Why you should cycle the Alpenbrevet in Switzerland

Seven thousand altitude meters, in two hundred seventy-six kilometers. In Switzerland You can then (finally) cycle through five mountain passes. On one day! But why would you? Because then you can add the ‘Platinum Alpenbrevet’ to your backpack? Nice, but a real why. Why should you cycle the Alpenbrevet in Switzerland?

Text and photos: Erwin Reijneveld

Alpenbrevet – what an idea

There wasn’t much time between the idea and setting it as a goal. Less than recording the past rules. With the same speed, your life can suddenly look different. You hear it, or everyone else hears it except you… Both non-fiction scenarios were shown close to this year. It turned out to be a breeding ground for a cliché at any rate. You know it, so I won’t mention it.

Once extreme long through the high mountains. Once crazy. The Ötztaler, Tour Des Stations or whether Alpenbrevet. Too many providers facilitating such madness. For years they sometimes just float through my mind, to quickly leave again. But now the Alpenbrevet made an extra round just in my head. I’m trained, looking for a new challenge after the summer and don’t need to train very much extra… Too late, I’m already bidding on Marktplaats. Bingo already that same evening! This year I’ll ride the Platin distance!

Three hundred and seventy-one

A summer vacation with rides in the Jura, Alps and Vogezen. And yet my ‘Join score’ (formerly the even more elusive ‘condition’) without mercy. After returning home and the holiday season, there is still three weeks left until September 2, 06:15 a.m. Andermatt. So I make as many cycling hours as possible. With a record of 307 kilometers from home to Maastricht, including a detour through Belgium. I ate my handlebar bag and the route includes just under 1800 meters of elevation gain. Back with the train to Utrecht, sweaty and satisfied. Or the day when two children's parties had to be organized, and I started with four-hour training at half past seven in the morning.

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Packing up and leaving

Work done, dinner on and families sent off. It’s Thursday evening and the three of us are leaving for the mountains. Training plans versus work, avoided or caught colds, material stress—every aspect of the preparations is a done deal. Only the preparation remains. Once that’s done, we’ll reach the finish line. Motel Drei König Near Stuttgart. Not for nothing is this called ‘the transit hotel’. Fill in the details yourself.

Koffierit

We sleep there, plunder the breakfast buffet and quickly head to Switzerland. Just after lunch time, the carrier’s bikes set off for ‘De Koffierit’. A feeling that never gets tired. Yesterday in the office, today cycling in the high mountains. 25 kilometers (of hiking) watching birds and doing as little as possible to strain the muscles, with the eponymous drink of this phenomenon as the finale; the coffee. Preferably enjoyed on a sunny terrace, where you’re in lycra and with your cute sunglasses looking out over a square and your bike overlooking the picturesque surroundings. Pure luck.

And then the focus suddenly kicks in. In the traffic to Andermatt, getting the start number and later arriving at the apartment than was previously desired. Fluffing up the pasta and getting everything ready for tomorrow. A palpable tension. The alarm clock goes off telling us that we want to hear from the thing at 4:15 tomorrow morning. We go to bed full of anticipation. Every hour of sleep is taken away.

Showtime

The night was short; the day is getting longer. Barley porridge and coffee are brewing for us. With a water bottle next to it, because you have to start hydrating right away. The focus that had been lost has not gone away. The conversations are for later. After that, we motor on through the Gotthard Pass in the dark. No one is still on their feet; only cyclists. They gather together in yellow jerseys and waving flashlights at the temporary parking lot. Storing everything you need and heading towards the start. Many of them are using the mobile toilets. They are called ‘Toi Toi’ here. Indeed! Put it on.  

Süstenpas

My fellow travelers start at 6:00 a.m., I can start a quarter of an hour later. The eight degrees above zero stimulate the desire to start. That happens with a descending line and a strip of flashing lights towards the foot of the Süstenpas. With the first vertical meters, the first jackets come off as well. My power is planned to be around 220 watts. There has to be a factor deducted due to the altitude (that’s what I was told yesterday), but already I am being passed by a lot. Mostly by honking people. It’s always the same thing, holding on is an art.  

Beeping sounds

I hear the soft squeak that has been coming from my front wheel since yesterday. Where is that marmot, some of you might be thinking, as they ride over the mountain pass near me. The wheels have had a service last week. The equipment needs to be in order in time to prevent material stress. A form of stress came a few days earlier: “With this bike, you really can’t ride,” said my bike mechanic, who then listened to my despair and let everything fall to the ground to replace the chainrings and thus save my upcoming challenge. Kudos!). Now it’s just the squeak in the front wheel, so I’ll have to accept it.  

The road climbs upwards, almost endlessly straight ahead. To make a convincing move to the left at an altitude of about 1900 meters, I see the road being filled with others. The moon is still visible. A first flank of the Susten is highlighted in the sunlight. Higher up, the snow is visible. The air is tight and increasingly bluer. The beauty is overwhelming.  

Grimsel Pass

A quick and beautiful descent towards the next obstacle, the Grimsel Pass. But first I have to get to the supply point. Although it’s not a cyclo, I fall into old habits. I stop the bike, dump the waste and pee, grab new supplies of hay and get back on the road. Let’s be quiet, man. Even more so because of the annoying dizziness. Is it the altitude, or have I just eaten too many carbohydrates in too short a time? Whatever it is, this doesn’t feel pleasant. And at this stage of the day, everything still has to happen naturally. Suddenly the thought enters my mind of what it would be like to get the unfinished business back to Andermatt. A thought as rare as it is bad, damn! I decide to go on a hunger strike. 

A while later it seems to work and I start adding carbohydrates again. The balancing has begun. Through a beautiful gravel bike path we bypass the tunnel. Then we start riding in the full sun, which will be a factor today! I put the bike aside and start applying sunscreen from the travel pot I brought along. What my mother will be proud of. Back on the bike, I wave to the people who just passed by while I was applying sunscreen. Erwin, it’s not a cyclo! I’m starting to feel good, maybe even mildly euphoric. This feeling hasn’t been there today. The last five kilometers up are going by automatically. It’s beautiful here. I’m not taking a photo of it, believe me just go with it. I’ll see! 

Stunning descent

The descent from the Grimsel Pass is actually even more beautiful. With a gracefully draped ribbon of spiral turns, the imposing Rhonegletsjer and the Furkapass. I’m even considering taking a photo. Further down the descent I pass two familiar opponents. My travel gear is in good shape as I climb towards the Furka. With my nose towards Ulrichen the next white giant becomes visible; the Weisshorn (4500m). Can you really get tired in this beauty?  

Through the very busy supply route (excuse me, extremely kind Swiss volunteer; I will definitely put my bike down here), I quickly got back on the road. To then stop by the fallen railway trees. Together with the roaring tour bus from just now and the endless number of traffic lights (to which everyone obeyed!) for today’s roadworks, this is also something that can be done. After all, it’s not exactly...  

Nufenenpas

It's going up again. The Nufenenpas is the mountain of choice. Today I'm taking a gelat from the supply for the first time. It's an unknown gelat. But what could go wrong with that? Nothing, it seems. On the contrary, this is a blissful gelat. Still, I'll take a look at the ingredients list; ah, there's fat in it. I'm doing fine up here. Only up here will I dare to look at the remaining altitude meters, because then I'll be halfway there. Just before the top, I turn my back and throw the windstopper over it. A few dozen people applaud the group that I'm part of, and I dare to admit a little respect for them.   

Then the descent I was looking forward to, 60 kilometers to the uphill section. A descent that begins with a view of a frozen pond just below me. As I look at it, the traditional overtaking maneuver of a faster rider comes along. It’s always there, usually one, sometimes two, rarely three. I don’t descend like a wimp, but I leave the big risks to the enthusiasts. The quick descent turns into a very slow downhill trail. I try to keep up the pace and I pass the haystack where I hid a bag of gelatos this morning. Because the gelatos I got are so tasty, I leave the bag where it is. Stupid!

Fast men

From behind comes a group of fast men (a regular occurrence in cyclos, even if it’s not a cyclo). The group’s bike has a unique approach. Every rider who gets a head start gets high fives and a bunch of compliments from this ‘Pas Normal Studio rider’. He is, of course, on a thick S-Works. A highly represented combination today. I try to keep my mustache under control, but I’m not suited for that. Meanwhile, I also get high fives and compliments. Meanwhile, I’m slowly getting roasted (of course, it’s not 60 kilometers downhill as stated in the brochure) in the oven between Airolo and Biasca. Yet the kilometers fly by in this group.  

First aid

With the first sprint, the group comes to an end. A ‘non-S-Works rider’ leaves, I get back to my old rhythm and no one takes over. However, I stop a moment later to take a second sip of sunscreen. I burn enough today; the skin doesn’t have to be solid. The drinking bottles are empty and in need of knowledge, I ask two men for the next supply. Still twelve kilometers to go. But a few kilometers down the road, the ‘PNS boys’ stop at a sudden oasis. Ice-cold water from a natural spring with a small basin in front of it. Everyone dips into this coolness. A bottle of ice-cold water goes over my back in portions for the coming kilometers.

For the much-needed supply, I take cola, Swiss chocolate biscuits and still the lollies. Yet again. Because the magic of the first one has long since faded. Friend, what should I do with that fat, my stomach seems clearly trying to tell me. I answer with cola at every opportunity. Furthermore, I keep tormenting my stomach, because I’ll need carbohydrates to get back to Andermatt.  

Lukmanier Pass

Two more mountains to go. Four times sixty minutes of cycling are considered ‘just four more hours’ in my head. I share this message with the ‘Silbermannen’, who will be here soon. Just like earlier in the day, I also send a short message to my wife and mother. The reactions appear on my Garmin, including an encouragement from my daughter. Recently I have become an expert in mountain biking.

Fortunately, this climb is mostly in the shade. The breathtaking Switzerland didn’t do quite as well here either, with a valley full of thirteen in a dozen that is now behind me. But here on the Lukmanier Pass, the beauty returns. The wide roads with fast cars and motorcycles around Grimsel, Furka and Nufenen are not a problem here. The remaining elevation meters are going at a leisurely pace. Although, rest. Weird how peace can come from a few words. After all, it’s still noise. Stopping to eat the gelatos we’ve gotten starts to pay off. I feel better, although the lump in my stomach remains. Then the top, from the tunnel I can’t assess whether it’s a beautiful one.  

Now I'm descending towards the last supply point. Along the way, my two fellow travelers suddenly appear; fantastic! The support makes me feel good. They don't have to do this, but they still do it. It gives me the opportunity to throw out all the crap I've gotten and get my own ice lollies at the supply point. Later, I throw my armbands, second bottle, and lamp into the brand-new convoy. Luxury!  

Oberalppas

With the Oberalppas the final obstacle begins. The sun slowly shifts to evening mode, with a beautiful glow. A sign in the ditch tells me that this is the last gas station before Andermatt. 21 kilometers to go. I’m already getting a little high. Heated up by the lead car, I let the power run wild and climb up this delightful climb smoothly. With the top, the euphoria comes… Food, drink and no more need to go up the hill; gravity is enough to get me to the finish line.

The remaining eleven kilometers would not be noteworthy in their original condition. Now they are of rare beauty. The emotional touch of almost 268 kilometers of cycling makes the difference. The thought of giving up on climb two was a bad thought; now Andermatt stands before the personal victory. It is here that applause is heard in the streets.  

Finish

I'm coming over the finish line. The speaker announces my name. As a finisher of the Platintour. My name, just now and soon again just an unknown name. The accompanying man sits down on the saddle. Nothing more for a moment. Just absorbing all the feelings. A harvest time after cycling for 12 hours through a postcard.  

ROUTE ALPENBREVET PLATIN