It should be clear that I am a fan of Italy. Not only of the beautiful routes in Tuscany, Emilia-Romagna or Puglia. No, also of the area in the north and in particular the region around Bolzano-Bozen. Born as a city boy, I have a natural inclination towards cities. However, recently I have been spending more and more time in nature. But you can still be a city boy even when you’re not in the city… you’re always a ‘city boy’. So, working with the city of Bolzano is an ideal combination. The city has everything I like (coffee bars, delicious restaurants, a pleasant atmosphere), but with just a few kilometers I’m out and sometimes almost immediately ‘alone’. So lovely. We set off towards Oberbozen and Klobenstein. A beautiful cycling route from Bolzano that shows you all the top spots.
The unknown certainly does not make us indifferent.
Where I was earlier on the gravel bike I was already heading towards the Jenesienpas and Stoarnerne Mandl Having been there, this is a bit different. From Bolzano, just north of the city, there is the climb to Oberbozen and Klobenstein via the Wolfsgruben. It is a delightful route that offers plenty of challenge for every cyclist and that, depending on your mood, can be extended to a long day in the saddle. You keep adding twists and turns. Since Oberbozen is a bit of a corner on the meadow, the route has a small overlap, but that shouldn’t detract from the proverbial fun. You’ll be treated to beautiful views here. Andiamo!
Hairpin bends
This climb starts with a beautiful series of hairpin bends. They seem specially designed for cyclists. From above, it’s a sight to behold. Once past the turns, the route flattens out quite quickly and you can start to warm up. Once past the turns, the climb is fairly fast to the left, and you’re allowed to get your chest wet. The almost nine-kilometer climb averages 10.7 percent (!) and there are long stretches that are well above that. The only thing you can do is keep pedaling on the small mill. Don’t forget to take a peek every now and then because despite the effort and the painful prospect of another 15% kilometers of pavement, it’s truly a delight.
Oberbozen – Soprabolzano
Once you have overcome the climb, you will get a nice stretch of road that slopes slightly towards the village of Oberbozen (or Soprabolzano). It has recently been agreed that in this section the German name takes precedence, although the area is bilingual (in some places with a local dialect even trilingual). Hence the name Klobenstein and not Collalbo. Oberbozen is also the terminus of the cable car that goes up from the town. A cable car leaves every four (4) minutes, taking you up in 12 minutes. Oberbozen is very famous for the Erd pyramids, which can be reached by a short walk.
The ice rink in Collalbo
Anyone who mentions the name Collalbo in the Netherlands will immediately think of skating. Klobenstein (Collalbo in Italian) was for many years a popular venue for major skating tournaments. Ask Ireen Wüst and her thoughts will go back to a Sunday in 2012. A day she would like to forget. To cycle, the route towards Klobenstein is beautiful. You drive along a panoramic road that offers a magnificent view over the mountains. Past the village you find another set of ‘earth pyramids’, which seem to be leaning against the mountain. From the road you can see them, but the best view is from the side path, where you are unfortunately not allowed to cycle. Getting off and taking a short walk is the motto, but the reward is fantastic. The entire panorama, including the church and magical Dolomites, is very special.
For the variety, it’s fun to go from there and then dive down to Lengmoos. For this route, we choose the descent that goes over the beautiful hairpin bends from Klobenstein. That descent is pure enjoyment. Long, clear, and definitely not too steep. If you’ve never been on a race bike before, this is a great training ground.
Cycling route from Bolzano to Klobenstein
What makes cycling in Bolzano special
The fact that you can cycle everywhere in the Dolomites is obvious. Yet Bolzano-Bozen has something special. We give you a few extra reasons to choose Bolzano anyway when planning your next cycling trip.
Wine estate in the city
You can’t avoid the wine culture in Bolzano. If you’re in the mood, visit Schmid Oberrautner. A stunning wine estate with apartments, right in the middle of the city. Some beautiful ‘Lagrein’ grapes are still growing on the branches there, alongside the ‘Sankt Magdalener’ grape of the city. It is quite extraordinary that a city has not one, but two native grape varieties. Well-known examples of this (linked to a region or a city) are Soave, Valpolicella, Chianti and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.
Basecamp Bolzano
Schmidt Oberrautner can serve as an excellent base for a beautiful cycling tour. The apartments on the vineyard are available for rent. The only thing that is still missing is a storage space for the bike, but there is plenty of space for that. The couple who runs this vineyard has pure passion and entrepreneurial spirit. That is great to see. The wine is of very good quality. You can book tasting sessions and after a tasting you will definitely want to eat something. A good lunch on the estate with some local cheese, cold cuts, bread and more works wonders.
If you're completely crazy about Then Bolzan is the wineo the paradise. From the city you can follow the wine route, towards Kaltern and Tramin an der Weinstrasse. In the autumn, this is a must-try when the ‘Törrgelen’ season starts and you also have the Autumn Wine Days in Tramin. More information about the wine and everything that goes with it can be found on the website of the South Tyrolean Wine Route
Between Italy and Austria
The city lives and combines the Italian with the typical South Tyrolean. On the daily market there is plenty of choice in fruit, spices, pasta, but also flowers. It’s nice to take a look around. The central shopping street, Via dei Portici is characterized by a beautiful arcade, where you can also shelter from a (rare) rain shower. In this arcade there is also a nice coffee spot, Thaler. It doesn’t look like a coffee bar, and you have to take the elevator to the 5th floor, but there is actually a nice roof terrace hidden there, from which you have a great view over the city and the surrounding mountains.
Another recommendation for coffee or an aperitif is Hotel Città, The city’s main attraction. The hotel bar and restaurant have recently been thoroughly renovated and everything exudes grandeur. It’s a sight to behold here, and with a bottle of the local ‘Spumante’ you can really recover from a day in the mountains. The more elegant Park Hotel Luna Mondschein is also beautiful, where you’ll find a bit more shelter in the hotel’s beautiful garden.
Cycling in South Tyrol? A beer goes with that!
Beer and cycling have long been a good match. Nowadays there are many good sports beers, low in alcohol or sometimes completely alcohol-free. Many touring cyclists just enjoy having a nice Weizen, blond or IPA after a long bike ride. That’s fine by me. And if you prefer to drink a beer rather than a local wine, go to Batzen Hausl. This craft beer brewery is among the top in the Italian craft beer scene. The young owner is passionate about beer and is constantly trying new flavors. In the brewery-restaurant-bar, he even has his own ‘lab’ where, for example, wine and whisky barrels are used for aging. Besides the well-known varieties, there are also some fruity beers on the menu that taste surprisingly good. Combined with a classic, ‘robust’ menu featuring Schweinshaxe and lots of grilled meat, it is well balanced.
Useful to know
- Bolzano has a very pleasant climate. You can cycle there well into autumn. Recent trips in October were all doable in ‘long-short’, with an exception to ‘short-short’ in terms of clothing.
- The city is well connected. The train takes you across the border to Innsbruck in two hours or to Verona in two hours. The connection to Innsbruck is also a good connection to the Nightjet network, allowing you to take the night train. For more information, see here
- Bolzano Airport It is located almost right in the middle of the city. Since the end of 2021, this airport has been exclusively served by SkyAlps. This airline flies inconveniently for Dutch people from Dusseldorf and Antwerp. However: by train from Utrecht you are in the terminal of DUS airport in 1 hour and 50 minutes. That’s not bad at all! From there you are in the heart of the city in 1 hour and 40 minutes. One advantage of this small airport is the quick check-in and security procedures. More information about SkyAlps can be found here.
- Bolzano, like the rest of Italy, has a perfect coffee culture. Besides Thaler and Citta, you can also go to Corte Bar & Bistro.
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.