If you want to look for great climbs or unique routes, here's a fun challenge: grab the kart of Europe and see where you can cross the border between 2 countries or sometimes as many as 3 to 4 countries in a route. Great examples are the Colle D'Agnello, which Steven Kruijswijk will never forget, the Col du Grand Saint Bernard, three country points in the Benelux, but also the famous Brenner Pass, to name a few. On the border between Italy and Switzerland, between Lombardy and Ticino to be precise, some nice challenges await you. Today, we climb Alpe di Neggia: a hidden gem in Ticino. Prepare for stunning views over Lake Maggiore, finger-licking hairpin bends and a descent that requires all your attention and probably new brake pads. Are you reading again?
Preview
When I plan to go cycling during my holidays in Italy, the Alpe di Neggia is high on the list. Through my guide friend Alain Rumpf I have seen the climb pass by before. However, he rode the variant from Ticino up. Given my location, near Cuveglio, Varese, the other side of the climb is my part. As I quickly grab the elevation profiles, I immediately feel like making a 'big ride' of it. From Cuveglio, over the pass towards Switzerland and then down towards Ascona-Locarno. Then along the edge of Lake Maggiore to Verbania. Still looking for the soul of Ganna again. Filippo this time.
A great meeting
Social media is called 'social' media for a reason. Yes, there are many drawbacks to Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and so on. The techniques these platforms use to find you as a user are sometimes too ugly for words. Still, you can take advantage of them. During the Corona period, I got more active with insta myself and gained some contacts anyway. Common denominator? The love of cycling. One such contact is David, who is active on insta as Dobos1975. Davide has been actively cycling since 2020 and has become totally hooked on the cycling bug. We get talking via chat. When I post a holiday snapshot and log a ride on Strava, I get a message from m. Whether I fancy doing a ride together. He lives just an hour from Cuveglio. Super cool of course and we make plans for a ride together.
Old school
I myself am very open and enjoy meeting new people. Yet I still find the concept of 'we're friends on Instagram' complicated. Because how well do you know someone you only see or 'speak' to through a screen? What is such a person like in t real life? Is it clean-cut? You don't know. When I finally arrive at t café at 07:00 on Saturday morning, a cordial meeting ensues. As it turns out, David and I get along very well. Naturally, we first drink a real 'caffè' and with my knowledge of the Italian language, a good bond is immediately formed.
After my travelling companion grabs his bike and is ready to go, we roll northwards. Lake Maggiore is our first aiming point. Because of the early hour, there are still few motorists, let alone cyclists. The temperature is still pleasant, even though it is the middle of summer. We have good conversations. David talks about his introduction to cycling, that he is crazy about numbers and Strava his second home. How conquering cols is a nice challenge in his life as a bachelor. A different approach to me, but super cool to hear. He has only been cycling for two years but has a good base through running and other endurance sports. Very nice.
Over village roads and along the waterfront
Our first 20 kilometres take us through small villages and on b-roads. The tarmac is mostly good, the road is undulating and we are kept out of the sun a bit by the trees and buildings. In villages like Cantevria and Cassano Valcuvia, old men sit on chairs, waiting to see how the day will unfold. They are almost startled by the friendly 'Buongiorno or Ciao'. Sometimes you can already smell the scent of the 'ragú'. In my mind's eye I see a 'nonna' stirring in a pan with a big wooden spoon. Everything by feel and experience, including the spices, dosage and cooking time. When can we sit down?
After about 20 kilometres, as we reach the village of Luino, we see the beautiful clear blue waters of Lake Maggiore, one of Italy's three great lakes. We follow the shape of the lake northwards, to the foot of the climb. Again, the roads are remarkably quiet. We still ride nicely sheltered by the trees and tunnels. The occasional heated Italian rushes by but if you ride well behind each other, it's not a problem. Calculated, that heated behaviour.
I love Holland
We drove past Villagio Olandese, the 'Dutch village', a place I think you want to avoid. I saw t on the map and couldn't believe my eyes. What turns out: somewhere in the 60-70s, a Dutch foundation started building holiday homes. It's a copy of a Center Parcs from that era. Typical Dutch holiday homes, but a stone's throw from the Italian/Swiss border. No Panini Luigi here, but whether there is stamppot on t restaurant's menu, I dare not promise. Still, special to encounter this Dutch expansionism in Italy again.
The peak, but not the limit
Alpe di Neggia is an insane climb. What is striking: the climb is a kind of two-stage rocket that has a first stage in Italy but where the summit is well over the border in Switzerland. You don't often see that in this kind of 'border case'. Usually the summit is flush with the national border. Logical too, in terms of history and defence line. Easier also in terms of control, but apparently Switzerland was suffering from determination, or there is some other reason that the summit is not the border. Who knows. We turn right in Maccagno and immediately we are spoiled with the characteristic short stretches of hairpin bends you see a lot in Italy.
Anyone who has ever ridden the Civiglio will certainly recognise this. It is relatively narrow and the short stretches mean you quickly gain height. That also quickly means beautiful views over a stretch of valley with the lake as a backdrop. Superb. We now occasionally ride in the sun a bit, but the early hour helps us. The heat is still bearable. Smoothly we get higher and higher and on the way we cross small villages where the church and café are still the focal point.
Structures
Just before the border with Switzerland on a section with a descent, we have to apply the brakes fully. A large truck blocks the passage. The excavator filling its bucket smoothly turns no and back. We make eye contact with the truck driver and the international gesture for 'I can't help it, it is what it is' brings a smile to our faces. On the other side of the truck, a group of elderly ladies also wait until they can move on. They shrug their shoulders. It is what it is.
Once the truck has loaded and cleared the road, we can continue uphill. Soon we have regained our rhythm and pass the abandoned customs office. The Dogana is no longer active here. We also pass the national border and, believe it or not, we immediately see a post bus making its way up. Typical Switzerland where every corner is served by a bus line.
This section of the climb is also the most challenging. Double digits in terms of gradient, but still beautiful hairpin bends. Along the side we find typical Swiss alpine houses, which the Dokummer Vlaggen Centrale has also made good money from. Swiss are a proud people, it turns out.
Blown away
We are approaching the summit and David is visibly struggling. He is not yet a hugely experienced climber. Searching for the distribution of his strength, that is a challenge. I encourage him to push on a bit more. The summit beckons and at the top, a magnificent view of Lake Maggiore and the city of Ascona awaits. Breathtaking. It certainly is and we are both impressed. Blown Away; but also literally because there is a very strong wind. We make a toilet stop (handy also for the female readers: there is a very clean public toilet here, with a separate ladies' and gents' toilet!) I pull out my Busti mackintosh for a while. After all, the wind is really chilly!
Attenzione! Attenzione!
We get back on our bikes and start the descent. What a descent too: like the ascent, it has short stretches of straight road with one (blind) hairpin after another. It is really careful because there is quite a lot of traffic going up and the roads here are narrow. There is not much time to enjoy t views and the curves here. Nor do we take the time to stop for photos. Today, we roll on.
The second part of the descent is slightly less steep and therefore more relaxed than the first part. If you look up, you can see the beautiful lake and the city. Be careful though: the last 1.5-2 kilometres you drive into the inhabited world and have a lot of traffic! It is life-threatening to dive down here like a blind person. Even with our eyes open, we can only just avoid a collision
Along the lake through the city
Ascona-Locarno could easily have been a city in Italy. A beautiful boulevard, classic houses, you name it. Case in point: it is in Switzerland, said t in t Italian-speaking canton of Ticino or Tessin. It is a gem, it has to be said. We ride right through the city, on beautiful cycle paths that sometimes stop abruptly. This is still lacking in both Italy and Switzerland. The cycling infrastructure is often subordinate to the car. Resulting in bus shelters, bollards and sometimes abrupt endings of paths.
Our goal is to cross Ascona and then follow the edge of the lake back to Canobbio in Italy. Leaving the city behind, we ride on the larger, through road. There is plenty of room for cycling, but there is also a lot of traffic. We now ride mostly behind each other, which is unfortunate but not insurmountable. By now, we are also well over halfway through our ride. When we ride past each other for a moment, there is a nod of understanding: once we are in Italy, we will stop for coffee. Not only cheaper, but it would be a mortal sin to go for coffee in Switzerland.
Back in Italy: on to Ganna
In Canobbio, we actually stop at the first café we see. We enjoy the coffee and ice cream. With his gluten allergy, David has to look for good options but he too can indulge. We chat some more, about nice things like family, work, life. We get back on our bikes, fully refuelled. I am happy with my Etxeondo set of today. The combo of my Alde shirt and the Orhi trousers, is perfect. Wonderfully light and airy, just right for this hot weather. David still rides with a bandana (forward, he is an Italian and Pantani....) to protect his bald head. A thin one in summer, a warm cap in winter. Just fine!
Once we regain our rhythm, we are caught up by a group of fanatical men, who have a faster pace. Judging by their clothing, they are also from the Cuveglio area. 'Team Peruffo' appears on the buttocks of a brown-bandaged Italian. Peruffo is the candy shop for bike lovers in the region. The shop is bulging with Pinarello's, BMC's and Bianchi's. Surely you should be able to find your dream bike there.
The men from team Peruffo take us in tow. We turn with them and that also helps us move at a nice pace towards Verbania.Not only was Filippo Ganna's cradle there, but also the boat to Laveno leaves there. This allows us to complete our lap without cycling around the entire lake.
Verbania
Verbania is an atypical port town. It is all about the ferries to and from the Isole Borrommee, where tourists land in droves day-in-day-out. Someone described the sight as that of Normandy beaches in 1944. Well without the fire and the many casualties, but the image of the many boats and hordes of people say it all. From Verbania, other ferry services also leave for the various corners of the Lake. We only have to make the straight crossing, which takes just 20minutes. A ticket by bike is just under €5 and there is plenty of room. The boat goes every 30minutes, so the chances of having a long wait are pretty slim. Do you have to wait anyway? Then make a stop in town for a drink or an ice cream in the square or along the promenade. You won't be disappointed.
The last kilometres
Once we arrived in Laveno, 10 kilometres remained to the start of our ride. We passed Cittiglio, the place where Binda is honoured with a roundabout. Komoot treated us to some extra altimeters before that. Thanks for that, but we didn't have to. We roll back to starting point Cuveglio. The sun is now high in the sky and we are glad to be able to enjoy a well-earned cold coke. What a wonderful ride and how nice to actually do it with a stranger.
Route and tips
You can find the route we drove in our Komoot account and below. Along with some useful tips:
- If you want a nice place to start and finish: Molinari and West In Cuveglio. The best ice cream and good coffee. Just keep in mind that they close for a while in the afternoon, between 12 and 15.
- Peruffo is your place for great cycling gear. If there is anything else wrong, they will surely help you.
- At the top of Alpe di Neggia is a bike tool station. Super handy, even if you need to tighten a few things.
- Leave early in the morning, as it can get hot very quickly, especially in summer.
- Don't forget to bring layers/rain jackets. You are riding in the mountains after all and the weather can suddenly change. We now had enough with an Alde shirt, Orhi cycling trousers and a Busti jacket, but arm warmers are definitely also recommended on cooler days
- Once in Ascona Locarno is a bit of a doddle. Follow the signs towards Italy and you're through quickly. Unless you like to stop for lunch, then Osteria Ascona or Osteria Nostrana is an insider tip. Note: Swiss prices 😉
- The boat between Verbania and Laveno runs every 30 minutes. For info, timetables and tickets, visit the site
