The church in the village of Val d'Illiez beats every hour. Basically like any church in the world. Yet there is something different here. This church in the Dents du Midi region in Valais is a building that could go straight into a scrapbook about Switzerland. On one side runs the road between Monthey and Champéry. On the other side the railway line (also from Monthey to Champéry) and next to it the valley. As a background the magnificent Alpine peaks, the Dents du midi. When the church bells are not ringing you only hear the sound of Swiss cow bells. The word idyllic may have been invented here. As is the fact that the landscape is almost overwhelming. You really experience the beauty of pure nature. Cycling in Region Dents du Midi. Why this should be your next cycling adventure, read below.
The Tour is coming
As we drive the car towards the Peanut Lodge (our hotel) in Val d'Illiez, we immediately notice something. Next July (2022), the Tour is coming to the region. The climb to Morgins is the penultimate hurdle on the way to the finish in Chatel, just across the border in France. That the region takes the Tour seriously is shown by the banner at the start of the climb in Monthey. A strava challenge starts here, all the way to the summit in Morgins. Several yellow items can also be found in Monthey. The tour is coming and everyone can know it.
At Steve Morabito's garden
Former Swiss champion. First adjutant to Thibaut Pinot at Francaise des Jeux and Cadel Evans at BMC. Nowadays active with his company as an ambassador for cycling in Valais and as a consultant for cycle tourism and cycle racing. The name Steve Morabito is known everywhere in Valais (and Switzerland). As a professional, Morabito was a very good climber. That he was born in Monthey, at the gate of the Dents du Midi probably helped. His backyard is a great place to play, with beautiful but also painful climbs. Morabito's stamp is clearly visible, as you find Velo Valais signage everywhere. So you immediately see the steepness and length of (part of) a climb and know where you are cycling. Anything to encourage cycling.
Into the woods
The route we ride through the region starts in Val d'Iliez, but is basically a round trip past a number of highlights. You can start the route from various points, including Champéry or Monthey. As we will be looking for the border with France, via the Pas de Morgins, the route starts with a quick, clear descent. The valley is on the right and it's nice and easy to steer. We do have to hit the anchors full on to avoid missing the turn-off to Morgins. Unlike the tour peloton, we first ride the climb via a shortcut. A somewhat narrower, well-wooded route appropriately called Route Forestière. The forest road, in other words. The climb is quite steep, with an average first section of almost nine per cent. After the short descent, it is quite a shock to your entire system.
Across the border
The tour pros will start the climb from Monthey. On a new tarmac road, they ride up to the ski village of Morgins. We arrive just over halfway up the same climb, which we later descend. The steepest part is over by then. Now it's mainly a wide road, which heads through the village towards France via a roundabout. About 500 metres before the summit, another banner hangs over the road. This is the end of the climbing segment from Monthey. After that, it is more or less flat until the real summit. This is on the border with France, with Haute Savoie. The views there are stunning, both to the Swiss and French sides. The climb on the French side is a lot gentler in terms of ascent. You can also make the combo by adding a climb to the Col de Bassachaux. A nice variation.
New asphalt
The descent back to Morgins and on to Monthey is one for the gourmets. The climb is long, the road is like a billiard cloth so tight and it's a case of hands in the stirrups and go! The first part of the descent is relatively straight and the closer to Monthey, the more technical and twisty it gets. So plenty of room for great content, but above all for a wonderful feeling of speed and control. You do have to watch out for traffic, especially when you are almost in town. But as a descent, this one is a winner. As a climb, it is over 16 kilometres with an average gradient of almost six per cent. The difference will be made in the beginning, with long tougher sections up to ten per cent rise. After a tough day in the adjacent Alpes Vaudoises, it will be a feast here.
Through the valley
After crossing Monthey, we have to cross a stretch of valley. It is not the most inspiring stretch, passing local industry and arable farming. The various mountains flanking this stretch of the Rhone valley are impressive, though. The Grand Muveran, the Grand Chalard and the Dent du Salantin watch over you. Imaginatively waving to friend of the show Alain Rumpf in nearby Gryon. Unfortunately, we did not manage a ride together, but to him we owe this beautiful route.
Long and straight
At Massongex station, we navigate between the cars waiting for the railway crossing. It is warm, aka bloody hot, and it looks like we are now turning nicely back into the forest. Although: nice is not the right word. The ascent of Les Giettes via Verossaz is a brutal monster that bites off the first three kilometres. My bike almost sticks to the tarmac and that has little to do with the heat. My Wahoo shows double digits for the gradient for several kilometres. It peaks at 13.5 per cent. The steepest kilometre is 11.5 per cent on average. We meander up and the road is occasionally well shielded from the scorching sun. The little fountain halfway up is a perfect stopping point to rest and refill water. It's also necessary.
The gift that keeps on giving
This climb has everything a wrecker likes to have in his toolbox. It is 'the gift that keeps on giving'. For over 12 kilometres, this one keeps you going. It has to be said: the views on a clear day are insane. Lac Leman, Montreux and, with a little imagination, Lausanne are in sight. Unheard of. As we near the summit, we get another dessert of sorts. Over a kilometre through a forested stretch. The climb seems to end in the middle of nowhere. An unexpected challenge this, but one of particular beauty. This is a 'Dent du Midi' for good reason.
Short descent - up again
After a fast, technical six-kilometre descent that is quite narrow and through the inhabited world at the end, we suddenly turn left. It is an out-of-the-way footpath, which is supposed to pass as a road. We would never have found this shortcut ourselves. It turns out to be the start of a beautiful last 20 kilometres. The road winds along the mountainside, offering views over the valley towards Troistorrents, Val d'Illiez and Champéry time and again. As the road turns south, you immediately discern the magnificent Dents du Midi in the background. This is beautiful.
Harken up
What is less stunning: the gradient of some sections on this climb. Not infrequently, ten per cent hits the counter. The road surface is also not equally good everywhere. That does make this route tough. On my computer, I count down the kilometres to the descent. The waterfall on the left provides some cooling and the trees protect from the bright sun here too most of the time. In that respect, it's a fine route. Just before Champéry and just before two o'clock in the afternoon, we settle down for lunch at a classic Swiss mountain restaurant. In Cantine des Rives they serve hearty meals for outdoor enthusiasts. We pass up the raclette and fondue, but the big salad and gratinated pasta certainly go down well. From now on, it's downhill only. Fine with a full belly!
Back to start
With lunch behind us, we head downhill. Suddenly the road crashes down steeply. The road surface here is pretty bad and suddenly there is also a sort of mini threshold. Here the motto is: hold hands. If you keep control well, it really is a racetrack. We turn past the 'Grand Paradis' in Champéry and continue the last kilometres home. It all seems in a straight line downhill, but in Champéry it runs viciously uphill for a few hundred metres. The acid is well in the legs. Fortunately, the last three kilometres are really downhill and with a satisfied feeling we send the bikes onto the terrace at our hotel. What a wonderful day again, here in Valais. Unfortunately, it's the last one! Cycling in Region Dents du Midi is a real pleasure.
More tips and routes from Valais?
- Col du Sanetsch - best kept secret in Valais
- Cycling route to discover Crans-Montana: start quietly with the climb to the village
- Barrage de Moiry: mighty fine climbing around Crans-Montana
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