the morning you set off on your bike and after your bike ride you can enjoy everything this city has to offer.
Dolomite marathon
For the cyclists among us, Bolzano is first and foremost the city of the Giro Delle Dolomiti The Dolomites Marathon. This magnificent event is one of the reasons to cycle in South Tyrol. This cyclo stage consists of 6 different stages that are mostly cycled in groups. Including motorescorte, wild-gesturing Italian race director and well-maintained stops. In between there are timed segments that ultimately result in a ranking. There is a prize for the overall winner in various classifications and of course for the final winner. You can participate in all days or do some individual stages. In terms of organization, it certainly doesn’t compare to events like the Marathon.
Dolomites
Today we are cycling a beautiful stage to the Rosengarten. Some preliminary reconnaissance shows that there is a nice long climb, with a kind of intermediate plateau. You climb to almost 1700m altitude, where you have a stunning panorama over the surrounding Dolomites. The typical pointy mountains are a beautiful backdrop for the lunch stop. Then it is a leisurely descent before the hairpin bends of the Obergummer await us.
Good-for-the-people show
Everything is well organized at the start. The fair grounds of the Fiera offer plenty of space for everyone. You can have a cup of coffee in the morning and a typical Italian breakfast here. In addition, you can pick up your race number here; you can leave your bag behind that can also be used at the various stops (so you don’t have to lug around all those jackets and other stuff on your back). The only odd thing is the need to attach a race number. With the handlebar and a timer on your saddle, that seems a bit unnecessary.
Ready, set, go!
The start, today at 09:00, will be preceded by the short ceremony for the day’s winners and the presentation of some prominent figures. From then on, we will leave the city behind in a convoy, heading towards Prato Isarco and from there via the long route towards Tiers and on to the summit. It’s hot, even so early in the morning. The temperature will quickly reach the thirties and it’s therefore advisable to drink plenty of water. The atmosphere is relaxed and it’s nice not to have to give it your all right away. The support from the motorcycles is also pleasant; it ensures that you don’t have to worry that an Italian crazy person will suddenly come through on the inside if you’re not paying attention. Or that you’ll almost be pushed into the road by an oncoming rider who is coming in.
Longer, longer, the longest
From Prato Isarco the chosen climb is 25 kilometers long, with a long flat/sloping section in between. Over the entire climb it is at 5.6, but with 11.7% kilometers% and long stretches above 10 it is really not a walk in the park. The first seven kilometers go very well. I have ‘good legs’ today and can follow the lead of the group, which is 300 people strong. Soon you can see the valley clearly. On the other side of the valley you can see beautiful villages like Collalbo, known for the ski training camps. The vineyards that have nested themselves against the edges of the valley also create a beautiful picture. In the fall this looks especially beautiful with the autumn colors.
We swing up and as we get further away from the valley the view really changes. Just mountains and meadows all around us. Beautiful green, good asphalt. It’s really a pleasure to ride here. The climb isn’t too steep here either, which also helps with the enjoyment of cycling.
First stop
The climb is a total of 25km long, but it consists of two parts. After the first part, there is a gradual descent to the first stop. Here there is a water fountain, as in many Italian villages. Furthermore, sports nutrition and cookies are available. Great catering, even with the pieces of fruit that are available. Everyone gets refreshed after the first part of the climb. At some point, the competition committee calls for us to gather again for the second part. That is the more difficult part where timing is also factored in. Important for the men's and women's rankings. You can see that it does play a role, everyone is talking a little about their position. Not important to us, but nice to see.
Pain suffering, with a capital P.
When we are back behind the race director, we roll together to the start of the timing. As the car drives away and everyone is allowed to ‘go’, I suddenly realize why this part was chosen for the competition section. What. A. Hel. When you have just stood still for 15 minutes and you have to immediately start with 12% to 16% starters, then you are literally in the ‘Parcheggio’ as Renaat Schotte can so beautifully say. It’s not pretty to see, I head up and get overtaken on the left and right by fit old men. Painful.
Towards the top, the slope becomes a bit less steep and I can also look around a bit more. At almost 1800 meters, it is a beautiful sight. The typical Dolomite views make the pain forget for a moment. At the finish of this stretch, we are still loudly encouraged and then it is just a short stretch to the second stop. A spacious valley where various tents are set up with, among other things, apple strudel (winner!) and plenty of food and drink for everyone. Since it is very warm today, everyone is looking for shade anyway. Bushokjes and a few EZ-up tents provide relief.
Gummer
After a stop of about 30 minutes, the signal to gather again sounds. The course director is already hanging from the car window with his bell. Typical Italian, that does something to the atmosphere. After a controlled descent, where there are still idiots who do a super tuck in a group, we turn at a roundabout towards the ‘sprint’. A shorter timed section on the ascent of the Gummer. A beautiful winding road from Cardano. It’s a nice spot for photos. I leave the sprint section to others for now. I notice that I’m digesting the effort a little more difficult. I drive controlled up the hill and at the junction towards Obergummer we turn left towards the planetarium. Then it glides a little before we are grouped again in Cornedo.
Finish
After a beautiful long day on the bike, we roll back into Bolzano between 2pm and 3pm. At the finish, there is a run on the meal, which consists of beef with speckknödel. A local savory specialty that combined with the salad provides the much-needed calories. Everyone sits down on benches and reminisce about the day that has passed. A nice finale, so to speak.
Route of our stage
Impressed
I am impressed by this event. Everything seems super well organized. There are also multiple motorcycles and support vehicles with water, mechanical and medical assistance during the ride. No one is left to their own devices and thanks to the control and guidance you can really ride freely. Personally, I would like to descend a little less controlled, but given the cycling skills of many others, I think control is better :).
Practical
If you are going cycling in South Tyrol, you have several options. Bolzano is easily accessible by car, plane and train. You can also travel via Innsbruck with the Nightjet Go to Bolzano. If you get on the train at Utrecht Central at 8pm, you’ll be in the middle of Bolzano by 11:30 the next morning. You can even bring your bike along! By car, it’s a full day’s drive, again via Innsbruck and the Brenner Pass. If you want to fly, the best option is to fly to Verona and take the train from there. That takes about 2 hours.
Staying in the city
Bolzano has many hotels and apartments. You can also find plenty of beautiful places in the surrounding area. In the Hotel Scala Stiegl, With a swimming pool, storage space for your bike and a good breakfast, you'll be out of the city and on your way to the Dolomites. The hotel has its own bicycle storage room, a washroom and also routes. Cycling in South Tyrol is therefore very pleasant. The city itself also has plenty of entertainment to offer. Of course, Bolzano is the city of Ötzi, the ice man who was discovered in the mountains and displayed in the archaeological museum. A fantastic exhibition to visit. Ready to see Otzi? Have an aperitif on Piazza Walther, the hotspot for the locals, dine in one of the many beautiful restaurants, such as Löwengruben, Hotel Citta, Il Corso or at Italia & Amore for a real pasta experience.
Wine estate in the city
You can’t get around the wine culture in Bolzano. We were invited to visit Schmid Oberrautner. A magnificent wine estate with apartments, right in the middle of the city. On the branches there are still some beautiful ‘Lagrein’ grapes, alongside the ‘St Magdalener’ grape of the city. It is quite extraordinary that a city has not just one, but even two grape varieties. Many examples are truly associated with a region or a city. Soave, Valpolicella, Chianti.
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.