When the alarm goes off at 07:15, I hear the birds chirping again. Peering out the window of the hotel, one thing immediately strikes me: there are clouds today. That can mean a lot of things in the mountains. Usually it means a bit of protection from the sun. Often it means rain. Very occasionally, it can also mean thunderstorms. A quick check in the local weather radar gives the answer. No rain. Nice. Then we can get back to it again. Because the program is just to die for. Cycling in Crans-MontanaLac des Dix or also known as Barrage de la Grand Dixence. A so-called dead end that leads in 25 kilometers to the base of the dam. With the climb back to the village of Crans on the agenda, this is also a real challenge. Read Here, by the way, part 1 from our trip to Crans-Montana.
Going down
Skidorp Crans-Montana is located at 1500 meters (or 1400 meters depending on who you ask) above sea level. One of the hallmarks of a stay in Crans-Montana is that you actually always go down first and only then go up again. From our base camp in the center, the Alaïa Lodge, The descent is fairly straight. This is quite important to remember: you almost always end up with a climb. Unless you are completely exhausted. Then you can take the bus or the funicular. If it works. In the bus you always have to reserve your bike. At your own risk. Our ride therefore starts again with a descent. This time over smaller paths through the vineyards. The percentages are not too generous there. 20% down a narrow strip. The barriers at the end near Sion were not in Komoot.
Grand Dixence
The Grand Dixence Dam, near Lac des Dix, is a very well-known dam and a somewhat lesser-known cycling climb. Constructed in 1929, it is an imposing sight. At 285 meters high and 700 meters long, it is incredible to think that this is a man-made structure. Especially considering the time in which it was built, it is an absolute masterpiece. It is the largest gravity dam in the world. I could devote an entire article to this dam, and there was even a film made about the construction earlier. Quite impressive all things considered. With that in mind, you will appreciate a structure like Grand Dixence even more.
Start calmly
When we have completed the descent, we are met by Erwin & Erwin. They did the descent by car. That also saves time on the way up. We head towards the start of the climb, which starts from a suburb of Sion. Komoot leads us over another stretch of Swiss countryside. The odometer hits over twenty percent and at the top of this nice warm-up we are roaring like post horses. Then we have to start again, as José de Cauwer always says. The first kilometers to Vex go on the usual provincial road. Not the prettiest route and certainly not the quietest. That has passed, because after the acid comes the sweet.
Swinging upwards
The climb to Grand Dixence is characterized primarily by its length, the division into two sections, and also by the altitude. The finish is above 2100 meters. The trick lies in the tail section of this climb. The final four kilometers present steep slopes that make you gasp. It is a work of art that is laid out in the hairpin bends, but one that you have to push through. On the road to it, the first part between Vex and Héremance is a beautiful stretch with curves and views over the valley. After Héremance, the back of the valley comes into view, and with it the imposing dam. We stopped briefly in the village to get together and refill our water bottles. So far, it has been a great experience.
Monster of a climb
The closer we get to the finish, the more clearly what a monster this climb really is becomes. After struggling for a while in relative flatness, the road starts to climb again rapidly. It’s an almost straight line, which only changes to a tangle of hairpin bends at four kilometers below the top. Make no mistake: this straight line goes up at an average of eight percent. Once at the hairpin bends, Wahoo starts to struggle seriously. He turns a deep red and I see numbers up to fifteen percent. For a few hundred meters, it doesn’t get below ten. It’s hard work, but in the meantime I still take a quick look at those beautiful hairpin bends. It’s a treat to take beautiful photos!
Thunderstorm
Finally, we reach the top. On the dam there is a possibility to go all the way to the top with the cable car. On a bike that is not possible, you end up at the bottom of the dam. We stay there too and sit on the terrace for a drink. Suddenly we hear some noise from the other side. Without noticing it, we were too busy climbing the dam to notice it. A cloud cover has formed above the valley. The dark clouds are ominous and the accompanying sound says enough. This means trouble. You have two choices: stay put or go back quickly. Ruben and I decide after emptying our glass to go back immediately. Erwin and Erwin stay a little longer on the dam and go to the top. In retrospect, both choices were equally good. The thunderstorm has passed.
Descent
The descent is pure pleasure. The first four kilometers are all about turning and turning, but because the sections are short, you don't have to go at a high speed and can descend technically well. The traffic is moderate and the turns are often clear. After four kilometers, you turn onto the long, clear section. From here, it's all about full throttle down. That's nice sometimes. Small nicks in the road surface, little to no traffic. Basically, you can completely immerse yourself in your own world. That's the icing on the cake of this climb. Although it's a dead end, it ranks high on the list of climbed climbs.
Natural surface
The closer to Hérémence, the wetter the road surface. The storm also brought some rain and apparently the sky opened up for a moment. Because of the heat, it also dries quickly. Fortunately, it is not a bumpy course. In the village we stop again to fill the water bottles and Ruben fixes his bike. The rim brakes have taken their best time and need to be turned over. We are in the shade, but every step in the sun is a strain on the body. It is very hot. The last stretch, via Vex and some beautiful hairpin bends, brings us back to the provincial road towards Sion. Once at the bottom, we cross the valley towards Sierre for the climb up.
Abandon
As I climb, I notice that I have some physical discomfort. It doesn’t go away and I can’t turn around properly to go up. I am glad when I reach the top. With the painful climb to Crans-Montana in mind, I take another look. Crossing the valley, I realize that it’s going to be a tough climb to drive another fifteen kilometers at an eight percent incline in the blazing sun. The decision is made. In Sierre, we stop at a local tent to have some food, and then I go up by motor. It’s not any different. Later, I realize that the climb for Ruben wasn’t easy either. That’s a small consolation. As I climb, I see a glimpse of my great friend Christ the Redeemer. I haven’t seen him all day. Next time, I’ll ask for help again.
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.