A light mist passes over the West Flanders countryside. Behind the hills near Wulvergem, the sun slowly rises. The sun's rays shine over the vines that mark the flanks of Monteberg. The only sound is that of the birds, surprised by an early spring day. Meanwhile, five cyclists slide through the hilly countryside at a smooth cadence. It feels almost serene. A stark contrast to 110 years earlier, when the term 'in Flanders fields' first took on the connotation it has today. Because that is today's theme. A route through 'Flanders fields'. A nod to Ghent-Wevelgem and an ode to the First World War.
read also: Cycling in Flanders Fields: Ghent-Wevelgem route
In Flanders Fields - Kemmel
We set off from Kemmel, starting and finishing point of this 84-kilometre route. A route that takes us past many beautiful places, but also lets us pause to reflect on the history of this beautiful part of Flanders. A benevolent sun shines on our faces. It is still fresh, but soon the sun will shine stronger and the jackets can be taken off.
The first part of our tour will take us towards Ypres via typical Flemish roads and rolling countryside. We ride straight through farmland, the ploughed fields sometimes still soggy from all the water that has fallen. The first 15 kilometres to Ypres are relatively flat with a small hill here and there, such as the Vierstraat near Wijtschate. This is also where we are confronted with the facts. At the corner of Vierstraat and Mandestraat there are two large mine craters on the left. The painful reference to the atrocities of 1917.
Ypres - Menin Gate
Before arriving at Ypres, we turn through De Palingbeek domain, where we also test our legs on Verbrandemolenstraat. Here you can also see some war graves left and right, the theme of the day. In Ypres, all attention is focused on the Menin Gate. Unfortunately, it is under restoration, so we cannot admire it in its full glory. The wreaths with the famous red 'poppy flowers' do a lot. Every day at 20:00, wind and weather, the last post is blown here. An impressive ceremony, during which the words 'we will remember them' are carried extra.
We will remember them
We move on past the characteristic market hall in Ypres, a fine town to come back to for lunch, dinner or just a visit. Normally we would stop at the 'in Flanders fields museum, but we have to move on. We turn back to Kemmel, because in the end that's what we came for: for the climbs on this route. From Kemmel there are two hills at your feet. If you turn diagonally left at the central square, Monteberg with Kemmel awaits you. Go diagonally right, then turn towards the Lettenberg. The latter is a nice warm-up this day. About 2.5 kilometres in total, but nowhere steeper than 7%.
We are riding Gent-Wevelgem!
That warm-up is necessary, because immediately after the descent of Lettenberg comes Scherpenberg. More or less the same thing. What is striking is that these climbs and their associated hills lie very open in the landscape. They almost seem a bit lost, among the otherwise slightly undulating field.
In the Sun
If you're in for a long, or more culinary day, stop by Herberg in de Zon. Ex-racer Dirk Ghyselinck is at the helm here and none other than Karl Vannieuwkerke likes to come here. Delicious dishes and even the Michelin man's logo adorns the door. Unfortunately, it is still in lockstep and with that, an extended lunch like at this Inn might not be the best idea, with the other hills ahead as well. Update: we understand that Dirk has closed his establishment for good. Unfortunate, but apparently a necessity.
Speaking of which, we drive on, via the back of Sulferberg through small villages such as Westouter. Again and again we see the signs: 'commonwealth graves' or 'French War Cemetery. We will remember them. Then it's on to the Banenberg. A longer and steeper climb, which ends under the cable car next to a real windmill. Here we climb at almost 10% for some stretches.
Plugstreets
It is now on to the famous 'plug Streets' at Ploegsteert. These are also in Gent-Wevelgem. The name came about because British soldiers could not pronounce Ploegsteert. Here we encounter three nice gravel strips, which provide the necessary spectacle in the course of Gent-Wevelgem. This is also where we find the monument of the Christmas Truce, at the level of the second strip. In 1914, the guns fell silent here during the Christmas period and there was a fraternal toast, as history goes. Football was even said to have been played there, but this has never been confirmed. The memorial wears a shirt of Liverpool Football Club, but many English, Irish and Scottish clubs lost almost their entire first team in The Great War.
Impressive monument
At Ploegsteert is also the largest and most impressive monument, Berks cemetery. The inn next door is a fine point for coffee or lunch and you can take your time to have a good look at the monument. This is also where you suddenly notice that French is spoken. This little piece wedged between France and Flanders is just now Walloon. The monument makes a big impression: lunch doesn't taste any less so.
Kemmel and Monteberg
After the plugstreets, dessert remains. Or actually it's several desserts. The Kemmelberg and the Monteberg and that in a variation of three sides. Certainly the Kemmelberg from the north-west side is one to start well. Not only the gradient (up to 17%) but also the cobblestones make this a climb you have to toil on. All five of us give it our maximum and we get to the top without stopping. The circuit is a kind of turning and turning. You go up Kemmel, then down, then make a corner in the fields and ride up the difficult side Kemmel again. Then tightly right into the descent to finally conquer Monteberg once more.
Descending back to Kemmel, we park the bike on the terrace of cafe Boutique. If cycling prevails anywhere, it is here. We order a picon-vin-blanc, because that really belongs here. We won't soon forget this Ghent-Wevelgem cycling route. We will remember (them).
Route In Flanders Fields - Ghent-Wevelgem
Below is the route as we rode it during our 'In Flanders Fields' exploration in honour of Gent Wevelgem. You can find more info on cycling in Flanders on the Site of Cycling in Flanders.
