Portugal is a beloved holiday destination, but for many it is not even at the top of the list when it comes to cycling trips. For me, it is! My mother moved to Portugal, and so over the past few years we -my wife Kirsten and I - have cycled many kilometers in Portugal. Thanks to the combination of beautiful weather, challenging climbs, a welcoming population, and friendly prices on the terraces, it is always a fantastic experience. So far, we have mainly limited ourselves to the eastern part of the country. Algarve, But after a few cozy evenings with my cycling friend Marieke, a new plan has emerged. We are going to cycle back from Lisbon to the Algarve! In this article, we take you on a journey. To really get you excited about cycling in Portugal yourself, I have also included some additional background information in the article. Enjoy!
Text and photos: Dale Boom
Cycling in Portugal: the best season
The first time we went cycling in Portugal was during the summer holidays. In retrospect, I can say with firm certainty that this is not the best plan: it can actually get very hot. Nowadays, I always plan our trips between October and May. It is generally fine weather for cycling then.
Cycling in Portugal: the road quality
The quality of the roads in Portugal varies greatly, from smooth, manicured tracks to roads where you can’t see the asphalt through the holes. If you’re bringing your own bike, choose a sturdy tire. If you’re going gravel biking, keep in mind that these are not the manicured forest and meadow paths from the Netherlands. They are, however, plentiful!
Cycling in Portugal: the facilities
On our regular trips, we like to cycle inland. Start from the coast and head north for a little over an hour, and it soon becomes very quiet and deserted. So bring plenty of water and food, and be self-reliant in case of any problems. There are areas where there are few shops and cafes (or even villages). It might also be useful to keep an eye on the local holidays so you don’t plan a road trip on a day when everything is closed.
Important holidays in Portugal:
- Freedom Day – April 25
- Labour Day – May 1
- Easter/Ascension
- Day of Portugal – June 10
- St. Anthony's Day – June 13
- Maria’s Assumption – 15 August – FREE DAY FOR ALL OF PORTUGAL
- Republic Day – October 5 – shops open
- All Saints' Day – November 1 – shops are open
- Restoration of Independence – December 1
Lisbon Algarve: the plan
Well, a few months ago an idea arose to cycle from Lisbon to the Algarve. Slowly but surely, something even started to take shape as a concrete plan. We built a route that follows the coastline, including a stop at Cape Sao Vincente – the most southwestern point of continental Europe. In total, it’s a little under 500 kilometers, mostly on asphalt. We want to do it in four stages, and spend the nights in Airbnbs. We’ll bring our own bikes, which are transported to Portugal by a carrier: a Koga Colmaro Allroad, a Focus Atlas, and my old Stevens Vapor. Tough bikes that can take a beating. All three are equipped with Continental Grand Prix 4 Seasons in 32mm, a tire that gives confidence in fast descents, but they also have a handle on a gravel path. To get to Lisbon we’ll take the train.
Stage 1: Into the city (and out of it)
After a few days of acclimatization, it’s finally time: our adventure is about to begin! We have to get up early to catch the train. It leaves in Faro, and that’s about 20 kilometers by bike for us. Once we arrive at the station, the train is already ready. We booked our tickets online a few days ago. You can check here that you’re bringing a bike. This is free of charge, but the seats are limited. You’ll be assigned a fixed seat. Once we find our spot, everything falls into place. There are two hooks per wagon to hang the bike on, and the seats you’re assigned are right there. Well organized!
The train journey to Lisbon takes three and a half hours. It’s a beautiful ride, but the most beautiful part is still the sight as we cross the Tagus and Lisbon appears before us. Beautiful! We get off at Oriente station, the largest station in the city. We booked an Airbnb in Setubal. The shortest route is 50km, our route 85.
Stormy weather all over the city
Leaving Lisbon comes with the hustle and bustle that comes with a big city. It’s a little over nine kilometers to the ferry that takes us back across the Tagus (there’s absolutely no possibility of doing this via a bridge). Although we’ve already been on the road for hours, it feels like the moment our trip really begins on the other side.
Continue from Almada
Once we left the city of Almada, we soon found ourselves on the Costa da Caparica, a popular holiday area – but in the off-season it’s empty and quiet. Campsites, houses, and hotels separate us from the ocean, so unfortunately we won’t be seeing them. It might not be the most inspiring part of our route, but well, we’re on our way! At least… after barely forty kilometers, we suddenly hear a loud clicking sound. It’s immediately clear what it is. There’s a flat spot in Kirsten’s rear wheel, and it’s so crooked that it can no longer be driven. Fortunately, we’re still in urban area! Soon we find a good bike repair shop, not more than four kilometers away. Luck in an accident. We arrange for an Uber for the stranded cyclist, and we quickly get on the bike. Fortunately, the bike mechanic knows what he’s doing: we have a tosti and pastel de nata at the adjacent pastelaria, and he fixes a drivable wheel. Great!
Adjusting and moving on
Because the above incident took some time, we shortened the route. Bad luck along the way: switching gears, planning, and changing routes: that’s part of the job. However, we did get to drive a bit along the main road instead of the tourist route we had planned. However, the last 30 kilometers make up for it all. We see beautiful vineyards and drive through the greenery. The final stretch towards Setubal is absolutely impressive. We drive along the water over a road that – with a bit of imagination – could have served as a Portuguese version of Milan-San Remo. We only have to drive a few kilometers through the city before we find our place to stay; a comfortable apartment with a view over the harbor and bay. Once we’ve showered and changed clothes, we’ll have a quick little break, order a pizza, and then quickly go to bed. It was a long day!
Stage 2: Ricefields and Crabs
Today we have a planned distance of about 130 kilometers. The first eight will be covered on a ferry that departs a few hundred meters from our apartment. A good way to wake up and start the day peacefully! We sail towards Tróia, a long, elongated peninsula with beaches, surf schools, and holiday resorts. It is a beautiful place for cycling through the dunes. After 15 kilometers, we turn off the road towards a gravel path surrounded by rice fields. A new and special experience, especially with the wild-behaving crayfish that cross the path!
Longer roads towards Sines
After the rice fields, we continue along long stretches of roads towards Sines. We stop briefly at the fort for some photos. After that, we follow a beautiful stretch along the ocean, with surfers lying in the water to brave the waves. After about ten kilometers, we have to turn around. It must be possible to tackle more of these stretches, but only on real gravel tires, with fewer daily kilometers. That doesn’t take away from the fact that the route we’re following now is absolutely no punishment! And then there’s our overnight spot: a house with a view of the cliffs, with a large swimming pool and no other guests around. Wow!
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.