Cycling in Auvergne. Perhaps the most underrated region in France. Today, the region is part of the larger administrative region 'Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes'. Which literally extends into Savoie, Haute-Savoie, Isère and Ardeche. Auvergne comprises the departments of Cantal, Puy-de-Dome and part of Haute-Loire. Cycling in Auvergne means gaining altitude metres. It is home to pro cyclist Romain Bardet. Is it a coincidence that he became such a good climber? We lay out some great cycling routes in Auvergne for you.
1. Chaîne des Puys Circuit
- Distance: 55 km - 830 hm
- Highlights: The volcanoes of Auvergne at a glance
- Directions: This tour around the Chaîne des Puys goes right through the heart of the Auvergne volcanic landscape. Unfortunately, the Puy de Dôme itself remains off limits Starting in Orcines, you cycle through the forests, tick almost all the volcanoes (there are many) and get so many beautiful pictures. The unique geology (volcanic history) of the region makes it fantastic. The route contains a mix of climbs and descents, ideal if you want to do a mini high altitude ride across the volcanic terrain of Auvergne.
2. Gorges de la Sioule Tour
- Distance: 70 km - 950hm
- Highlights: Extraordinary 'gorges', medieval villages, nice along the river
- Directions: This round trip through the Gorges de la Sioule offers a perfect blend of the Auvergne. Starting in Chouvigny, you cycle along the river with stunning views of the steep (overhanging) cliffs and the green valley. The route takes you past charming medieval villages such as Ébreuil and Charroux, where you can stop for a coffee and take a peek at local history right away. Nothing wrong with that, right?
3. Around Mont-Dore
- Distance: 85 km - 1610 hm
- Highlights: Mountain landscapes, waterfalls, spa
- Directions: This route takes you through the heart of the Monts Dore mountains. This lies a little further south in Auvergne. Volcanoes are again prominent here. The classic spa town of Le Mont-Dore is a great starting point. The route winds through forests, past waterfalls and to the Col de la Croix-Morand. At the top, you can stop for a good lunch or coffee and something sweet. Views guaranteed! This challenging route is top for the more trained cyclist.
4. Lac d'Aydat - coffee ride
- Distance: 40 km - 720 hm
- Highlights: Lake, forests and also volcanoes
- Directions: This relatively easy round trip around Lac d'Aydat is ideal for a leisurely coffee drive. You can start in Saint-Genès-Champanelle or, for example, from Royat. You cycle along quiet roads through the woods, with occasional climbs. You ride along the lake, perfect for a swim or picnic after the ride. The route offers short climbs and beautiful views of the surrounding countryside. If you start from Royat, you start right away with the Circuit de Charade as a climb. you can admire the old racing circuit (and the new one) beautifully.
5. Livradois-Forez
- Distance: 88 km - 1260 hm
- Highlights: Rolling hills, pretty villages, nice in the woods
- Directions: The Livradois-Forez Regional Nature Park offers a mix of everything Auvergne is known for-the volcanic hills, the sometimes dense forests and beautiful villages. Starting in Ambert, you cycle through the beautiful surroundings of the national park. The hills, the villages, ideal for those who want to explore the quiet, rural part of Auvergne.
Tips for bikes and cycling routes in Auvergne:
- Be prepared for height differences: as already mentioned, the Auvergne is nowhere flat. So make sure you put the right gear and take into account sometimes extra steep hills. Also read our tips to start your climbing adventure in Auvergne well prepared.
- Check the weather: My own experience is that the weather can quickly turn from sunny to thundery, especially in summer. It can become threatening and then also suddenly thunder (and rain hard). Take that into account and you are quickly vulnerable in the relatively open countryside. Via Meteo France you have the most up-to-date local provision
- Enjoy the cuisine of Auvergne: Auvergne is known for its cheeses, charcuterie and hearty fare. You could say the perfect fuel for cyclists. The sleepy villages are often home to delicious specialities. Really try a 'truffade', a kind of thick pancake of potato. These come in all sorts of varieties. A good truffade is made in goose fat though, so for vegetarians and vegans always check!
If you're looking for somewhere nice to stay, check out the 'Acceuil Velo' website for good accommodation where you can also take your bike. I myself have stayed at Huttopia in Royat slept. A luxurious campsite with many amenities, including bike hire. There were only e-mobiles, but the advantage was that there was also a set of keys and a pump. You could also rinse your bike at the campsite. If you go cycling from Orcines, you have for instance La Bergerie d'Emile
The culture of 'coffee shops' has yet to land a bit in France. Hence it is better to stop at a real Boulangerie for a delicious croissant or something locally sweet.
