The Van de Ghisallo to Gavia cycling route over the Bernina

We have previously published the highlights of the journey Thomas made with Roos, where he traveled from Ghisallo to Gavia. This is part three of that beautiful report, which includes, among other things, the bike route over the Berninapas, just across the border in Switzerland. One of those that is on many bucket lists, but that is not included in the route. So enjoy an extra piece of inspiration with routes in Lombardy and a little bit of Graubünden in Switzerland!

Text and photo: Thomas Bogaard – Read part 1 and 2 below!

Stages 5a and 5b: Climbing with tears in my eyes

Fortunately, it’s nice and sunny today, so after two days in Tirano, some of us decide to take a day off. It was only yesterday. We set off for a coffee run. It’s a 20 km round trip. We get back in time for a small lunch, where I decide: two half-days off in a row? That’s not for me!

I get Komoot involved and create a route to the top of the mountain. Mortirolo, I skip the standard climb. I immediately head straight up to Tirano; under 10% kilometers won’t get me there in the coming kilometers. But the climb through the forest is beautiful and just before the top I can see the village where I started lying in the valley.

I continue my way up a mountain pass and swing through a constantly changing landscape to the Mortirolo. Meanwhile, it has gotten quite warm and I fill up my water bottle, take a photo, and descend.

After another short climb I arrive in Tirano. There I see part of the group. “We’re going to get gelato!” You want to come? I order the biggest cone they have, with 5 flavors in it. I’m exhausted and can’t go any further than 4. The lady behind the counter understands after the word Mortirolo and fills the cone completely.

In the sunshine, I talk about my adventures.

For dinner, we decide to walk to the old village. This is really recommended! Small streets with old and new Vespas and not unimportant: terraces and small bakeries. I buy some small pastries, because during such a recovery period you have to take good care of yourself.

Stage 6: Bumping along the Bernina Pass

We leave Tirano and Italy and almost immediately enter Switzerland. It’s also breathtaking as soon as we leave the village! Today we have some things to look forward to, starting with the Bernina Pass. What a climb! The view is constantly breathtaking; nowhere does it disappoint.

In addition, it is wonderful to drive alongside the Bernina Express, with “lazy tourists” encouraging you on the way up. Once we are above, we descend briefly to the plateau. At 1700 meters above sea level, we are in awe and drive on to Sankt Moritz.

It’s not warm, a short-sleeved shirt might be enough and the clouds are blowing beautifully over the mountain passes. This doesn’t bode well at all; a side wind now means full force against Maloja. I drink and eat well and I know one thing: there are two things waiting for me: a beautiful descent over the Maloja pass and sun in the valley.

After I have fussed with the Bernina, I swing it again. The view motivates me and the fact that no one wants to take over even more. This is secretly a pleasure! The high-altitude lakes, where you can see the clouds and the mountains double. We climbed up to these this morning.

The beginning of the descent is adorned by two cement trucks. We decide to wait for a moment and let the stream of cars driving behind the trucks pass by. After that we descend, almost without any traffic around us, towards the sun and the warmth over the beautiful Swiss roads. I will definitely come back for this climb!

We cross the border again and arrive in Chiavenna. Not a very exciting village. That doesn’t matter, we are spent. Today it’s shower, eat and recharge for the last day.

Stage 7: Everything and everyone to the Philistines

With a bit of melancholy, I’m setting off on my bike today. The last day… We start off slow and steady, but no less beautiful. A branch off the Comomeer offers us a beautiful route. We chat a bit about the past week and the one climb that still awaits us.

From Menaggio we head across to the other side of the lake and our finish line. Upon arriving in Carlazzo we are greeted with a surprise: we have a choice. Go straight home, or take the back roads and the mountains again. The climb to San Nazzaro Val Cavargna is an option. I can't resist the call of nature and choose the latter! Take it all off again!

After a week of climbing, I start the ascent with good spirits, which brings us up with a few small descents. And the trick is in the tail. We start slowly but after each descent the percentages get higher. We end up with long stretches of 10% to continue to the main prize, a few kilometers where it doesn’t go below 15%. All to the Philistines!

Once we're up there, we wait for each other; no one really says anything, just scattered snippets of conversation. Then someone says: "Let's go down and get the pizza at the lake!" We drive down beautifully and find a pizzeria by the water.

In the conversation that follows, the climbs from the past week become higher, longer, and heavier with every minute. This trend continues during dinner. We eat, drink, and laugh a lot! Because what a great week this has been!