An ingenious system of drainage canals and mills has been ensuring that 'the Kinderdijk' dry feet. Only during the 1953 flood, there were also problems here and the population suffered. The 19 mills are a unique sight, which is why they have also been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997. For those born in the Netherlands, windmills are part of a normal street scene. For many tourists, it is well worth the day trip. If you are going to cycle to the Kinderdijk windmills, also bear in mind 'traffic'. The route to it from Utrecht is one to frame.
Newport city
You can drive the route to Kinderdijk in several ways. Counter-clockwise via Zilverstad Schoonhoven. Or clockwise via villages like Ameide, Streefkerk and Groot-Ammers. Somehow, I always choose the clockwise route myself. Maybe because of the lovely dyke road on the first 40 kilometres, maybe because of habit. Or maybe that way you have the best view of the town of Nieuwpoort. This is a beautiful fortified town, diagonally opposite Schoonhoven. The two towns, very special in their size and proximity, are separated by the river Lek. A ferry takes you easily from one side to the other. Nieuwpoort has nothing to do with the famous 'Battle of Nieuwpoort'. That would have made the story better, though. Should you want to take time, the fortifications and historic buildings in the city centre are worth a stop.
Watery Molenwaard
Along the lek, it is lovely. The road seems made for a nice ride on a road bike. In the villages (and towns) you have to be careful, but otherwise you can make good two-by-two pace. At several places you can cross to the other bank. The ferries charge a reasonable €0.80 to €1.00 and, for some time now, you can also pay contactless. Makes a difference after all. So on the left, for those looking south, is Molenwaard, where a shade of water and meadows show a typical Dutch landscape. You pass the Ammerse Boezem (what's in a name) which crosses the Groote or Achterwaterschap. The latter stream is connected to our goal of the day: the beautiful windmills of Kinderdijk.
The tramp at the mill
Whenever the name 'De Zwerver' comes up in our house, I always have to chuckle. When I was young, my father could tell tastefully about his own short adventure at the local football club. About that one corner he shot in one go. Whether it was true...we'll leave that for now. About my uncle Gerrit, who I don't really know, but who apparently scored more goals than Haller and Dessers together. That he had a forward who was in the Dutch amateur team, history doesn't mention that. De Zwerver, at the Mill. What a name. We used to go there once and in my memory it had a huge stand, with a huge amount of pitches. In reality, it is a modest complex for a Saturday amateur club. Because playing football on Sunday is still not in the cards here.
The mills
The windmills of Kinderdijk are in every tourism booklet in the Netherlands. Rightly so if you ask me. Despite mills being commonplace to us, the quantity and function of this group of mills is unique. It is a majestic sight, which we approach from 'the back'. You can cycle into the meadows near Nieuw-Lekkerland and then enter the complex from the back. This is pleasant for several reasons:
- You have a better view of the mills
- The road here is not yet littered with tourists
- You can possibly turn off earlier so you don't have to navigate through the crowd
Across the water
To get back, we have to cross the ferry. Sometimes you are lucky and can drive straight on, sometimes you have to wait a while. If you have restlessness in your body, you can also drive back through Molenwaard, but for the view and for the stop further on in beautiful Schoonhoven, the ferry is a must. Once on the other side of the water, you immediately have a different view of the world.
Schoonhoven - Silver city
Right between Utrecht and Kinderdijk lies the silver town of Schoonhoven. A historic centre, with a real town gate, located on the water. An ideal place for a longer lunch or just a coffee stop. Fietscafé Fausto is nicely located along the route here, but we don't make a stop at this recommended spot this time. Fausto used to be in the city centre, but in recent years they have moved to another location. Just want to stop and watch boats? At the head by the harbour, you have a tavern with lovely views of the traffic along and on the Lek.
Flying home
Schoonhoven may not have an airport, you can take a nice route back over the lekdijk with the wind at your back. The road is well paved and you really feel like you can take off. I personally like the route through the polder lands, via hamlets like Uitweg, Lopikerkapel and Lopik. You have all the space there, you can take the dedicated (narrow) cycle path or the slightly wider route along the canal. It winds past farms, country shops and open fields. You can clearly see Lopik's transmitter mast (which is actually in IJsselstein). Just before the transmitter mast and the beautiful location of the Transmission station, then turn back onto the dyke, for the final stretch towards the Lekbrug near Vianen.
Route
You can find the route on our Komoot account. There you will find much more inspiration, including all kinds of routes from Utrecht, as well as our collections on Tenerife, Crans Montana and more!
