Liguria

Part of Italy

Liguria is the narrow strip of Italy between the French border and Tuscany, sandwiched between the Mediterranean Sea and the mountains. A coastline of palm trees, colorful fishing villages and seaside resorts, with behind it a rugged mountain landscape with quiet roads and endless hairpin bends. Here lies the finale of Milan-San Remo, here professionals train in the winter, and here you’ll find one of the best mountain biking trails in Europe.

Why cycle in Liguria?

• Sea and mountains. You start at the coast and within a quarter of an hour you are on a climb with a view over the sea.
• Classics. The Cipressa and the Poggio, the decisive slopes of Milan-San Remo, you just drive straight from San Remo.
• Mild climate. Even in winter, it is often 12 to 16 degrees on the Riviera. Therefore, many professional teams hold training camps here.
• Silent inland areas. Behind the busy coast lie valleys and passes where you hardly encounter cars.
• Italian food. Pesto alla genovese, focaccia and farinata: after a drive, you don't have to look too far.

The areas

The Riviera di Ponente. The western part, from Ventimiglia via San Remo and Imperia to Alassio and Finale Ligure. Here are the climbs of Milan-San Remo: the Capes along the coast, the Cipressa and the Poggio. In the hinterland there are passes such as the Colle di Nava and the Colle San Bartolomeo.

Final in Liguria. One of the most famous mountain biking destinations in Europe, with hundreds of kilometers of trails in the hills above the sea. You can also enjoy cycling on a mountain bike or gravel bike here.

Genoa and its surroundings. Around Genoa there are steep climbs to the Beigua massif and the Passo del Faiallo, with views over the Gulf of Genoa.

The Riviera di Levante. The eastern part, with Portofino, Sestri Levante and the Cinque Terre. Spectacular, but the coastal road is narrow and busy. Drive here early in the morning or outside the high season, and choose the roads through the hinterland.

You must not miss these climbs

• The Poggio. Short but legendary: the final climb of Milan-San Remo, with the descent to Via Roma.
• The Cipressa. A little longer, through olive groves, overlooking the coast.
• Colle di Nava. A long, peaceful climb from Imperia into the interior.
• Passo del Faiallo. Above Genoa, with the sea on one side and the Apennines on the other.

Riding Milan-San Remo

With almost 300 kilometers, Milan-San Remo is the longest classic of the season, and the final is in Liguria. After the Passo del Turchino, the peloton reaches the coast near Voltri and follows the Via Aurelia westwards. Then come the three Capi, short climbs over the hills: Capo Mele, Capo Cervo and Capo Berta. Then follow the Cipressa and the Poggio, and the descent to the finish in San Remo. From San Remo, you can easily ride the final yourself: drive along the coast eastwards and cycle over the Cipressa and the Poggio back.

Gravel and mountain bike

The hinterland of Liguria is full of old mule tracks, dirt roads and military roads, for example along the Alta Via dei Monti Liguri, a long route over the mountain pass above the coast. Finale Ligure is the mountain biking center of the region, with bike shops, shuttles and trails for every level. You’ll also find plenty of gravel bikes here: choose the quiet roads through the olive groves and the interior, and avoid the busy Via Aurelia.

Food and drink

Liguria is the birthplace of pesto alla genovese: basil, pine nuts, Parmigiano and olive oil. Try the focaccia, farinata (a thin pancake made from chickpea flour) and fresh fish in the ports. For on the go, buy a piece of focaccia from the baker. The wines of the Cinque Terre and the Riviera di Ponente are light and fresh, perfect after a hot day on the bike.

A week of cycling in Liguria

What would a bike week on the Riviera look like? Start in San Remo with a tour along the coast and the finale of Milan-San Remo. On the second day, head inland to the Colle di Nava and the mountain villages above Imperia. Midweek, move to Finale Ligure or Alassio, and combine an early morning climb with an afternoon beach day. Take a day train to Genoa for the city and the climb to the Beigua massif, and finish with an early ride along the coast of the Riviera di Levante before the tourists wake up. That way, in seven days you’ll see the sea, the classics, the mountains, and the villages without having to pack every day.

Your Cycling base

San Remo for the classics and the west, Alassio of Finale Ligure for a mix of coast and mountains, and Sestri Levante of Levanto If you want to explore the east and the Cinque Terre. In many seaside resorts, hotels are designed for cyclists, with a bicycle storage area and a breakfast that starts early.

When are you leaving?

Liguria is a destination all year round, except during the heart of summer. From October to May, the coast is mild and calm; in the mountains, however, it can be chilly. March, April and May are ideal. In July and August, it is hot and the coastal roads are busy with holiday traffic.

What to bring?

• Layers: It's warm on the coast; up on a pass it can be as much as ten degrees colder.
• A compact gearbox for the steep climbs in the hinterland.
• Lighting for the tunnels along the coast.

How do you get there?

Fly to Genoa or Nice; from Nice you are in San Remo in an hour. By train you travel via Paris and Nice or via Milan. By car it is about twelve hours from Utrecht via Switzerland or France.