The new cycling season is still open like an uncharted travel guide. Exactly the right moment to take a week back in time that had it all: legendary climbs, bad weather, heroism, gelato and the kind of fatigue that secretly makes you happy. Roos and Thomas trekked through Northern Italy last season, from the Madonna del Ghisallo to the flanks of the Gavia, via the Mortirolo And the Berninapas. They rode not only through the landscape, but also through the soul of cycling. Today we begin with stages one and two of their wonderful story (Stages three, four, five and six will follow soon).
Photos and text: Thomas Bogaard
Starting at Lago di Lugano – on to Como
The trip starts in Porlezza, a small town on the Lago di Lugano. Here we leave our car behind and meet the group with whom we will be traveling all week. Together we look forward to a week of: breakfast, getting dressed, cycling and enjoying it, showering and eating again. Eat, Sleep, Bike, Repeat. To do it again the next day. Lovely and clear overview! Everything is taken care of; all we have to do is fill up the water bottles and hand over the luggage and we are off again for another day. A week of cycling fun!
As a tip for those who are going: if you ever visit here again, you can climb the Sighignola from Porlezza. Balcone d’Italia. A must-do and for many a very unknown climb!
Stage 1: Grande Partenza
Our grande Partenza, as mentioned, is in Porlezza; from there we take the ferry. This takes us from Griante to Bellagio, a peaceful start to the journey. Although peaceful, the first day is always a bit of a challenge when you’re out and about with someone new. Fortunately, everyone is eager to spend a week cycling.
But as soon as we get to the top, the rest is over; we’re off to climb! And not just any climb; we’re on a pilgrimage to the Madonna del Ghisallo. This climb and the chapel on top of the mountain are words that describe them perfectly: Iconic.
Upstairs, we soak up the atmosphere and have time to take in the endless stream of cyclists. From juniors with big dreams to seniors who may be here for the last time. The bikes among the cyclists are also very diverse: old rusty barrels to the latest carbon racing machines. It’s truly a delight! So if you have time here, take a seat and enjoy it.
We continue our journey and descend towards the coast, driving fairly straight to San Pellegrino Terme. Known for its vibrant waters and soda pop. A small Italian village on the Fiume Brembo. We return in time to take another short walk to the spa with a large gelato.
Stage 2: The mountain train
We continue with the pilgrimage theme for another day. The next day begins with the Passo di Zambla, with the Madonna dei Ciclisti at the top. The climb is truly beautiful. We start with overhangy rocks above a narrow road and here and there a small waterfall. Then the climb slowly winds up to the church. Unfortunately, it is closed, but the view on the descent is no less impressive.
We descend for a long time at a percentage where you can pedal hard. The descent begins with many U-turns before continuing over longer stretches of straight road. We finish the climb that day with the Passo Collo del Gallo, not super long at 10 kilometers. But we start with a flat stretch and every kilometer the mountain gets steeper, ending with kilometers of 7 and 8% on average. With this climb we cross over to Lake Iseo. The winding road to Lovere is a great reward after a wonderful day. We finish that with a big gelato on the promenade. This is life, folks!
Want to read more about this adventure? Part two will follow soon!
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.