Belgium can rightly call itself a real cycling country. This is not just in the good facilities for cyclists when you cycle through the city of Antwerp or Brussels, but above all in the fact that the entire country is ‘on hold’ when the Spring classics are being raced. Today I hope to get a taste of this atmosphere during Liège-Bastogne-Liège, At least a part of it. We are driving part of this classic car to experience what the pros also experience in our own modest way.
Text & photos: Erwin & Erwin / Mountainhighchasers.com
Liège-Bastogne-Liège at a glance
- The oldest cycling classic, ‘La Doyenne’, since 1892. One of the five monuments of cycling.
- The 2027 pro race is on Sunday 25 April. The sportive for amateurs is traditionally held on the Saturday before.
- Famous climbs: La Redoute (with sections up to 14%), the Côte de Stockeu and the Roche-aux-Faucons.
- Character: the first kilometres around Liège are industrial; the best part is in the Ardennes around Spa, Stavelot and Houffalize.
Updated in October 2026 with the key facts and practical tips. The story below is our original article.
A special encounter
Early in the morning we get in the car. We drive silently through the hilly landscape towards Liège. The rain pounds against the window and the clouds grow darker. The closer we get to Liège, the more grumpy we get. The surroundings also don’t help with this. Where we were just driving through the beautiful landscape, we now drive past old industry and a dirty river. But honestly, we’re going to cycle from Liège to Bastenaken-Liège today. So keep your head up and get on the bike. With the usual cycling banter and encouraging jokes, we laugh as we get on the bike towards the start. We’re already wet from the rain, but we’re in the mood.
Enthusiastic at the start
Arriving at the start we get even more excited than usual…another Erwin recognizes an old friend. I have no idea and quietly follow him, only when he shakes hands with an older gentleman and says good morning to him with ‘Good morning, Mr. Merckx’ does my heart beat a little faster too. Perhaps the greatest rider of all time is here alone, without press, without cheering fans, just enjoying the cycling enthusiasts around him. I don’t see Mr. Messi doing that so soon.
After Mr. Merckx has taken a photo with us and the starting numbers have been confirmed, we get into the pedals and drive through a muddy Luik. From time to time we exchange a few words, but it’s mostly about finding the right mode in this weather. Once it’s wet, it’s wet, so what’s the point in dwelling on it.
Where industry turns into a playground
To be honest, we don’t get excited about the surroundings immediately (apart from the rain); the route remains somewhat confined within the city, where there are still many traces of the industry. The first coal mines were built here early on, and the landscape has not become any more beautiful since then.
The first 60 kilometers mostly involve long straight stretches towards the rolling landscape. In the end, everything changes and we can enjoy a real playground for cyclists. Strenuous short climbs and beautiful winding roads through the landscape of the Belgian Ardennes. It’s still Belgium though, so the road surface isn’t always as smooth.
The harsh judge
The climb we’ve been looking forward to is coming up, La Redoute! The road starts to climb and the sign along the route reveals that this must be La Redoute. We wanted to experience the atmosphere that this country brings with it during the spring classic today. Therefore, we hope to see hundreds of people along the side, a running devil and flags that remain attached to your handlebars just before you turn the corner. Unfortunately, none of this happened. The weather must have played a role here. Nevertheless, we still feel a bit of a pro. La Redoute is often a place where this classic is broken, the audience knows this and therefore wants to be in the front row. The result is rows of campers along the climb with waving flags on the roof.
The road surface is unrecognizable
The road surface is no longer recognizable due to all the encouragement that has been plastered on the asphalt. The Phillip Gilbert fan club made a day of it; Phil, Phil, Phil! To give the campers and the drivers something to cheer about, we are on the pedals. By now it is nearing 10% o’clock here. I join in the wheeling and we drive along the first campers. Soon I notice that this pace is too high and I let go. 100 kilometers in the rain won’t be comfortable in the ‘cold’ clothes, so it’s a matter of pushing! Besides Gilbert, I also see Mollema, Nibali, Van Aert and Evenepoel passing by. With a little imagination, I drive these men into a hole and free up other Erwin. I try to temporize and catch up with these men later; you have to do something.
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Higher, steeper, further
The ascent rates are not lying; it slowly approaches 14% and small streams of water run down the road. It is too narrow and steep for the campers here, so I now drive past the fences to climb up and occasionally catch up with fellow climbers. In the middle, the tension is off the charts; from 14%, it goes up to 7%, but soon the meter goes back to 14%. A slight movement on this climb doesn’t make it any easier.
Rintje, are you here?
As I struggle up the hill, I am startled by a rider who comes along with an emergency maneuver. I thought for a moment I might recognize the bear from Lemmer, a large blond man in an 1990s-era Aegon suit. It probably wasn’t him, but he’s moving up the hill at an impressive pace, especially when you consider that cyclists have to make the climb on foot. As I see the bear from Lemmer’s wheel quickly disappear from view, the arch appears on the horizon. The arch that marks the end of this climb—with a final effort, I roll under the arch where Erwin R. is waiting for me.
Descending
Without saying anything, our fists meet in a friendly manner and we descend the Redoute on the other side. Once we have recovered our breath, we discuss the climb and come to the conclusion that it is quite a tough one. One that looks very friendly from the outside but can actually surprise quite a bit in reality. Why didn’t I ask Eddy Merckx himself about this, if someone wasn’t surprised by the Redoute? But anyway, tonight with the book in hand on the sofa with our feet on the table.
History at its best
To be honest, it’s not the most beautiful environment to cycle in. If we were to draw a route through the Ardennes ourselves, we’d leave the ‘cities’ far to the left and stay in the impressive nature of what the Ardennes have to offer. Why then drive this route? It’s history; stories have been written and heroes have been made (or broken)! LBL, also known as ‘La Doyenne’ (the old lady), is one of the five cycling monuments, and that alone is reason enough to cycle this route once. Together with your cycling friends/friends, experience what it’s like to be able to cycle through ‘the cycling country’ par excellence as a pro. It’s the stories that make the experience beautiful and the experience richer. Therefore, we definitely consider it a ‘must do’!
Route Liège – Bastenaken – Liège 273
Questions about Liège-Bastogne-Liège
Do you have to ride the whole route?
No. If you want a taste without the full distance, ride a loop through the Ardennes with La Redoute and Stockeu from Spa or Stavelot.
When is the weather best?
Late April can still be cold and wet, as our story shows. For riding on your own, May to September is more pleasant.
More routes and bases in the Ardennes are on our destination page: Wallonia.
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.