Like a slow-moving menace, the white-turquoise-coloured diesel boom pulls through the flat, vast landscape. The train towards Roodeschool is a household name. The northernmost railway line. Only a farm and a level crossing can be seen in the wide surroundings. Further on, you can discern the next station: Warffum. Via Usquert, Uithuizen and Uithuizermeeden towards the final destination Roodeschool. Wind force 6 blows across the fields from the northeast. It is chilly, almost bleak for the first Friday in April. This is Groningen as Groningen should be.
As we brave the wind on our bikes, we do wonder about something. As products of a suburban upbringing, we are not used to so much space. So what brings people here to the northernmost part of the Netherlands? Is that the peace and quiet? Is that the nature present? The food? Or something else after all? For us, it is the start of a nice quest. One that leads past a butcher's shop, a borg, churches, fields and the beautiful North Cape. In search of the soul of the Wadden.
Sustainable craftsmanship
While we were shopping the Waddenslager stepping into Uithuizermeeden, we are cheerfully welcomed by what appears to be, and is in terms of voice, a genuine Groningen woman. Petra, co-owner of this business, as well as its associated pig farm, does her job with great joy. In a world where the demand for sustainable and local is getting stronger, this sustainable butchery has earned its place. With an eye for people and animals, the products are prepared with love. As Petra beautifully puts it: 'from piglet to plate, we facilitate the process'. The pigs and chickens (temporarily unavailable because of the flu) are given a full life. If you would like a piece of meat, this is the address in the Wadden area.
The longer we keep talking, the more I appreciate the way they do it. In the shop are Rita, Anouk and also Hans. Hans would definitely be subtitled on Dutch TV, although that is not at all necessary. I still get a suspicious look at first. 'Nice to hear it all, but who are you really?' he asks offhandedly. I have to laugh. I like this. I joke that we write for the Roodescholer weekly. I quickly get that ball back. After a fire of questions and a nice list of well-known local media heroes, we get to the point. We write about cycling and would like to know a bit about the butcher's shop and work.
Hans appears to be a smooth talker, still working in the butchery, which he became the owner of over 43 years ago and which he took over eight years ago. The butchery itself will be exactly 100 years old on 27 April 2022. Hans' grandfather started the business. He himself ran the joint with his brother for 35 years. Where his brother is now: 'He lives in a fat villa'. Roaring laughter. Then suddenly saying: 'Butreh, are we done here? I still have work to do and if I talk to you, nothing will happen'.
North Cape
As the wind starts blowing more and more heavily, it gets colder by the second on the bike. A family further on runs together up the dike at the North Cape to take a look at the Wadden Sea. Windmills blend harmoniously with the landscape. As if they have been here for ages, not put here to satisfy our insatiable hunger for progress and demand for energy. There is something magical about standing here. Just like on Land's end of John O'Groats. On the other hand, here you also have a very good view of Eemshaven. The first ferry to Norway is already at anchor. The steaming pipes of the power station next to this port detract a little from the landscape here.
Once the family has left, silence and tranquillity return. We are alone and cannot help but take photos in this special place. The bird-watching point is one for connoisseurs. The three seagulls that pass by us are not going to make up the difference. When the cutting cold becomes too much for us, we move on. The soul of the Wadden is beginning to take shape. It is enjoying itself.
Treasury
A veritable avenue with trees on both sides leads to the stately Menkemaborg. There are actually no castles in this region. Here you find borgen. Castles, but different. Menkemaborg is one such example. Once set up as a defence tower, it was later expanded into a stately home. Now it serves as a museum. The adjacent Schathoes has since been transformed into an atmospheric restaurant with a no-nonsense attitude. The kitchen of this restaurant has five stars. With a nod to the five chefs working there. A smile automatically appears on your face.
Robert is a man of the region. He does not use a word too much. Some call that gruff. You could also say, he communicates very efficiently. Actually from nowhere he comes into the picture. Whether he has something to say about the room. He's in a hurry, though. Car. Garage. No problem. In the short tour, we become much wiser. About the function of the space (large kitchen, servants' quarters, brewery and more), the old living room of the last occupant (Rijntje Dijk) and the tearoom Back in the restaurant, we see another glimpse of this space. In the main restaurant space, a picture hangs above the bar of a family. The Dijk family? That's unclear. In fact, no one knows exactly who it is. A nice addition to this atmospheric place. How the food tastes? Made with love. Five stars.
Churches, fields and quakes
In Huizinge, the earth is shaking on its foundations. Literally. This is the epicentre of the earthquakes that are giving people in the area headaches. A hamlet made up of four streets, a church and a living room café. Where time seems to pass more slowly than in other parts of the country. Where people know each other inside out. This is where young people move away after childhood to come back later. If they still can, with the ground shaking. Coincidence or not, but on the day of our trip, there is an earthquake in Zeerijp, which is further away. Cafe Nastrovja will not be serving pints for a while.
Churches
The wadden region has many beautiful places. Many are linked to faith, as everywhere in the world. We all look at churches, mosques, temples and other places of worship. Each holy place has its own signature. The churches of Groningen are unique. Each one slightly different from the next. Sometimes they are completely free, almost in the open field, but still an important part of the village centre. Ever since I was young I have loved looking for these places. It remains special to see how old buildings are shaped. Even in the 18th century, building a church was an investment of time, money and materials. Every church tells a story. They give the surroundings their soul. The soul of the Wadden is best seen through these beautiful, small, special buildings.
Basecamp Winsum
For this trip, Winsum is our basecamp. On recreation Marenland we are in good hands. The adjoining restaurant 'The Boys from the Neighbourhood' takes care of the inner man. Breakfast, dinner and everything in between. Atmospheric, but without much fuss. Just right and fitting for this environment. It's full by default. Our Scandinavian chalet is fully equipped. So convenient with all items that need to go on such a trip. Winsum is a good, central location in the north-eastern wadden region. Groningen is close by, but the Wadden coast and the eastern Eems Delta are also easily accessible. So from here you can enjoy cycling in the wadden region
Route of the day
Our route took us past special places in the wadden region. The North Cape, Middelstum, Uithuizermeeden, but also villages like Holwierde, Losdorp and Zeerijp. The church of Eenum served as the backdrop for some great photos. All in all, it here enjoy. Will you also come cycling in the wadden region?
