Looking for Ganna in Lombardy

Anyone who today mentions the name Ganna is immediately presented with images of a towering Italian force. The 1.94-meter-tall Filippo from the town of Verbania on Lake Maggiore is considered by many as the ’man to beat’. Filippo is the son of a former professional canoeist, Marco Ganna. With the Lake Maggiore and the nearby lake of Varese, a future in the water would have been logical. Not for Filippo. The surrounding terrain spoke to the still young Italian more. Terrain that is undulating, even along the water. With few flat meters, not even in the villages. Where you can also train on classic bikes next to the mountains. It is a breeding ground for great cyclists. A place where his namesake Luigi Ganna He made his kilometers. Where Alfredo Binda, the great Binda, is connected. A place you have to make a pilgrimage to. A pellegrinaggio: In search of Ganna in Lombardy. Well, on the edge of Piedmont en Lombardy, To be fair.

Text and photos: Sander Kolsloot

The first Giro

This story begins at a table in an office in Utrecht. A brainstorming session about a new name for a ‘creative agency’. Ganna, short and sweet, powerful in the literal sense, like Filippo. At that moment we were still unfamiliar with the magnificent masterpiece ‘Pellegrina‘From Lidewey from Noord. The book that, among other things, describes the sporting history of Luigi Ganna. ‘Who?’ I hear you thinking. In 1909 Luigi Ganna was the first winner of the Giro d’Italia. Luigi’s story reads like a boys’ book. A perseverer who pursued his dreams. Who, like many cyclists at the time, came from a working-class background. The bricklayer who felt at his very best in muddy conditions. What’s even more interesting is that he comes from Induno Olona, a village near Varese. The same region, the same surname, but no family. That’s intriguing, isn’t it?.

Luigi’s Sports Palace

In the Netherlands, we often get the reproach that we do not sufficiently honor our heroes. The comparison with other countries is quick and easy. Belgium still honors Sven Nijs and Eddy Merckx as superheroes. In Spain, Miguel Indurain still enjoys great respect, and Italy also honors the greats of cycling long after their deaths. Even in France, cycling heroes still have a street named after them. The Rue Maurice Garin honors the first Tour winner. As Luigi looks down from the sky on his hometown, he will probably swallow twice. The city, which is mostly known for its factories, is also the proud owner of the ‘Palestra Communale’ Luigi Ganna. It is a sports hall. The hall offers a rather bleak sight on a summer afternoon. There is little to no activity. No statue, or any other information. Is this the honor of a great champion?

Follow the signs

The name Ganna is connected to the region anyway, not only thanks to Filippo and Luigi, who are well-known names here. Anyone who wants to make the crossing between the birthplace of these two champions will inevitably see the signs ‘Valganna’ and ‘Ganna’. Is that coincidence? Probably not. In the Netherlands, we also know families who are called ‘Van Groningen’, ‘Van Amersfoort’ or even just ‘Amsterdam’. Geographically, it all fits together. The village of Ganna is not very impressive, with a bumpy dirt track marking the path to the church. It is also the start of the climb to Alpe Tedesco, the German Alps. A climb that Luigi may have climbed. Not on the brand-new asphalt that lies there, but still. A must-see as part of a pilgrimage.

Between beer and chocolate

In Induno Olona, where Luigi made his first steps, there are two factories. Is this also a coincidence? The scent of hops greets you quickly, but it is sometimes overshadowed by the scent of chocolate. Because the duo Lindt & Poretti is very common here. If you follow the Via Olona towards Varese, it is a beautiful hidden climb that, in terms of looks and feel, sometimes reminds of the Ardennes or Flanders. Upwards between the houses, with the scent of and the view of the industry. Not for nothing did Luigi Ganna excel when the conditions were tough. The worker in him came to the fore.

Route

The route has been created and takes you back to Laveno via the beautiful and important places. If you are there, the option to cross over to Verbania is tempting. Because Laveno itself is good enough, but Verbania is better. Throughout the route, cycling is the dominant feature. From the Madonna del Ciclismo to the communal gym. From the climbs and rolling landscape to a beautiful finish at Lake Maggiore. And if you are enthusiastic, combine it with the climb to Alpe Tedesco and drive on to Lake Lugano. Happy days.