The Balkans have received a lot of attention recently. Not only because of the Transdinarica Route, which appeared in LonelyPlanet's 'best experiences 2024'. But also because the COVID-19 crisis caused people in general and cyclists in particular to look for less crowded holiday areas. Areas previously skipped were and are suddenly becoming popular. The relatively small country of Albania is one of them. Although Albania is not necessarily known for its outstanding cycling infrastructure, in reality it is different. There is more than enough to do for any cyclist. Now let's turn our attention to the beautiful coastal town of Vlöre (or Vlora, as it is written/spoken in the local language). This is where Albania lies at your feet. Will you join us?
Eurovelo 8 along the coast
Vlorë is geographically located at the level of Lecce in Italy. For several years, the city has been part of the Eurovelo network. The Eurovelo 8 - Mediterranean Cycle Route - runs from Andalusia all the way through to Turkey, near Izmir, and even as far as Cyprus. Along the way, you follow the Mediterranean coast, from Spain, through France, across Italy towards the Balkans. So there you enter Albania and Vlöre awaits you as a wonderful stopover. It is one of the important economic centres in Albania and the boat to Italy (Brindisi) also departs from here. You can drive part of this route, for instance from Dürres to Igoumenitsa (in Greece) or earlier from Tirana. The part along the Albanian Riviera (from Vlöre to the south) is perhaps the most beautiful.
Cycling destination Albania: stunning climbs
That coastal routes are by no means flat like those in the Netherlands should be obvious. So you can follow the EV8 from Vlöre and then, heading south, you'll come across a nice climb pretty soon. The Llogara pass is one to frame. With 10 kilometres at an average of 7% and peaks close to 10%, you have a wonderful challenge on your hands. This is something many alpine climbs can learn a lesson from. You can tackle this climb very well from Vlöre. You will have to cycle up and down it (and if you are looking for an extra challenge, you can continue to Dhërmi for a break and then back up and down again). But this is one of the nicer climbs in Albania. Do note that the climb from Dhermi is a bit longer and has an outlier to 13%.
Llogara Pass, Vlora, Albania, Albania
- Distance: 10.7 km, Elevation: 774 m, Avg. Grade: 7.1 %
Round Region and round Brataj
Alternatively, you can opt for a longer adventure in the region and do a 400-kilometre round trip that travels over the Llogara pass towards Dhërmi and then back up via Sarande and Gjirokaster. Then you catch all the highlights of the region. The first part you then follow the coastline and drive back inland. Of course, you can also ride it the other way round. One of the other routes that are fun to do from Vlöre, according to Jared Fontaine who runs a local travel agency there, is the following. A road cycling route towards Brataj, which heads inland. Hilly, enough altimeters so for a hefty day on the bike. Plus peace and quiet (and away from the coast).
Where to start
Cycling destination Albania, it sounds nice, but you need some tips before you go:
- You go completely self-supported. You can get a long way by public transport or you can follow a longer section of the EV8, for example.
- Note that travelling by train in Albania is no mean feat. Your best option to get to Vlöre is probably by train to Brindisi (Italy) and from there the direct boat to Vlöre. Brindisi is a major hub for boat traffic to Albania and various ports/islands in Greece anyway
- Going for more convenience? A new airport is under development, making a direct connection to Vlöre a possibility. It will be available from 2025 (it will ws be 2026...) Otherwise you will have to rely on Tirana and then local transport
- There are a number of parties offering organised tours in the region. Among them. Vlora Cycling Camp by Jared Fontaine offers a wide range of services, including bike rental, support, complete trips and more
- The number of bike shops in the region is not very high, but if you encounter problems you will find that the locals are happy to help you. Even behind the most ramshackle doors, you can find a fine workshop where your bike will be brought back to life.
- That said: don't expect them to stock the latest parts for, say, Di2 or SRAM AXS everywhere. If you go with your own bike, some essentials might come in handy.
- There is NO Visa requirement for residents of the Schengen area. Do you have a different passport? Then check out Albania Tourism's Site for more info.
Want to know more about Albania and its cycling options? Then also check out these articles about this region:
