Our explorer Dennis Knuist (aka Cycling Dennis) was visiting the Czech Republic to explore the region. At the invitation of Czech Tourism Benelux he went cycling in Prague. Purpose of the trip? To explore the region and see for once with his own eyes why this beautiful country has been tipped to us many times recently. It is already known that the neighbour of Poland, Germany, Austria and Slovakia is an underrated cycling destination.
Text: Dennis Knuist, Photos: L'etape du Tour Czech
Up early
The alarm goes off early on Friday, flying to Prague at 07.05. A trip I've been looking forward to for a while. This weekend I get to visit the 'L'etape du tour' in the Czech Republic drive. The journey from home to Schiphol Airport goes entirely smoothly and the dreaded long queues also stay out. To kill time on this early morning I listen to a podcast. It listens so nicely that I quickly download just two more episodes for during the flight. At exactly 07.05, the plane arrives at the gate in Prague. Satisfied, I conclude that I should listen to a podcast much more often to spend my time usefully.
Litepacking is the code word
Since I light travel also in Prague, I can pass through security in no time and literally bump into my driver, who is already waiting for me in the arrivals hall. Within 30 minutes of arriving in the Czech Republic, I arrived at my hotel. The hotel is located next to the Strahov Monastery and close to Prague Castle. It is higher than the city centre, so I have a nice view of the city from above. The start and finish location of the event is also nearby; in short, an ideal base for this weekend.
Fat box
After a very fine cup of coffee, I am beckoned by the lady of the hotel. In the lobby, a man with a very nice road bike is waiting for me. So this weekend I get to bang away on a very fat Specialized Aethos. The energy pours in and I decide to take the bike straight away. The man from the rental company, Ski a Bike Radotin, invites me to come by later today to adjust the bike. He has a stand at L'etape and there I can make use of his tools and expertise. Now I was also prepared and had brought some Allen spanners, so first I go to work on my own in my hotel room. After half an hour, I am satisfied and decide to take my first ride.
Straight up
From the hotel, it's straight uphill (7%) towards a botanical garden, Kinsky park and the Petrin Gardens. Through the park is a cycle path and at every turn I am treated to fantastic views of Prague. You will also find an observation tower in this park and a train goes all the way up from the lower centre. I am surprised with short, very steep climbs (up to 15%) along the way, and I have already made 330 altimeters after leaving the park and cycling just 8 kilometres. That promises something!
Towards the centre
From the park, I descend towards the city centre and as soon as I turn onto the road, there is a complete cobblestone sheet in front of me. I discover that most of the streets are covered with these and try to find a route out of the city centre using Komoot. I eventually manage this and find my way to the Strahov stadium, where Sparta Prague used to play its home games. This is the largest stadium complex in the world. An ideal location for the start of an event. That is why the L'etape village was built here. This is also where I meet Premek Novak.
Grand Project
Premek is project manager of L'etape du Tour Czech Republic (in full) and is partly responsible for media relations. Thanks to this man, I am riding that fat Specialized. A total of 3,000 cyclists are taking part this year, divided into two distances. For both distances, there is a fully enclosed course. That's very cool. Along the way, there are hundreds of volunteers pointing out the correct route and/or dangerous points to the riders, and there are also police escorts everywhere. Five feeding zones have been set up all over the course and, for mechanical support, there are a number of vehicles belonging to a Czech pro team driving around. Quite an organisation for good reason.
A bit of history
The motivation for wanting to organise it all in the Czech Republic originates with the car brand Skoda (main sponsor of both the 'real' Tour and all L'etape events) and We Love Cycling (online magazine). Skoda comes from the Czech Republic and therefore no L'etape event should be missing in this city either. After a good chat about our passion for cycling and a quick bike check with my friends from Ski a Bike, I head back to the hotel, full of enthusiasm for cycling tomorrow. I end this day with 33 kilometres of cycling and 685 altimeters and have not even been outside Prague.
Eye to eye with the devil
The next morning, after a good breakfast and ditto cup of coffee, I meet Didi the Devil. Didi is the man who has been seen on TV every Tour for years, running up the mountain with the Tour riders dressed as the devil. His name is Dieter Senft, born in Germany and he is now 70 years old. Didi travels all over Europe and Asia and hires himself out to events. So he did at L'etape. His presence gives that extra tour feel to this event. He is just a nice man, crazy about cycling and at 70 still super fit.
Start
At 09.30 I arrive in my compartment at the start of the L'etape. I have start number 1048 and this turns out to be the very last section. For the next half hour, the section slowly fills up and you can even feel a bit of tension. Finally, at 10.00 am, a countdown bell pops through the speakers, followed by a loud bang, and things slowly start moving for me. The first 7.5 kilometres are neutralised. This section goes right through Prague and to avoid accidents on the cobblestones or tramways, this has been chosen. The sound of 1,500 hubs around you sounds very impressive. From the start, many spectators along the route are already clapping enthusiastically and encouraging us. This will continue throughout the day.
The course
We drive out of Prague towards the airport. As soon as we leave the big city, we are really let loose. We ride among wheat fields, we pass numerous small villages and we are heartily cheered by the spectators present. The roads along the way are good and here and there it even looks like they have been swept. The first hour flies by with an average of 35 km p/h. This goes unnoticed in a large peloton, but it eats up energy. With all those altitude metres still to come, I am starting to feel the pinch. At 23 kilometres the first serious climb looms and with playful ease I manage to pass many participants. I wonder whether I am that good or this bike. It does give a huge kick when you fly up a climb and everything stays within the green in terms of feeling and doesn't shoot straight through to bright red. The climb itself is just under two kilometres with an average of 5%, but catching up with the other participants made it something of an obstacle run.
Bohemian Rhapsody
Most of the course goes right through Central Bohemia, a very varied region with the highest point located at 865 metres. Most of it consists of agriculture and forests and with the heat of this day (27 degrees), the cooling of the forests is very pleasant. Also, climbing through the forests gives something mythical to me. In any case, the views are beautiful and make for a nice distraction on this rolling 140-kilometre course and 2,000 altimeters.
Good care
At the first feeding zone, I hand in my water bottle and get a new one filled with cold water. Now that's good service! With some pieces of watermelon and banana, I jump back on my bike and continue on my way. While eating, I take the tension off my legs. Here, too, there is an enthusiastic clapping crowd, rows thick. For a moment, I feel like I am in a real race. The presence of the crowd even makes everyone give their all on the short sprint. The organisation has laid this out, as can also be seen at the Tour during a stage. I also give it my all and high-fiving with the crowd, I cross the line of this intermediate sprint.
Pierce
After 2.5 hours on the course with the average still well above 32 km p/h, my legs are also starting to protest, we have made over 1,200 altitude metres by now and the pace is still high. The nice thing about all this is that there are enough nutrition zones to replenish all those lost minerals and salts. Cramps and other discomforts are therefore spared me. But above all, the enthusiasm of the crowd, the experience of everyone and the fact that we all hung in the other's wheel for a while, makes the time and kilometres fly by.
Bowl
At kilometre 70, we come to a KOM segment, a 3-kilometre climb with 8.7% average gradient. It was jokingly called 'the Wall of Huy' here. This one hurt over the full three kilometres, partly because of the cobbles, but very much because of the 10-11% sections. But secretly just enjoying it and cycling at the top between the crowds gave a huge kick.
Back in Prague
After 4 hours of racing we arrive back in Prague and with a small group we set a good pace. This by the way without really exchanging a word with each other, but head over head we fly towards the finish. Because there is a lot of uphill in the last hour, the average drops considerably, but at this pace it starts to pick up again. At six kilometres another climb and at two kilometres another one; here our pact breaks up again.
I also manage to turn a good resistance on the last climb and cross the finish line after 4 hours and 28 minutes, where Didi is jumping and cheering. A little further on, a medal is hung around my neck and my participation in this race is over. Tired but satisfied, I make my way through the crowd in search of food. Eventually I find the pasta party and the large bowl of spaghetti and a can of cola taste more than good. With tired legs but feeling satisfied, I return to the hotel.... WHAT AN EXPERIENCE!
Where did I stay
During my trip in Prague, I stayed in a beautiful hotel. Hotel Lindner in Prague is located in the city's historic centre. That's ideal for exploring the city, but you're also fairly quick out of town to let the bike do the work nicely. The hotel is also equipped with a fitness and sauna area, for good relaxation after the ride. With a large terrace, its own restaurant and another fine bar, it is highly recommended for a trip to Prague.
For more information on holidays and cycling in the Czech Republic, click here!
Tips for travelling light
Dennis went 'light' for this trip. That basically means taking as little as possible on the trip so as not to have to take any hold luggage either. He was given a helping hand by having his bike arranged for him in Prague. This was in his rucksack:
- Cycling clothes for 2 days
- Helmet
- Cycling shoes
- Toiletry bag
- Camera
- Laptop
- Casual clothes for two days
If you're thinking of eventually travelling lighter, for example if you want to go bikepacking, we have some tips.
- If you are going to fly, use organisers, or cubes.
- For example, use shoes to put things in
- Opt for materials made of merino wool, which is fine with undershirts anyway
- For deo and shampoo, it can help to work with 'bars'. Yes also for deo
- Ask yourself: do I 'really' need it? First answer not an immediate yes? Leave it at home
- One of the most useful items is the 'Buff'. Even when it's hot you can put it on your head against the sun and when it's cold it can come in handy to keep out the chill or as a kind of balaclava on your head.
Want more tips for travelling light and with hand luggage only? Take a look at the site of Litepacking District!
