The wind has free rein over the flat Zeeland countryside. No VAM mountain here, or other hilly obstacle. Everything here is flat. The only mountain you come across is a Dutch Mountain. Also known among connoisseurs as 'the wind'. One of my first vivid memories of Zeeland, is a reference to the wind. When the ferry between Breskens and Vlissingen was taken out of service, it was mentioned on the radio. It was always on at our place and almost as often I heard reports of the ferry being taken out of service. Zeeland and the wind are condemned to each other. You can do fantastic graveling here. Cross-border graveling even, because you can borrow from our southern neighbours. The result is a wonderful gravel bike route.
Theo Middelkamp route
Why an introduction about the wind? Not just because of its presence on the second day we were in Zeeuws-Vlaanderen cycling around. But also because of the Theo Middelkamp route that we will partly take. This route also has a storm symbol on the map. Coincidence, or not?
Read also: A Salty Gravel Adventure
Theo Middelkamp was the first Dutch World Champion (1947, Reims) and also the first winner of a Tour stage. 14 July 1936 was one of his best days on the bike. He was a Dutch Belgian or a Belgian Dutchman, whichever way you look at it. Theo was born and raised in Kieldrecht, literally ON the border with the Netherlands and Belgium. This cobbled section on the Theo Middelkamproute, is also on the border with the Netherlands and Belgium. Which in turn makes sense, as Johan Cruijff would say.
Oostburg for starters
The advantage of the wind, though, is that once you have it against you, you have it with you afterwards. We start in Oostburg, near the water tower. On to the east! Once we have flown towards IJzendijke on the wings of the wind, we wait near the windmill, where a small cobbled path invites us to ride up anyway. If only for the photo. The pee and coffee break at the adjacent PLUS supermarket is also handy. The bolus at the PLUS is just of a different quality than the one at St Paul's bakery in Sluis.
That this route is groundbreaking can be interpreted doubly. We ride almost 90 kilometres on mostly unpaved roads. We regularly cross the border in those kilometres. Both in battling the wind, and literally across the national border. Long stretches, crunchy gravel, but sometimes a farm track again. The cobbled section where we see Theo Middelkamp's name again is beautiful. A star in Paris-Roubaix, maximum.
Creeks and banks
We cross another border: namely through the fences at the various creeks, which can just be found in Belgium. The path along the creeks is beautiful, quiet, but you have to cross a fence a few times. Travel companion Terry and I are getting more nimble with the fence. It also makes for beautiful images, with the tall grass moving with the wind. Further down the creeks, we see some anglers staring stoically at their floats. Weather or no weather, they are not going anywhere. Whether they caught anything, at this point, remains to be seen.
Bite to eat
Leaving Belgium again, we arrive at Restaurant de Grens in Eede. We receive an extremely friendly welcome. The coffee is exactly what you would expect and the accompanying lunch provides renewed energy on our trip. Because we are not there yet. A brief explanation of the local dialect (IJzendijke is actually 'Iezendieke', but also Oostburg is apparently equivalent to 'Woesburg'. It almost sounds like Woefburg, from the 'Go-dog-Go' series, which happens to be a favourite with my children. I leave the 'lèkstok' (right, a lollipop) aside.
Alone in the world
What is striking on our travelling days is that few people conquer the beautiful gravel paths of Zeeuws-Vlaanderen with us. What's hot: in three full days of cycling, we meet literally no one on the dirt. Perhaps the locals like to keep it that way, but we prefer to shout: COME HERE!
Behind the church
We now cross along church paths through the meadow. Nice views left and right, nice hard gravel under the wheels. We turn further, back towards our starting point. Here we have a really nice long stretch, grey gravel ahead of us. We follow the adjacent canal and, with the sun still a little in our faces, it is enjoyable! Zeeuws-Vlaanderen is showing its best side. We pop along another beautiful path, screened by tall trees. It really could be less, they would say in Groningen.
That not everything is rosy is clear from the weather on this day. We cycled hard, but at the end we really had to sprint towards the finish to avoid getting completely soaked. Because the weather gods have sent a great deal of water from the sea in our direction. With a small drop on our helmet, but with a satisfied feeling, we steer back into the beautiful driveway of 'the Breydelhoeve' on. Retranchement is starting to feel more and more like home. In that respect, a boundary has also been crossed. We love coming here.
Book your stay at the Breydelhoeve
Tips on the region
- Nowhere is the pastry more delicious than at Sint Paulus in Sluis. Earlier we referred to the Bolus, but if you visit again on a second day, the bread pudding is just as recommended.
- In Sint Anna ter Muiden, you drive through a protected townscape. If you have time, check out the restored Dutch Reformed church!
- In IJzendijke you will find the Museum 't Bolwerk, the museum on the State-Spanish lines.
- Our lunch was at Restaurant de Grens in Eede. Perfect so on our route.
- In our basecamp Retranchement you will find the beautiful Standerdmolen From 1818. Once good for a good wind load.
