The charming man in the blue shirt starts talking to me in an incomprehensible way. So, in cycling attire, I don’t immediately recognize him as señor Landa. Yes, the grandfather (!) of Mikel Landa has prepared himself for a ride on his bike this morning. From his enthusiastic story, I can just decipher that he says: ‘I don’t feel quite the same as usual, after last night’s wine.‘ That doesn’t bode well. The stage today runs through the vast countryside from Valtierra towards the Rioja region. 110 kilometers long with a strong side wind. The cramped figure of grandfather Landa will have a hard time with that. This is diary Baskenland part 5. You can find the other parts here (Part 1, part 2, part 3 en Part 4).
Text: Sander Kolsloot, photos: Ruben Hoogland // Sander Kolsloot
Ciderman
This morning the eyes are a bit smaller than usual. Whether that had something to do with the night before, we can only guess. One thing is certain: Haimar showed his best side as ‘Sidraman’ yesterday. The nickname of the residents from his region is also ‘sidreros’. There are complete competitions where (mainly men) compete against each other for the title ‘Sidrero of the Year’. It was nice to see Haimar enjoying his role. Furthermore, he is also very involved in today’s planning. It will be a long stage, so the instructions are clear: ride in a row, alternate braking, and enjoy the ride. Or is that also in my dictionary?.
Gale winds
There was no lie about the wind. We leave Valtierra behind and it feels like we’re in a wind tunnel. The agreement is to drive at the front for about ten minutes and then switch roles. That’s also necessary, because the wind force is definitely 5 Beaufort. I settle down in the group and let my group lead for the first hour. Meanwhile, the landscape is similar to the beautiful canyons you encounter in Arizona or New Mexico. You can also find this color palette of 50 shades of red in other southern European countries. It’s stunning to see, with the lazy white windmills the only dissonant element.
Coffee and wine
The wine flows plentifully on the terrace of La Galera in the village of Mendavia. It is around 11 o’clock on a typical Thursday morning. The men who have had a glass or two seem not to plan to stop there. A few of them are watching the group of cyclists in yellow/green attire. One of the men is reciting some incomprehensible texts. Another seems to be reading the newspaper from cover to cover. Literally in his case. The contrast is actually beautiful. The gathering of a group of sporty people who stop for a coffee, with the locals who here buy a glass of Rioja with a pintxo and thus live life to the fullest. This is why you want to visit this region, for these simple, beautiful things. The coffee seems to taste even better as a result.
La Rioja
There are a number of regions in the world that are undoubtedly associated with wine. In fact, they evoke a direct association with wine by name. Champagne, Burgundy, Bordeaux to name a few. La Rioja in the north of Spain is also such a region. The country is crossed by the Ebro River and as you get closer you see the so-called ‘rolling hills’, where the vines thrive so well. On the left and right are the ‘Bodega’s’ and wineries. The beautiful town of Laguardia appears before us, from where you have a great view over the vast surroundings. I feel like parking the bike immediately and immersing myself in the local grape wine. I have to wait a little longer.
Gruppetto Patxi – GrupPatxi
As the road gets ever more steep uphill, I have to let my predecessor go. Instantly, someone wants to give me a friendly nudge. From behind, the group sounds excited: ‘Grupo Tranquilo, por aquí!’ That’s Patxi Rodrigo. What a treat to have him around. A mood maker who also has the serious task of taking the Etxeondo brand further into the world. Together with Flip, we form the Gruppetto. Unfortunately, Peio isn’t with us this time, but GrupPatxi is doing great too. We ride together uphill and take a little more time to enjoy the surroundings. Because they’re beautiful.
Wine and more
The last few kilometers are again Basque flat terrain. It is about beautiful roads, where the space for cyclists is sometimes a bit cramped. A truck driver almost pulls us over. In five days this is the first motorist who behaves like a beast. We turn off the main road in Samaniega towards Eskuernaga, a beautiful medieval town. There lies Bodega Luis Cañas, Where a mix of warm bathwater and wonderful wine awaits us.
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.