Alpe di Neggia: Hidden gem in Ticino

Alpe di Neggia is the absolute hidden gem of Ticino. It is one of those many climbs in Europe where you can conquer both the home country and a neighboring country. The Col du Grand Saint Bernard, triangular points in the Benelux, but also the famous Brenner Pass, to name a few. On the border between Italy and Switzerland, to be exact between Lombardy And Ticino has some beautiful challenges waiting for you. Today we climb Alpe di Neggia: a hidden gem in Ticino. Prepare yourself for stunning views over Lake Maggiore, hairpin bends that will make your fingers curl, and a descent that demands all your attention and probably new brake pads as well. Will you be joining us again?

Pre-event

If I plan to go cycling during my vacation in Italy, the Alpe di Neggia is high on the list. Through my friend, the guide Alain Rumpf I have already seen the climb pass by. However, he drove the variant from the Ticino up. Given my location, near Cuveglio, Varese, the other side of the climb is my part. While I quickly get the elevation profiles, I immediately feel like having a big ride. From Cuveglio, over the pass towards Switzerland and then descending towards Ascona-Locarno. Then along the edge of the Lago Maggiore to Verbania. Still looking for Ganna’s soul this time. Filippo this time.

A great meeting

Social media is not called ‘social’ for nothing. Yes, there are many disadvantages to Instagram, Facebook, TikTok, etc. The techniques these platforms use to find you as a user are sometimes too ugly to describe. Yet you can use them to your advantage. During the Corona period, I started working more actively with Insta and still managed to make some contacts. The common denominator? The love for cycling. One of those contacts is David, who is active on Insta as Dobos1975. Davide started cycling in 2020 and has become completely obsessed with the bike craze. We chat via the chat. When I post a vacation photo and log a ride on Strava, I get a message from m. He asks if I would like to go for a ride together. He lives just an hour from Cuveglio. Super cool of course and we make plans for a joint ride.

Old school

I am very open-minded and like to meet new people. However, I still find the concept of ‘we are friends on Instagram’ complicated. How well do you know someone you only see or ‘talk’ to through a screen? How is that person in real life? Is it a facade? You never know. When I finally arrive at the café at 7:00 AM on Saturday morning, a warm meeting ensues. As it turns out, David and I get along very well. Of course, we first have a real ‘caffè’ and with my knowledge of the Italian language, a good bond forms immediately.

After my traveling companion has grabbed his bike and is ready to go, we roll in a northern direction. Lake Maggiore is our first destination. Due to the early time of day, there are still few motorists, let alone cyclists. The temperature is still pleasant, although it’s the heart of summer. We have good conversations. David talks about his introduction to cycling, that he loves numbers and Strava is his second home. How overcoming hills forms a beautiful challenge in his life as a single man. A different approach than mine, but super cool to hear. He’s only been cycling for two years but has a good foundation through running and other endurance sports. Very nice.

Through village lanes and along the waterfront

Our first 20 kilometers take us through small villages and over country roads. The asphalt is mostly good, the road is hilly and we are kept a little out of the sun by the trees and the buildings. In villages like Cantevria and Cassano Valcuvia, old men are sitting on stools waiting to see how the day will unfold. They almost tremble at the kind ‘Buongiorno or Ciao’. Sometimes you can already smell the ‘ragú’. In my mind I see a ‘nonna’ standing in a pan stirring with a large wooden spoon. Everything is based on instinct and experience, including the herbs, the dosage and the cooking time. When can we join in?

After about 20 kilometers, when we reach the village of Luino, we see the beautiful clear blue water of Lake Maggiore, one of the three large lakes in Italy. We follow the shape of the lake in a northerly direction, all the way to the foot of the climb. The roads are surprisingly quiet this time too. We drive through the trees and tunnels in nicely sheltered conditions. Every now and then a heated Italian driver comes flying past, but if you drive carefully one after the other, that’s not a problem. Uncalculated, that heated behavior.

I love Holland 

We drive past Villagio Olandese, the ‘Dutch village’, a place that I think you want to avoid. I saw it on the map and couldn’t believe my eyes. As it turns out: somewhere in the 60s-70s, a Dutch foundation started building holiday homes. It’s a copy of a Center Parcs from that time. Typical Dutch holiday homes, but just a stone’s throw from the Italian/Swiss border. No Panini Luigi here, but I can’t promise there’s pasta on the menu of the little restaurant. Still, it’s special to see this Dutch expansionist drive also being seen in Italy.

The top, but not the border

Alpe di Neggia is a crazy climb. What is striking is that the climb is a kind of two-step rocket: the first step is in Italy but the top is well beyond the border in Switzerland. You don’t see that often in this kind of ‘border situation’. Usually the top is right on the national border. Logical too, in terms of history and defense line. Also easier to control, but apparently Switzerland was suffering from a sense of urgency, or there is another reason why the top isn’t the border. Who knows. We turn right in Maccagno and right away we are treated to the characteristic short sections of hairpin bends that you see a lot in Italy.

Anyone who has ever driven the Civiglio will recognize this for sure. It is relatively narrow and the short stretches make you quickly gain altitude. That also means quick views of a stretch of valley with the lake as a backdrop. Beautiful. We sometimes drive in the sun, but the early hours help us. The heat is still bearable. We climb higher and higher and along the way we pass through small villages where the church and the café still form the focal point.

Construction works

Just before the border with Switzerland at a junction with a descent, we have to put all our speed into the brakes. A large truck is blocking the passage. The excavator that is filling its loading bay is moving slowly up and down. We make eye contact with the truck driver and the international gesture of ‘there’s nothing I can do about it, it’s what it is’ brings a smile to our faces. On the other side of the truck, a group of older ladies are waiting too until they can move on. They shrug their shoulders. It’s what it is. 

Once the truck is loaded and the road is clear, we can continue up the hill. Soon we regain our rhythm and pass the abandoned customs office. The Dogana is no longer active here. We also pass the border and, believe it or not, we immediately see a postbox that is making its way up. Typical Switzerland, where every corner is served by a bus line. 

This section of the climb is also the most challenging. It has double digits in terms of slope percentage, but still has beautiful hairpin bends. Along the way we find typical Swiss Alpine houses, which the Dokummer Flag Center has also earned its reputation for. Swiss people are a proud people, as it turns out. 

Blown away

We are approaching the summit and David is clearly struggling. He is not yet a very experienced climber. Finding the balance between his strengths is a challenge. I encourage him to keep going. The summit is looming and the view from the summit over Lake Maggiore and the town of Ascona is breathtaking. Breathtaking. That is for sure and we are both impressed. Blown Away; but also literally because there is a very strong wind. We make a toilet stop (also handy for female readers: there is a very clean public toilet here, with separate ladies and gents toilets!) I take off my Busti Put on a raincoat. The wind is really fresh!

Attention! Attention!

We get back on the bike and start the descent. No matter what kind of descent it is: just like the climb, this short stretch has straight sections after one after another (blind) hairpin bends. It’s really important to be careful because there’s quite a lot of traffic going up and the roads here are narrow. There’s not much time to enjoy the view and the curves here. We also don’t take the time to stop for photos. Today we roll on. 

The second part of the descent is slightly less steep and therefore more relaxed than the first part. If you look up for a moment, you can see the beautiful lake and the city lying below. Please note: the last 1.5-2 kilometers are in a populated world and you have a lot of traffic! It is life-threatening to dive down here blindly. Even with your eyes open, we can barely avoid a collision

Along the lake through the city

Ascona-Locarno could have been any city in Italy. A beautiful boulevard, classic houses, you name it. The point is: it’s in Switzerland, said t in the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino or Tessin. It’s a gem, let’s say. We drive right through the city, over beautiful bike paths that sometimes end abruptly. That’s still a problem in both Italy and Switzerland. The cycling infrastructure is often subordinate to the car. With shacks, poles and sometimes abrupt ends of the paths as a result.

Our goal is to cross Ascona and then follow the edge of the lake, back to Canobbio in Italy. As we leave the city behind us, we drive on the larger, main road. There is plenty of space for cycling, but there is also a lot of traffic. We are now mostly driving in tandem, which is unfortunate but not insurmountable. By now we are well over half of our journey. When we pass each other, there is a nod of understanding: as soon as we are in Italy, we stop for coffee. Not only is it cheaper, but it would be a shame to go get coffee in Switzerland.

Back in Italy: On to Ganna

In Canobbio we actually stop at the first café we see. We try the coffee and ice cream. David still has to look for good options with his gluten allergy, but he too can be satisfied. We continue talking about beautiful things like family, work, and life. You know the feeling. Fully recharged, we get back on the bike. I’m happy with my Etxeondo set today. The combination of my Alde shirt and the Orhi The pants are perfect. They are wonderfully light and airy, just right for this warm weather. David still rides with a bandana (good thing, he’s an Italian and Pantani….) to protect his bald head. In the summer, he wears a thin cap, in the winter, a warm cap. Great idea!

When we regain our rhythm, we are joined by a group of fanatical men who are on a higher level of intensity. Judging by the clothes they are wearing, they also come from the Cuveglio area. ‘Team Peruffo’ is emblazoned on the thighs of a brown-suited Italian. Peruffo It’s the candy shop for bike enthusiasts in the region. The shop is filled with Pinarello, BMC and Bianchi bikes. You should be able to find your dream bike there.

The men of team Peruffo are taking us along for the ride. We are joining in and that helps us move at a nice pace towards Verbania. There not only stands the cradle of Filippo Ganna, but the boat also departs from there towards Laveno. This way we can complete our round without having to cycle around the entire lake.

Verbania

Verbania is an atypical port city. It’s all about the ferry boats that go to and from the Borromee Islands, where tourists come ashore in droves every day. Someone described the sight as that of Norman beaches in 1944. Only without the gunfire and the many casualties, but the image of the many boats and hordes of people says enough. From Verbania, the other ferry services also depart to the various corners of the Lake. All we have to do is make the straight crossing, which takes only 20 minutes. A ticket for the bike costs just under €5 and there’s plenty of space. The ferry leaves every 30 minutes, so the chance of you having to wait for a long time is quite small. Still, you have to wait? Then stop in the city for a drink or an ice cream on the square or along the promenade. You won’t be disappointed.

The final kilometers

Once we arrived in Laveno, we still had 10 kilometers to go to the start of our ride. We passed Cittiglio, the place where Binda is honored with a roundabout. Komoot had even rewarded us with some extra elevation gain for that. Thanks for that, but that really didn’t have to be the case. We rolled back to the starting point of Cuveglio. The sun was already high in the sky and we were glad we could enjoy the well-deserved cold cola. What a wonderful ride and what a pleasure to actually do that with someone you don’t know.

Route and tips

The route we rode can be found in our Komoot account and below. Additionally, here are some useful tips:

• If you want a nice place to start and end: Molinari and West in Cuveglio. The best ice cream and good coffee. Just keep in mind that they’re closed in the afternoon, between 12 and 15.
• Peruffo is your place for beautiful cycling gear. If there is anything else wrong, they will definitely help you out.
• Above Alpe di Neggia there is a bike tool station. Super handy, even if you need to fix something for a while.
• Leave early in the morning, because it can get very hot in summer.
• Don't forget to bring layers/rain jackets. You're still driving in the mountains, and the weather can change suddenly. We had enough with just an Alde shirt, an Orhi cycling pants, and a Busti jacket, but arm warmers are definitely recommended for warmer days.
• Once in Ascona Locarno, it’s a bit of a trek. Follow the signs towards Italy and you’ll be there in no time. Unless you’d like to stop for lunch, then Osteria Ascona or Osteria Nostrana is an insider tip. Note: Swiss prices 😉
• The boat between Verbania and Laveno sails every 30 minutes. For information, timetables and tickets, see site