When you go cycling in the Basque Country, one thing will always stand out. It is green here. Green usually means that it is raining. In the case of the region ‘Euskadi’, it often rains here. The weather can also change suddenly. At one moment you are in the shade, then in full sun before the wind picks up and a storm arrives. That is the charm of the region and it makes the surroundings beautiful to see. We set off on a journey through Haimar’s backyard, along the coast towards ‘Donostia’ before ending up in Tolosa. Here is the beating heart of Etxeondo.Today we are cycling in this beautiful region. This is Baskenland Diary Part 2.
Along the coast
A thin sunbeam is occasionally seen behind the cloud cover. The group of 15, dressed in green and yellow for this week, drives along smoothly. On the left is the sea, on the right a green deck of trees, bushes and a little further the hills and mountains of the Basque Country. At the front is the local hero Haimar. He knows the area, the climbs and is even extremely fit five years after his active career. If necessary, he could, in my opinion, get back on the bike so quickly. The terrain is once again not a meter flat. No wonder most Basque riders can get through the mountains well.
Cycling fans
The men who shout incomprehensible chants at us along the side of the road are especially enthusiastic. A group of riders, dressed the same, almost all with the same helmet. They must be really good, they must have thought. The further we ride along the nearly 130-kilometer-long route, the more often groups of older, but also younger Basques encourage us. Cycling is alive here. That is also evident during a race like Clasica San Sebastian. During the various climbs, many enthusiastic cycling fans are cheering on the riders. Of course, waving the characteristic Basque flag along the way.
Onward to Zarautz
Although the journey will end today in Tolosa, we will visit several places along the way that are of some significance. San Sebastian, mentioned earlier, is one of them. The other? Zarautz, a surfing paradise and also the home of Zubeldia. Zarautz is nowadays a place where house prices are above average and where the population (a total of 22,000+) triples in the summer. It has a beautiful but sometimes dark history. During the civil war of 1936, the village fell into the hands of the ruling regime. Reprisals mark a dark page in history. Nearly 40 years later, the independence movement ETA was responsible for several victims in the upscale seaside resort. The struggle for an independent Basque country is felt here.
Strong climbing
While the route initially features a wavy pattern, the road becomes increasingly steeper. The closer we get to Zarautz, the more often we have to get off the saddle to climb. Just after Deba comes the first challenge: the climb to Itziar. Nearly 5 kilometers up, at almost five percent. The legs still don’t feel like they should, but master mechanic (Aitor) van den Boogaard comes to the rescue. A tight pace and now even a good morale ensure a perfect arrival at the top. We continue and after a dozen kilometers I see the sign ‘Zarautz 7 km’. We are almost there. A turn to the left and with that the ascent of the road surface I hadn’t counted on. It’s the Meagas climb, again 4.5 kilometers with almost five percent average. The reward is a stunning view over the bay at Getaria. This is pure enjoyment
The route of Clasica San Sebastian
Earlier in the day, several cyclists joined us. Among others, Haimar’s girlfriend, ‘Abusman’ Borja, and also in Zarautz we have reinforcements. Florus, a Dutch friend, has cleared his schedule to ride towards Donostia. He lives in Zarautz and is familiar with the area already. That is the charm of cycling and of this trip. Everyone can join in and the atmosphere in the group and along the way is actually perfect. Speaking of roads: the Spanish National Highway Authority still has some work to do. When we reach the next village Orio from Zarautz, the beautiful Igeldo awaits us. The road surface is in good condition, but the climb is a real pain in the ass. It is irregular with percentages towards the ten percent. It is bumpy, but once we are above, the relatively long descent to San Sebastian awaits. The promised coffee still has to wait, but the view on the promenade makes up for it.
Warm welcome
Etxeondo is a real family business. Quality is more important here than speed. Paco, the owner, who is already ‘capable of pulling off anything Drees would do’, still runs around the offices in Tolosa. This is where the heart of Etxe – Ondo beats – which, loosely translated, could mean ‘close to home’. It feels that way too. It feels like coming home. Once we arrive after a still venomous climb and a bumpy road in the interior, a veritable reception committee is waiting for us. As soon as the initial hunger is satisfied with an extensive Basque buffet (‘anyone want wine, or cider?’), we head to the factory. All the clothes come from here to the customers. The average employee doesn’t work here for a year, but for a longer period. Details are important, but reliability perhaps even more so. It’s a beautiful piece of craftsmanship in the bicycle industry, where mass production and quick money often still dominate.
Finishing and beyond
With only five kilometers left, the day has flown by. The hotel, a warm bath and a good meal await us. It was a day full of impressions, but also a day that the average cyclist will certainly feel. The climbs, the winding coastal road and the lack of flat kilometers. That is Basque Country and that is also the beauty of the region. And what now? Another day tomorrow. On to Pamplona, to the roots of Miguel Indurain And to the city of the bulls. For now: Eskerrik Asko eta bihar arte!
Read also here: Baskenland Diary Part 1
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.