Where everyone heads for the high mountains of the Alps and Pyrenees seems to attract, beautiful cycling regions can also be found in other parts of France. Obviously Brittany or the Vosges Mountains are great options, but why not go to a place that sounds familiar to many: cycling in the Ardèche. Few flat metres, nice climbs, not too high, good weather and everything you need makes this region a wonderful cycling destination for spring, autumn or just in summer. Main attractions are the Gorges de l'Ardeche and the adjacent Massif Central. The latter does come with a disclaimer: it is quite crowded with countrymen then.
Where to go
The Ardeche is quite large. The entire area covers 5500 square kilometres. There is plenty of choice when it comes to a nice stretch of cycling. In the north, there is plenty of rise to be found. just west of Valence. That is actually where the main ridge begins. It actually runs all the way south, where most of the Parc National Regional des Monts d'Ardeche is located. Towards the south-eastern tip you will find the Gorges of the Ardeche. That stretch, around the Gorges is flatter. But further inland, it is still quite high and steep. Left or right, the Ardèche is worth it everywhere.
Cycling in the Ardèche: the north
In the north of this beautiful department, off Valence on the Autoroute du Soleil, you will already find some nice challenges in your path. How about the Col de la Croix de Boutières. With a top at 1500 metres, it is quite a climb. It is by no means the steepest climb, but with a little imagination you can be on the road for over 20 kilometres with nice long stretches of 6 to 7%. That's quite enjoyable, though.
Want to give yourself a break? Then go for the lesser Col de la Mure. This beauty that bridges 637 altimeters in 7.7 kilometres from St Laurent de Pape contains sections with 12% and thus climbs at over 8% on average. That's a bit much to swallow so early in the morning. Add to that the fact that the climb is quite irregular, so you will be completely broken on this short stretch.
For this part, Le Cheylard is a nice base. From there you can go in all directions, it is at about 440 metres altitude and if you look closely at the roads there is plenty of opportunity to enjoy yourself for more than a long weekend.
Central Ardeche
Near Montelimar (not in the Ardèche, but known for its nougat!) you will find one of the climbs where the Tour had its passage once more. The Col de l'Escrinet will forever remain in Thibaut Pinot's memory, as he crossed the line there cheeringly in 2015. Not a hugely steep hill, but nice for training and putting some tension on the legs. Besides, it provides nice pictures for you in your scrapbook!
From the centre, you can head towards Vallon Pont d'Arc and there you have the famous winding roads of the Gorges de l'Ardeche. It's really busy here in summer, but if you meander down the roads here at a quieter time, the scenery is one to frame. A photo with the famous Pont d'Arc is actually a must if you are in the area. The little beach next to it is very inviting for a swim, though.
Southern Ardeche
In the south and especially the south-east you will find a beautiful part of the Ardèche. You really have a large mountainous section here and the peaks here also reach almost 1500 metres. For example, the Col de Meyrand is a wonderful climb. From bottom to top 22 kilometres at 4.7% average. Very even and therefore fantastic for a cycling holiday. Another advantage: this part of the Ardèche is relatively quiet. Chances of meeting many other cyclists are pretty slim! The eastern climb also has a really nice winding section.
A little further on you will find another Col de la Croix, this time that of Bauzon. With a summit at 1,300 metres, this one is also passable earlier in the season. The long version of this climb starts in Pont de Labeaume. You then start climbing gently, it flattens out for a while and after about 10 kilometres it's still steadily 15 kilometres up at 5%. It also winds up really nicely and the views are to be framed though.
For this part, the town of Joyeuse (what's in a name) or Ruoms is a good one. Ruoms is half a Dutch colony in summer, though, so bear that in mind if you prefer to just order a cup of coffee in French.
