Anyone who goes cycling in Italy almost automatically thinks of the Dolomites, The Stelvio and Tuscany. But throughout Italy, thanks in part to the Appenines, there are wonderful stretches of cycling fun waiting for you. Because in Lombardy you can ride up high, for example at Lake Como. Or how about Piedmont? Or Emilia Romagna, which we all saw during the 2020 World Championships in Cycling. And so on. We were on holiday just east of Verona, where the Lessinia park is located (or in full: Regional Natural Park of Lessinia). Cycling in the Veneto is relatively unknown. This Parco Naturale Regionale Della Lessinia is one of them. A gem in our opinion.
Climbing in the shade
The national park is located in the Veneto region, about 30km north of Verona. The park is comparable in altitude to the Vosges. The highest peak, Rifugio San Giorgio, which we also rode up to, is at 1494m. Exactly what we like, because that way you can stay, especially in the hot summers, under the tree line. In this case, that also means that you can cycle relatively much in the shade. Absolutely a plus point.
Early departure
Since it can get very hot in the summer (as high as 36 degrees in the valley), we leave ‘early in the morning from Soave, our base camp. The road actually goes straight up, it gradually said. The first part of the ride offers stunning views right away because you drive surrounded by all kinds of vineyards. Not very surprising, because this area is known for its good white and red wines.
Just after the first village, Tramigna, you have the first mini challenge. A climb of about a kilometer, with three hairpin bends and a climb to 12%. And all within 10km of the start. After this treacherous climb, the road gradually slopes up for a while, with percentages of 2-4%. It’s fine to get used to it.
At Badia Calavena, after 23km, you have the option to turn left onto the SP36. This is a beautiful route with several hairpin bends, a kilometer of pain above 10% and beautiful views over the park. We chose to drive a little further north and turn left at the village of Bernardi. A great choice.
Slight climb, winding up to the next exit
This section is very quiet. It’s also quite narrow, but it’s completely in the shade thanks to the towering trees. As a result, you can see a little less of the surrounding area, but it’s definitely the first section of very good pavement. It’s a kind of ‘in-between climb’ where you’re also treated to a few beautiful hairpin bends. Be careful though; unlike the previous section, here you’ll encounter percentages of over 15%. So be sure to put in some effort!
Be careful, because on the last kilometer they forgot to properly pave the road surface. Sometimes there are potholes in the road where you could get really hurt. We therefore do not recommend taking this route as a descent. On top of this intermediate climb, you turn right towards the final destination: Rifugi di San Giorgio.
Beautiful landscape
After the village at the top of the climb, the landscape suddenly seems to ‘open up’ before you. Wide panoramic views of alpine meadows with mountain peaks behind. The other side offers a view of the valley far into the distance. Truly breathtaking. The road surface here is fantastic. It seems that the local Road Authority has just laid fresh asphalt here because it’s a patchwork of tiles.
The only drawback to this climb: you’re driving on the main road. There’s really no alternative, and on a busy weekend day that’s a drawback. So go early (like we did) or go on weekdays. Avoid the national holiday Ferragosto! Then the whole of Italy is sitting on the roadside barbecuing or on the mountain itself.
On the way to the hamlet of Rifugio di San Giorgio you will encounter several rest areas where you can stop for a refreshing cola. However, the most beautiful is at the Localita Conca dei papari, about 5km below the summit. You have a great view in all directions; there is ample parking and compared to the summit this is a winner. Also nice because the last few hundred meters to the top are steep to super steep!
Last pieces
After reaching the refuge, it's still a bit of a hike. It slopes, twists and turns, and only the last kilometer hurts a bit. What hurts even more is the sight of the eerily desolate ski resort at the top. This is a fading glory in miniature. Architecturally ugly, poorly maintained, and lifeless. Just stamp a sign in and speed off!
Passo Branchetto
The actual top is a little further from the village, but after that you descend in a nice, clear descent via Branchetto. It is obviously less crowded here, but you also drive on the main artery here. So be careful of stupid Italians who like to overtake you before a blind bend.
After a nice descent through various villages, where you can stop for lunch or a real Italian ‘Gelato’, you turn left again and take another nice piece of the Lessinia park. The provinciale 15 road is quite well paved and you still have to climb 7km. Of course, you can choose to descend only, but then you take a huge turn and drive the last stretch along the highway. Ain’t so funny.
Climbing more
The SP 15 offers beautiful hairpins and climbs up to about 380m in 6.5km. That’s an average of 5.7%. A nice climb, indeed! The views over the valley and the park are also excellent. At the top, there’s a nice long descent. You’ll mostly go through villages and along the provincial road here. But remember, if you follow the descent over the SP 16, you’ll have a valley on both sides to look at! That’s really very beautiful!
Just before the left turn towards Tregnago, you get the best view. Stop for a photo! From Tregnago, continue towards Soave, again through the vineyards. At the end of this beautiful ride, we sat on the terrace with beautiful memories and good stories. We have now earned that local Soave.
Soave and the castle
The town of Soave must have been of strategic importance in the Middle Ages. There is actually a thick medieval city wall surrounding it, which has remained intact. From a distance you can already see this picturesque villagio, thanks in part to the beautiful castle that stands above the town. castleIt is open to the public. You can walk up the wall from the town. It is steep and definitely quite hot in the summer. It is better to drive to the entrance.
Cycling in the Veneto is definitely worth it. After your ride through the Lessini Park, you can stop for a coffee (at Il Bugi), lunch, or to taste one of the delicious local wines. There are several ‘Cantini’ where you can drink the wine almost directly from the winemaker. Cantina del Castello is very well known.
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.