Bicycle touring adventure in Switzerland

8 minutes to read

If you want to cycle a multi-day trip through the mountains and camp along the way, Switzerland A perfect destination. Switzerland has no fewer than nine national long-distance routes, divided into multiple stages. So if you’re planning to mountain bike in Switzerland, your adventure begins on the Website of Schweizmobil. With Schweizmobil and Komoot, you can plan the most beautiful cycling trips like this. With the Premium version of Komoot, you can easily plan multi-day trips, and you can also search for accommodation along the way. For my trip, I combined parts of the Rhine route 2 and Rhone route 1. Both routes are very well signposted along the way with road signs.

Kayaking as a starting point

My bikepacking adventure in Switzerland starts a stone’s throw from the Rheinschlucht, the Grand Canyon of Switzerland. Before I get on my heavily loaded gravel bike, we had a fantastic kayaking adventure here on the ‘white waters’ of the Rhine with a group of women. For two days, we sailed along the Rhine past high white rock walls and impressive stone formations. If you want to discover other sports alongside cycling, book an unforgettable wild water experience with Kanoschule Versam and ask for the Dutch guide Maud!

Magical camping in the Alpine Valley

The first stage of my bikepacking trip is a challenging and beautiful route of almost 50 kilometers and 1000 meters of elevation gain. I mostly cycle along the Rhine along beautiful gravel paths. The first kilometers along the river are largely in the shade of tall trees, and that’s not a bad thing with this summer heat. The route winds along the river and goes up and down before after about 30 kilometers the first really steep climb begins with sometimes gradients of between 10 and 12%. After a short descent, there’s first a killer climb to Disentis/Müster with even 14%, and then a long, gradual climb to Sedrun. From there, I cycle to one of the most beautiful campsites for my first overnight stay: camping Viva. The young owner is extremely friendly, the food and homemade cake are incredibly delicious, and the views are magical. I almost wish I could stay longer after just one night camping.

Climbing the mountain with luggage

After a cold night and a lot of condensation, I first patiently waited for the sun to warm up the valley and allow me to dry the tent. Then I packed everything back up to start on the next stage. Today there are two Alpine passes on the agenda, the Oberalppass and the Furkapass. But first things first, let’s tackle that first Alpine giant. Cycling in the mountains is of course serious business. Climbing mountains on a bike with full gear is truly next level. I’ve been doing a lot of sports all year and have even hired a trainer.

Cycling as art

But this is really an art. Finding a pace where you don’t overshoot the red line. Taking a breather every now and then. And not worrying about your speed at all. Slowly approaching the Oberalppass and starting the climb. Slurring hairpin turns. Not letting that steep section in the distance scare you. Getting your heart rate back under control after a fool in a car scared you with his horn. Being in the present and not thinking too much about how much longer, how many altitude meters still to go. And then you suddenly find yourself there. At 2044 meters altitude. On top of the Oberalppass. BAM. I’ve done it.

Ruth Koops of 't Jagt, Oberalppas — Pure pleasure: on top of the Oberalp

train, bikepacking Switzerland, train in Switzerland — Pure pleasure: on top of the Oberalp

Thunderstorms and your (unknown) limits

Once on the Oberalppass, where the Rhine springs forth, I am greeted kindly by three Dutch motorcyclists. I put the stamp of the Oberalppass on my wrist, pose by the lighthouse and then have a large piece of Swiss cake served to me. Meanwhile, the Dutch people are regularly checking their phones and in the distance, because thunderstorms are approaching. Dark, threatening clouds hang between the mountain peaks in the west.

I know: the next pass is actually waiting there. The famous Furkapass. Moreover, I know how many meters of altitude with all those heavy bags. And then, of course, in the pouring rain and with thunder and lightning. It was nice, I conclude. I don’t need to prove myself anymore. This is all already cool enough. After the cake, I say goodbye to the bikers and slowly descend to Andermatt. There I cycle to the station, and book a train ticket to Rickingen. In Rickingen I find a campsite with a dated caravan where I can stay for two nights. The next day, in fact, extremely heavy rain is also predicted. I pack up the tent, and while thick rain rumbles down the roof of the caravan, I smile contentedly. Sometimes your own limits (or lack thereof) are a lot braver than just going along with the flow.

Hiking in the mountains is also a sport

Once you get into the rhythm of moving every day, you don’t want to just read books with your legs up on a rest day. And although cycling in the rain isn’t my thing, I have less trouble with walking. So I put on a rain jacket and my Teva sandals and look for a nice hiking route from the campsite. Hiking in the mountains turns out to be a sport as well. I make a beautiful journey of over 11 kilometers with 560 meters of elevation gain, with the highest point at 1780 meters. Completely soaked and with blisters on my feet, I return to the campsite. Tired but satisfied. Tomorrow I can exchange the wheelchair for my steel rose.

Explorers in Binntall

At the advice of Lillie Rumpf (Cycling Heidi), the next day I cycle from Ritzingen to Brig and take the train and bus from Brig to Villars-sur-Olon, where the next day I will cycle without any pack for a day with Lillie. According to Lillie, the part from Brig is much less beautiful. Just before Steinmatten, the route suddenly sends me sharply off to the right, and an unpaved descent begins, of which you can seriously wonder if it is meant for cyclists. Even with my brakes on, walking and holding my breath, I reach the lowest point of this gorge. Here the route crosses a bridge over the wild-flowing Binna River. In this place, I really feel like an explorer on a bike. There is no one to be seen in the surrounding area; I am truly completely alone here. This place is truly breathtakingly beautiful.

Gravels with Cycling Heidi

At the invitation of Alpes Vaudoises, I get to swap the tent and sleeping mat for a lovely bed in Villars-sur-Olon for two nights. The heavy bags are off the bike for a day and I make a beautiful gravel tour with Cycling Heidi (Lillie Rumpf). We climb the Col de la Croix, among other things. You can read more about that tour here: Gravel in the Alps Vaudoises: a fantastic Swiss adventure.

Vineyards and Lake Geneva

Time for the final stage. I packed my bags again and loaded up my bike. This day begins with a descent from Villars-sur-Olon to Aigle, where I make a stop at the UCI World Cycling Centre. After that, I slowly leave the high mountains behind me and cycle through Lake Geneva and past beautiful vineyards to my final destination: Lausanne. From Lausanne, I then take the train to Basel, where I will spend one more night before returning home. That's it. My bike tour through Switzerland. Fewer kilometers, fewer altitude meters and less camping than I had originally planned. But no less impressive. I take the most beautiful places in my heart. And I am proud of myself. Especially in the moments when I dared to choose a little more comfort. Because the adventure still feels just as grand.

Travel overview: stages and accommodation