Where everyone heads in the summer towards the high mountains of the Alps and Pyrenees Although beautiful cycling regions can be found in other parts of France, Brittany or the Vosges are certainly a good option. Of course, Bretagne or the Vosges are a beautiful option, but why not go to a place that sounds familiar to many: cycling in the Ardèche. Few flat meters, nice climbs, not too high, good weather and everything you need make this region a wonderful cycling destination for spring, autumn or just in the summer. The main attractions are the Gorges de l’Ardeche and the adjacent Central Massif. The latter comes with a disclaimer: it gets quite crowded with fellow countrymen there.
Where to go
The Ardèche is quite large. The entire area covers 5500 square kilometers. There is plenty of choice when it comes to beautiful cycling routes. In the north, there is plenty of elevation to be found. Just west of Valence. That is actually where the main mountain range begins. It actually runs all the way to the south, where most of the Parc National Regional des Monts d’Ardeche is located. Towards the southeast end you find the Gorges de l’Ardeche. That section, around the Gorges, is flatter. But as you get further inland, it is still quite high and steep. To the left or right, the Ardèche is worth a visit everywhere.
Cycling in the Ardèche: the north
In the north of this beautiful department, near Valence on the Autoroute du Soleil, you will find a few beautiful challenges right away. Take the Col de la Croix de Boutières for example. With a peak at 1500 meters altitude, it is a challenging climb. It is definitely not the steepest climb, but with a little imagination you can cover over 20 kilometers on the way with beautiful long stretches of 6 to 7% kilometers. That is quite a treat, isn’t it?.
Want to test your limits? Go for the less steep Col de la Mure instead. This beauty, which spans 7.7 kilometers and 637 meters of elevation gain from St Laurent de Pape, includes sections with 12% and climbs at a moderate average of over 8%. That’s quite a climb in the early morning. Add to that the fact that the climb is quite irregular and that you’ll be exhausted after just a short stretch.
Le Cheylard is a great base for this part of the trip. From here you can go in all directions; it is located at an altitude of about 440 meters, and if you look closely at the roads, there are plenty of opportunities to have a fun-filled weekend.
Midden Ardèche
Near Montelimar (not in the Ardèche, but known for its nougat!) you will find one of the climbs where the Tour once passed. The Col de l’Escrinet will forever be remembered by Thibaut Pinot, because in 2015 he came across it in a jubilant mood. It’s not a terribly steep hill, but it’s nice to train on and put some tension in your legs. Additionally, it provides beautiful photos for your scrapbook!
From the center you can head towards Vallon Pont d’Arc and there you have the famous winding roads of the Gorges de l’Ardeche. It’s really busy here in the summer, but if you wander off the roads at a quieter time, the surroundings are a real treat. A photo of the famous Pont d’Arc is actually a must if you’re in the area. The beach next to it invites you to take a refreshing swim.
Southern Ardèche
In the south and especially the southeast you will find a beautiful part of the Ardèche. You have here a large mountainous area and the peaks here reach almost 1500 meters. For example, the Col de Meyrand is a beautiful climb. From bottom to top 22 kilometers at an average of 4.7%. Very even and therefore fantastic for a cycling holiday. Another advantage: this part of the Ardèche is relatively quiet. The chance of encountering many other cyclists is quite small! The eastern climb also has a really nice section of curves.
A little further on you’ll find another Col de la Croix, this time from Bauzon. With a peak at 1300 meters, this one is already well-accessible earlier in the season. The long version of this climb starts in Pont de Labeaume. You start by climbing slowly, then it flattens out for a while and after about 10 kilometers it’s still a steady 15 kilometers uphill at 5%. It also winds up really nicely and the views are worth taking in.
For this part, the town of Joyeuse (what’s in a name) or Ruoms is a good choice. In the summer, Ruoms is actually a semi-Dutch colony, so keep that in mind if you’d rather just order a cup of coffee in French.
Questions & tips
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