We previously published the highlights of the trip Thomas made with Rose, travelling from the Ghisallo to the Gavia. This is part three of that beautiful report, which includes the cycling route over the Bernina Pass, just across the border in Switzerland. One of those that is on many bucket lists, yet is not in the itinerary. So enjoy another piece of inspiration with routes in Lombardy and a bit of Graubunden in Switzerland!
Text and photo: Thomas Bogaard - Read parts 1 and 2 below!
Stage 5a and 5b: Climbing with tears in my eyes
Today, thankfully, the weather is nice, as we are in Tirano for two days, some decide on a rest day. With yesterday still fresh in their minds. We join a coffee ride. Just 20 km there and back. We are back in time for a small lunch, where I decide: two half rest days in a row? That's not for me!
I grab Komoot and create a route to the top of the Mortirolo, skipping the standard climb. Right out of Tirano it goes straight up, not going below 10% for the next few kilometres. But the climb through the forest is beautiful and just before the summit I can see the village where I started in the valley.
I continue up a ridge and meander through a constantly changing landscape to the Mortirolo. Meanwhile, it has warmed up considerably and I fill my water bottle, take a photo and descend.
After another short climb, I arrive in Tirano. There I see part of the group. “We're going to get gelato! Are you coming?” I order the biggest cone they have, there must be 5 flavours in it. I am wrecked and can't get past 4, the lady behind the counter gets it after the word Mortirolo and scoops the cone completely full.
In the sunshine, I recount my adventures.
For dinner, we decide to walk to the old village. This really comes highly recommended! Small streets with old and new Vespas and, not unimportantly, terraces and small bakeries. I score some more small pastries, because during a recovery run like this you need to take good care of yourself.
Stage 6: Cruising up the Bernina Pass
We leave Tirano and Italy and almost immediately enter Switzerland. Also, as soon as we leave the village, it's climbing time! Today we have something in store for us, starting with the Bernina pass. What a climb! Constantly you are blown away by the views, nowhere does it disappoint.
Besides, it is great to ride alongside the Bernina Express, with “lazy tourists” cheering you on on the way up. Once at the top, we descend briefly to the plateau. At 1700 metres, we feast our eyes and drive on to St Moritz.
It's not warm, shorts are just fine and the clouds blow beautifully over the ridges. Only this does not bode well, a crosswind now means full wind against towards Maloja. I drink and eat well and know one thing: two things await me. A beautiful descent over the Maloja pass and sunshine in the valley.
After scrambling up the Bernina, I crank it again. The view motivates me and the fact that nobody wants to take over even more. This is secretly enjoyable! The lakes at altitude, in which you can see the clouds and the mountains twice. This is what we climbed for this morning.
The start of the descent is marred by two cement trucks. We decide to wait a while and let go of the stream of cars following the trucks. After this, with almost no traffic around us, we descend into the sunshine and warmth over the beautiful Swiss roads. Someday I will come back for this climb!
We cross the border again and arrive in Chiavenna. A not very exciting village. No matter, we are up. Today is shower, eat and recharge for the last day.
Stage 7: Everything and everyone to the Philistines
It is with a little wistfulness that I get on my bike today. The last day... We start tame and flat, but no less beautiful. A spur of Lake Como offers us a beautiful route. We chat a bit about the past week and the one climb ahead of us.
From Menaggio, we cross over to the other side of the lake and our finish. Arriving in Carlazzo, we get a surprise: we have a choice. Straight home, or into the hinterland and mountains once more. The climb to San Nazzaro Val Cavargna is an option. I can't resist nature's call and choose the latter! One more time all out!
After a week of climbing, I start the climb in good spirits, which takes us uphill with several small descents. And the devil is in the tail. We start quietly but after each descent the percentages get higher again. We end with long stretches of 10% to continue to the main prize, a few kilometres where it doesn't go below 15%. All to the Philistines!
Once at the top, we wait for each other, no one really says anything, more loose fragments. Until someone says: come we descend, the pizza at the lake is waiting! We drive down beautifully and find a pizzeria by the water.
In the conversation that follows, the climbs of the past week get higher, longer and heavier by the minute. This trend continues during dinner. We eat, drink and laugh a lot! Because what a fat week this was!
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