For those who think Denmark is boring, you are wrong. It may have a somewhat dusty image and a high ANWB rating, but nothing could be further from the truth. You won’t really encounter very lively towns, and you won’t find trendy coffee shops along the route. But for those who want to enjoy nature and the tranquility, this is a true haven. This is immediately confirmed after a quarter of an hour of cycling when we come across a chilled-out seal. Not literally, of course; in a small harbor (which serves as a backyard for some people) a seal is relaxing and enjoying the warm morning sun. With a little luck, you might see a big eagle in the backyard; here they do it with a seal. In the Herregårds route: cycling on Funen, we take you on a journey!
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Text: Andrea Lodder – Photos: Maks Groeneveld/Andrea Lodder – TEXT GOES FURTHER BELOW THE PHOTOS
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Onward to Helnæs
Today we are driving to a somewhat more southern place, right near the Helnæs peninsula. We wind our way through the harbors and farms into the interior of the country. The wind is favorable, so that already saves a lot of time. Today is a much steeper route than what it was yesterday. Actually, this is somewhat more in line with the image we had of Denmark. What also stands out is that we see many more castles and old buildings along the route. Now I also understand a bit more the name ‘Herregårdsruten’ or the ‘Herenhuizenroute’. On Fyn (Fyn) Most of the castles and old manor houses are here, no fewer than 123. More than anywhere else in the world. Denmark!
Lunch time!
Around lunchtime we drive into the village of Aarup. In search of a bakery. Because let’s be honest, the Danes know what’s good. The Denen special ‘Brunsviger’ is a treat you absolutely must not miss when you’re in Denmark. A large flat airy cinnamon cake, topped with a brown sugar syrup. Doesn’t sound too bad, right?! We would just say it’s ideal as a bike snack. By the local bakery ‘Brødkrummen’ we satisfy our hunger and enjoy the sunshine on a bench in the center. It’s nice to see that everyone knows each other here. It has a cozy atmosphere, the baker on the corner. People come and go and greet each other all friendly.
Stones in the castle
Yesterday and today we’ve had almost all the underfoot surfaces covered by the wheels. Except for some really good gravel roads. After passing the courtyard of the ‘Krengerup’ castle, we can also remove this from the list. This is the most impressive structure we’ve come across so far. Surrounded by outbuildings and farms, it’s a beautiful and striking sight. The nice thing is that the road through the courtyard is just used as a normal road. As if time has stopped here for a while.
Cars are also beautiful
On the way we pass the large car gallery Strøjer Collection. If you like beautiful bikes, beautiful cars often do the same thing to you. Here is a collection of cars that you just can’t resist. From old race cars to the Aston Martin from the James Bond film ‘Die Another Day’. If you want to go inside here, you’ll have to give them a call beforehand, but it definitely seems worth it!
Onward to the sea
After seeing all the tourist attractions, we cycle back towards the sea. Where we turn left at the town of Assens towards the Helnæs peninsula. A short stretch along the sea, and then a beautiful long stretch of asphalt road leads to the hotel. We spend the night here today. GL Brydegaard hotel. A converted farmhouse that almost looks like a fairytale. The driveway consists of, how could it be otherwise, a gravel path. A large white farmhouse with characteristic dark wooden beams. We get the cosiest room you could imagine, adjacent to a large dining room overlooking a meadow where a few Llewyn sheep are grazing. Lovely countryside.
Dinner is served
The dinner consists of small works of art made from beautiful local and fresh products. It seems that there are only three other people staying here besides us, so the chef has done more than his best with these wonderful dishes. Let’s toast to another beautiful day on horseback. Tomorrow is already the last day!
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I just get hungry from your culinary adventures.