Tenerife is an ideal destination for cycling. There are many hidden gems on the volcanic island of Tenerife/ Not for nothing do many pros train all year round on this island of eternal spring. Earlier, Ruben Hoogland had already cycled on Tenerife for us, where he explored what makes this island so suitable for cycling adventures. This time, Ruth travelled to this island for us, which formed about nine million years ago through underwater volcanic eruptions. In this report, she takes us on her cycling adventure on this volcanic island.
Read also: https://cyclingdestination.cc/verhalen/spanje/tenerife-geschikt-of-ongeschikt-voor-een-fietsavontuur
Text: Ruth Koops of ’t Jagt
Wheels and windmills
The spokes in our wheels spin slowly as the blades of the meters-high windmills you find on the southern flanks of the island. Here, the wind often blows strongly, which is why there are at least three wind farm complexes in the area. We climb from Porís on the Abona to Villa de Arico after first driving from Güímar over the beautifully winding TF-28 to our first coffee stop. ‘Tenerife rolling,’ our guide Alberto Delgado from Tenerife Bike Training calls these first kilometers. In other words, for the cyclists in Tenerife this part of the route is fairly flat. But our Dutch bike legs need to get used to this short, at times steep climb and descent.
Carretera Vieja
This beautiful route in the south of the island runs largely along the Carretera Vieja, or the Old Road. This was originally the main road that connected the north and south of Tenerife. Locally, this road is also known as the road of a thousand bends. And we can definitely feel that.
After several kilometers of turns and turns, the first Cortado awaits at Casa Arbelo in Arico Viejo. The espresso with milk is the typical coffee stop when you go cycling in Tenerife. Here, it’s not without ‘Rosquetas de Batata’, a doughnut-like snack made from sweet potato. According to insiders, this contains more than 90% sugar, also known as ‘rocket fuel’. We definitely need that sugar for the climb that then takes us past the windmills.
Long climb
For nearly ten kilometers, we climb at an average gradient of 5.2% and a maximum of 10%. The road is incredibly quiet, with hardly any other traffic. This is cycling as it was meant to be. Sometimes it feels as if you are the only one in the world. When you ride alone, all you hear is your own breathing, the wind, and the rustling of your wheels and the blades of the windmills. In a surreal, sometimes desert-like landscape where you can easily imagine yourself dancing on the pedals over the flanks of a volcano.
Tenerife Bike Training: https://tenerifebiketraining.com
Breathtaking Anaga
Cycling in Tenerife (the largest and highest of the Canary Islands) feels like you’re cycling across different continents in just one week. The island’s various microclimates and elevation differences provide a huge biodiversity of flora and fauna. There are as many as six different ecosystems on an area of just over 2,000 square kilometers. As a cyclist, you can see your surroundings and views change within just a few dozen meters. The first southern route, in a sometimes desolate landscape with wolf droppings, windmills, sturdy shrubs, and red-colored rocks, was fantastic. Today we’re cycling through an explosion of greenery, 180 degrees different.
Royal reception
In the center of Tacoronte, we are first welcomed by the mayor in the old colonial house with fresh coffee and treats. Then we descend to Mirador del Pris, a viewpoint with a beautiful view of a part of the northern coastline. Through narrow paths with short uphill stretches, we then drive through a hilly green landscape to Tegueste. In this village adorned with flags, it is once again time for cortado and rosquetas de batata before we enter the beautiful natural park of Anaga.
UNESCO Biosphere
Not for nothing is Anaga a protected nature reserve with UNESCO Biosphere status. The Anaga Massif is one of the oldest parts of the island, with rocks that are between 7 and 9 million years old. Due to volcanic activity, wind and water erosion, and the special climate in this northeastern part of Tenerife, you will find a wealth of unique native animals and plants here. In the higher parts of the Anaga Massif, you cycle through centuries-old ‘laurisilva’ or laurel forests. Over twenty million years ago, large parts of Europe were covered by these magnificent subtropical forests until the last ice age put an end to them. Except here in Tenerife.
Beautiful route
With a bike ride through the Anaga Park towards Mirador Pico del Inglés, you will also find yourself in a fairytale world. Here you will pedal along an explosion of greenery with laurels, cork moss, heather, willows, and wild ferns. Sometimes it is as if you are cycling through magically green tunnels. At the end of the climb, you will find a beautiful viewpoint. Closer to the roof of the world, you might not be able to get there. From Mirador Pico del Inglé, you can see large parts of the north and the middle of the island. After that, we can make our way back to the coast via a very pleasant descent. In the port of Dársena Pesquera, we treat ourselves to fresh fish and the typical Canarian potatoes at Yanfi Marina Restaurante, which once reached this island via Peru.
Tower of Magic at the End of the World
The best thing about cycling with local guides is that they know the places that are magical. It’s like being an explorer on a bike. At the far end of a beautiful volcanic island stands a quirky lighthouse that warns ships off the coast on stormy nights. The third route we cycle together on Tenerife starts at Mirador El Lance. Here a meter-high bronze statue of a man will wave to us. Mencey Bentor was his name, an indigenous Guanche king. Here it is said that he fell into the ravine because he refused to be captured by the Spanish conquerors.
Icod el Alto
We begin our journey on the road between Icod el Alto and Realejos. After a short climb, a beautiful descent follows, after which we climb the los Vinos again from Icod, this time towards Restaurant Mirador de Garachico. There we have a coffee stop with a feast of sweetness. A little over a kilo heavier, we then descend over a beautiful descent back towards the coast. Time for the final part of the route.
Cycling in Tenerife = cycling to the end of the world
From Buena Vista del Norte, the climb to the end of the world begins. Each of us climbs at our own pace to Mirador Punta del Fraile. From this point, we have incredible views over the rugged coastline. The coastal wind blows here relentlessly, and if you want, you can fly a kite with your carbon bike. Underneath us, the ocean with its white foam heads against the rocks. Due to the wind, the falling rocks and the nature reserve we are cycling through, this road is only accessible by bike, taxi or public transport. Carefully we continue our journey, sometimes hanging in the wind and standing on the pedals on the steepest stretches. In a dark tunnel, we drive through it illuminated by the headlights of the following car. Fortunately, there is light at the end of the tunnel. For our legs too, because there follows a straight descent to one of the most beautiful places where you can get to by bike.
Go west
On Punta Teno, the most westerly point of Tenerife, a red-and-white-striped lighthouse stands proudly upright: ‘Faro de Teno’. Through a wooden boardwalk, you can also walk up a rugged black-grey rocky landscape with bright green mosses and bushes to an observation platform at the farthest point. Looking around, you see the waves crashing fiercely against the Acatilado de los Gigantes beech trees, the gigantic straight-edged cliffs along the northwestern coast of Tenerife. In the building next to the lighthouse, which is normally closed to the public, we are treated to a lavish buffet of delicious dishes, cakes, and snacks. We let the sea breeze blow through our hair, pause at so much beauty, and sigh deeply. There are many beautiful places to visit by bike, but this lighthouse magic at the end of the world definitely ranks among the top ten.
Cycling in Tenerife: route north part 2
Cycling in Tenerife: Vuelta al Teide
The icing on the delicious cake of this Tenerife week is the Vuelta al Teide, a Gran Fondo where you climb El Teide in a long (175 km) or shorter (95 km) route. The volcano that lies in the middle of the National Park and World Heritage Site El Teide. I have already written about my doubts about choosing the whole or half Gran Fondo in Greatest bike adventures are not just for the daredevils.
With all my heart and soul, on this final day I will finally cycle the half Vuelta all the way to Teide. The night before the ride, Alberto Delgado explained what we can expect from the course. ‘Don’t be mistaken,’ he warns, ‘after the long climb, the 5 flatter kilometers through the park may seem like a steep climb. But it’s exactly there that I’ve already seen many cyclists blow themselves up.’
Medium is also good
While the long-distance runners have already risen at dawn to start their 195 kilometers from Puerto de la Cruz, we take taxis to our starting point in Santiago del Teide. In the village, festive music blares from the speakers as the announcer in excited Spanish encourages all the riders. One last quick coffee, a nervous gulp, and a round of applause from left and right, and then the starting signal rings out. For us, the ride from Santiago del Teide begins with a short, tough climb via Las Manchas to Alto Arguayo at 1076 meters altitude. The climb is only 2.1km long but has an average gradient of 7%, making it the perfect way to wake up our still sleepy muscles. Cycling in Tenerife is not that bad after all.
El Teide Nature Park
After a descent, the 24-kilometer climb from Chio towards the El Teide Nature Reserve begins. Don’t get me wrong, this is a long climb with a relatively gentle gradient through beautiful nature, but for me it’s a great cycling gift. Without even glancing at my Garmin, I instinctively set out to find my ideal pace. The pace at which I can still breathe through my nose, look around, chat in broken Spanish and English with unfamiliar cycling enthusiasts who become friends for a moment. Sometimes a fast Jelle comes flying past, flashing a blue bib number, which I know means he or she has already cycled over 100 kilometers. Normally I could get quite excited about that, but today it’s all about enjoying the moment.
Corona forestal
After the first part, which for the most part runs through the Naturpark Corona Forestal and where you are sheltered by tall pine trees, you come after a long bend to a completely different landscape on the right. Volcanic ash, lava, rocks and centuries-old erosion create a surreal landscape that makes you feel like you are on another planet. In some places the wind blows relentlessly between the conical rocks, and we sometimes even have to get off the bike for a moment. With a wind trauma I once suffered on Mont Ventoux, I am not immune to the wind gusts. I squeeze my handlebars tightly and hope that there won’t be any new scars today.
Part 1 = check!
Suddenly, a long straight stretch appears. The first part of the climb up El Teide is complete. Now the relatively flatter part through the Nature Reserve awaits, followed by another 8 kilometers of elevation gain as a sweet finish. After a bit of typical climbing pain and tingling fingers, I feel good. Let the last few elevation meters come. As happens sometimes during a climb, I switch with Davide, who then climbs a little faster and then a little slower. And then, suddenly, the road starts to descend again.
Long descent
The last one was caught about fifty kilometers from the Vuelta al Teide It actually covers one long descent. Although the middle part goes through beautiful forest, where a fairytale-like mist lands in small droplets on your still warm body, this part of the route can actually be stolen away from me. I’m not a big fan of downhill, and at these speeds it’s a lot harder to enjoy the surroundings. So I’m happy when I reach the finish line under the Puerto de Cruz arch after 95 kilometers. There’s paella, cold beer and salty nuts. There’s a real medal and a whole bunch of cycling friends. It smells of the sea, of sweat and sunscreen. There are tan lines and bruises and proud faces, and I’m enjoying it to the fullest. What a week this has been.
From wheels and windmill sails to breathtaking Anaga. From lighthouse magic to the Vuelta al Teide. Cycling in Tenerife is truly fantastic: a volcanic island with many hidden cycling gems. The greatest cycling adventures are not just for the daredevils, after all..
Questions & tips
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