Ralph Ornelis went on a gravel adventure in the Abruzzi region on behalf of CyclingDestination. The region Abruzzo In Italy it is relatively unknown. Many of us stay for gravel in Italy in the well-known options like Tuscany, Veneto, Piedmont, Trentino. But the Abruzzo It gives you more possibilities, not only on the race bike but also on the gravel bike. Invited by Melanie van Villa Ferranti, it was a pleasure to be there. If you want to go that way too, keep reading!
Sun over the hills
The morning in Abruzzo doesn’t start with an alarm clock, but with light. Delicious sunshine, in the early spring. Also nice and warm, much warmer than in the Netherlands or Belgium. Imagine that you just step out of your room into a lovely hilly landscape. Further on you see the beautiful gravel paths, olive trees and a few vines. You can’t quite see them, but you can imagine them: villages clinging to the hills, as if they’re about to fall off. It’s wonderful days like this in Abruzzo, which begin and end at our base camp: Agriturismo Villa Ferranti. It’s a perfect start for ‘la dolce vita in bici’
Hidden
The villa is tucked away among rolling hills, between rows of olive trees. You know, that picture everyone dreams of. In the early morning, it’s even more traditional and quiet. Only the clinking of cups and the sounds of the first conversations of the early birds who are eager to go for a day of cycling. Breakfast is simple but exactly what is needed: fresh fruit, hot coffee, fruit juice, fresh eggs from our own chickens, and croissants. As it should be in Italy. The sun comes out and shines over the landscape, and you know that another day of gravel awaits.
Speaking of gravel, that’s the reason we’re here. We’ve had some great days together Abruzzo Trail, Along the highlights of this region. They are organizing an event in June, the MAGS Experience. We will drive along some parts of this route. This way we get a taste of the event already. The event itself is of course unique, so we can’t give a 100% review of it.
You could almost divide the routes into four parts. Sea, mountains, land, and the last part would be air. But for air, there would be another stretch of coast. Let me take you on a gravel trip through the Abruzzo!
Day 1 – The sea
The first kilometers feel like a wonderful introduction. We head towards Atri. Around Atri The gravel tracks wind their way through the interior towards the coast. It’s not a brutal climb day, but a nice rolling route: wide paths, interspersed with short, tough sections where you have to check your tires for grip. It can be a bit of a slog at times, but that’s part of Italy. When the sea appears at Pineto, The landscape opens up completely. It is beautiful there and the view of the Torre di Cerrano, that makes it complete. This is what you come to this region for.
After lunch we have another wonderful treat waiting for us. Civitella del Tronto. The climb up there is quite painful, but once you get to the top, it’s pure enjoyment in the beautiful town/fortress, built by the de Bourbon Parma family. Also further up, in Campli en Teramo, From there, it’s back to ‘basecamp’ to process the first impressions of this beautiful environment.
Day 2 – The mountains
The next day the decor changes. Direction L’Aquila, For many, especially those who were affected by the devastating earthquake a few years ago, the landscape is more rugged, quieter, and grander. The roads are less forgiving: here you find more loose stones, steeper stretches, and climbs, and beautiful views that take your breath away. That’s necessary.
It's gravel, but a bit rougher, less polished than the neat Tuscany, for example. Or the Champagne Gravel that everyone always talks about. Peltuinum Then you literally travel through history, while the wind has free rein over the open plains.
Anyone heading towards the Tirino Valley discovers a different Abruzzo: it is wider here, with a stream that meanders between the mountains on both sides. With greenery (at least in winter/spring) and a different feel than on day 1.
Day 3 – The country
Back in the hills around Montefino, cycling becomes different again. The roads here are genuinely ‘roads’. Smaller, more winding, as if they were built for us. Be careful of the cars here, though; you often hear them coming because they honk for a moment. That’s local custom throughout Italy.
In Arsita en Bisenti You also find authentic Italy and the authentic Abruzzo region here. The gravel here is playful and treacherous at the same time. A descent can seem spectacular, but is still technically ugly in the end. So sometimes too much enthusiasm is punished. Well, that’s what it is.
In Castiglione Messer Raimondo en Castilenti You find more cultural impact and it flows into the other one.
Day 4 – The coast of the trabocchi
The last ride brings it all together. The Trabocchi coast It is a place where nature and tradition meet. The wooden fishing structures stand out like almost works of art, albeit fragile, in the sea.
Along the bike path it feels like a party. After three days of cycling they still want to go on, but they still struggle a little bit. In Ortona You look out over the Adriatic Sea and realize how diverse this region is: from rugged mountains to beautiful coastlines, with villages that are almost deserted, to more bustle in the large town squares and in the places along the coast.
In short: gravel in the Abruzzi: four days of pure enjoyment!
Villa Ferranti – a special place
So we are staying in Agriturismo Villa Ferranti. What makes this place special is that you find real authenticity here. The rooms are comfortable but also functional, with views of the surroundings. It’s a real base camp, where you can also enjoy the pleasant climate in the evenings. Even when the weather is bad. There’s plenty of space then to relax and still make a great stay.
By the way, everything has been thought of for the cyclists as well. You will find here:
- A place to safely store your bike
- Maintenance area with some tools
- Washing machine for your clothes
- Food and drink for on the go
If you need a bicycle: that can also be arranged.
Abruzzo Trail MAGS experience
Do you want to explore the region in a different way? Then take a look at the activities of Abruzzo Trail. They are, among other things, the organizers of the bikepacking event Abruzzo Trail MAGS EXPERIENCE, That this year it will be held on June 19th and is already underway The seventh edition.
This is a bikepacking event with different routes, from 200km of gravel with 3500 meters of elevation gain to a 470km Explorer with 7600 meters of elevation gain. That can only mean beautiful days on the bike. The event starts on June 19th, you get the GPX routes and you can choose for yourself exactly when you start. The starting point for the MAGS Experience is in Rosetta degli Abruzzi, 40 minutes' drive from the house.
This is a so-called ‘unsupported event’, but along the route you will find places where you can get some food and drink, according to the ‘Abruzzo hospitalita’. That can only be a good thing. .
Direct surrounding area
The location is off the beaten path, but with a few car minutes you are in Montefino, perfect for a visit to the local pizzeria plus. Further up, more to the north you find Cellino Atanasio, another village where you can choose from a simple pizza and a tiramisu, to full-on Italian dining at a trattoria or Osteria. Where nonna still makes the meatballs and you’d rather stay there until the end of the day. Local wine included.
The two owners, Melanie and Bauke, are super friendly. Nothing is too much trouble. Incidentally, something had broken in my apartment the day before, and the very next day a solution had been found. Amazing, compliments to both of them. The swimming pool at the villa—did we mention that already? That’s a regular thing too.
It’s such a place where, as you stay longer, you feel more and more at home.
Practical – how do I get there?
The villa is wonderfully secluded, outside the village in the hills. That means you need your own transport to get there, or you arrange for someone to pick you up at the airport.
Airports nearby:
- Pescara (Abruzzo Airport) – with direct connection to Eindhoven – Weeze Airport and Brussels Charleroi
- Ancona (1.5h drive) with direct connection to Amsterdam and Brussels
Train/Public transport:
- From Milan (a logical point to start with) you can get there by train (Frecciarossa – high-speed train) in 6 hours Teramo, Getting to places nearby. A smart trip might then be:
- Night train to Zurich (departure around 21:00 from Utrecht) – transfer to the high-speed train to Milan. 12:00 arrival in Milan. Then at 12:50 the train towards Napoli, with a stopover in Giulianova direction Teramo. Arrived there at 18:50.
Car
By car, it’s a whopping 1.5 days of driving, covering over 1600 kilometers from Utrecht to Villa Ferranti and almost 1500km from Brussels to the ‘basecamp’.
Gravel routes – Abruzzo – Villa Ferranti
Below you will find some of the beautiful routes in the region that we have driven and explored.
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And Ralph discovered many beautiful things in Abruzzo. It’s nice that you stayed at Villa Ferranti as your base. And you rode quite a part of the wonderful Abruzzo Trail Mags Experience.