Sicily

Part of Italy

Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, and for cyclists it is a world unto itself. You climb Mount Etna, the highest active volcano in Europe, drive through the quiet mountains of the Madonie and Nebrodi, and cycle past the baroque towns of the southeast. The winters are mild on the coast, the food is fantastic, and outside the cities it is surprisingly quiet on the road.

Why cycle in Sicily?

• The Etna: long climbs of almost 2,000 meters, through lava fields and pine forests, with views of the sea.
• Quiet mountains: the Madonie and the Nebrodi in the north, with empty roads and small mountain villages.
• CultureGreek temples in Agrigento, the Baroque cities of Noto, Modica and Ragusa, and the lively Palermo.
• Mild winters: On the coast, it is often 15 to 18 degrees in winter.

The Etna

Mount Etna is the reason why many cyclists come to Sicily. The most famous climb is from Nicolosi to Rifugio Sapienza on the south side, at almost 1,900 meters: long, regular and through a landscape of black lava. The north side from Linguaglossa to Piano Provenzana is quieter and runs through dense pine forests. Both sides were already on the Giro d’Italia. Up there it can be chilly and in winter there is snow; check the current situation, as roads may be closed due to activity from the volcano.

The Madonie and the Nebrodi

Ten east of Palermo are the Madonie, with the climb to Piano Battaglia at about 1,600 meters, and further east the Nebrodi, with the pass of Portella Femmina Morta. Here you drive through forests, past meadows with horses and cows, and through mountain villages like Petralia Soprana and Castelbuono. From the coastal town of Cefalù you have the Madonie right outside your door.

The southeast: Val di Noto

In the southeast lie the Baroque towns of the Val di Noto, which together are on the UNESCO World Heritage List: Noto, Modica, Ragusa and Scicli. The hills are less high here and the roads are quiet, between stone walls, John the Baptist trees and olive groves. Ideal for a peaceful week with short climbs, good wine and the famous chocolate from Modica.

Three rides to get you started

• Etna from Nicolosi: the classic southern route to Rifugio Sapienza, then a long descent back to Catania.
• Piano Battaglia from CefalùFrom the coast via Castelbuono de Madonie, a day of great views and beautiful scenery.
• Baroque Rond: from Noto via Modica and Ragusa and back, along quiet roads through the southeastern hills.

Gravel

Outside the main roads there are many dirt roads, the so-called trazzere, old cattle trails through the interior. Around Mount Etna and in the Nebrodi you will find beautiful unpaved routes through forests and over lava fields.

Your Cycling base

• Catania or the villages on the flank of Mount Etna, in front of the volcano.
• Cefalù, a coastal town at the foot of the Madonie.
• Noto of Modica, for the southeast.
• Taormina, High above sea level, with Mount Etna and the Nebrodi within easy reach.

Food and accommodation

You can spend the night in agriturismi, B&Bs and small hotels. Sicily is a feast for the tastebuds: arancini, pasta alla Norma, granita with brioche for breakfast and cannoli as a reward after a long climb. The wines from Mount Etna are among the best in Italy.

When are you leaving?

The best weather for cycling is from October to June. In winter, the coast is mild, but there is snow on Mount Etna and in the Madonie. In July and August it is hot, often above 35 degrees; then cycle early in the morning or choose the mountains.

How do you get there?

Fly to Catania for the Etna and the east, or to Palermo for the west and the Madonie. By car, you can take the ferry across the Strait of Messina. There are rental bicycles available mainly around Catania, Taormina and Cefalù.

Practical

• Traffic in the cities is chaotic; leave early and find the quiet roads as quickly as possible.
• Take plenty of water with you in the mountains: villages are sometimes far apart.
• Always check the current situation of the volcano during a tour of Mount Etna.