In this blog, I will take you on an unforgettable adventure through beautiful South-West Friesland. A province with breathtaking landscapes, picturesque villages and friendly people. Whether you are an avid cyclist or just a nature lover, you will definitely be charmed by what Friesland has to offer. Follow our cycling tour and hopefully it will inspire you to have your own cycling adventure in Friesland. This time, we will ride the Elfdorpentocht in two stages and will explore south-west Friesland by bike.

Text and photos: Mark Heij

A special place: It Bûterhus

We are staying at It Bûterhus in Balk, in the 'Sun' room. This room, with a lovely terrace, kitchen and an antique double bed is a real eye-catcher. During my conversations with Engelien, I understood that It Bûterhus is not only a lunchroom and B&B, but also fulfils a nice role in Balk.

It Bûterhus is a place where people with disabilities get the chance to develop themselves and get to work. This makes spending the night there extra special.

Cycling adventure in South-West Friesland

Our Frisian cycling adventure began in Woudsend at the Elfstegentocht (not to be confused with the Elfstedentocht). The Elfstegentocht is a trip through 11 alleys that have a special place in the history of Woudsend.


After Woudsend, I continue the journey to Heeg, where I shove a delicious oranjekoek and a Frisian thumbnail down my throat at the local bakery. It strikes me that great smells come out of every Frisian bakery, so you don't want to miss them. After Heeg, the sun starts to break through and the weather becomes very pleasant. When you ride in Friesland, nature doesn't always cooperate with you. During the ride, the wind bothered me a lot, but now that I get the wind at my back and the sun starts to shine, it's just enjoyable.

From Woudsend you cycle past the villages of Oudega, Makkum (of the pottery) and Koudum and Frisian Elfstedenstad Hindeloopen. Each of them beautiful old villages, each with its own history. The photos speak for themselves.

After Hindeloopen, I ride towards Oudemirdum as the scenery slowly changes. The polder area becomes a forest and the flat polder becomes hilly. I slowly ride up a mound without noticing. I am hugely surprised by this new environment which, in my opinion, looks a lot like the Veluwe. There is actually a hill (terp) in Friesland that also requires you to exert more power than the polder. A pleasant surprise!

In Oudemirdum I eat another delicious piece of cake and pedal towards Balk after which, at Lifeguard Keimpe dinner awaits. A beautiful restaurant on the Slotermeer lake where you can find ultimate relaxation after a long day in the saddle.

Friesland and the water

When visiting Friesland, a tour of the Ing. D.F. Woudaemaal not be missed. This pumping station is the only working steam pumping station in the world and part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Henk gives me a beautiful and interactive tour where we looked at Friesland's water challenges. Inside the pumping station, you can see the way why this wonderful piece of engineering is still in operation around eight times a year today, The Wouda Pumping Station helps Friesland, together with its 1,000 other pumping stations, overcome the water in times of need.

Cycling and coffee in Joure

After the tour of the Woudagemaal, I continued in the direction of Joure for a delicious cup of coffee at VanMark, the only cycling café in Friesland (I'm told). They make their own coffee in the roastery so be sure to take some fresh beans with you when you are there! The cafe is full of shirts of famous pros like Ramon Sinkeldam and Mathieu van der Poel. So are you near Joure by bike? Then be sure to visit VanMark to sample Friesland's cycling culture over a good cup of coffee.

Not enough of a coffee? Then drop by the Oranjerie in Joure for a delicious lunch by the harbour. In a beautiful monumental building, it is also perfect for taking some photos of your bike.

Our tour then continues towards Terherne, the Chameleon village. This is the village where the famous books of the Chameleon are set. After Terherne, take the ferry at Langweer to end your tour in Balk.

Conclusion: South West Friesland on your bucket list?

Having never been to Friesland myself, I had few expectations. Friesland has revealed itself as a beautiful part of the Netherlands with a rich history, beautiful nature and friendly people. No wonder it was also ranked #3 in the Lonely Planet best of Europe 2018.

What has stayed with me immensely is the hospitality of the people I met. For cyclists, it is a beautiful part of the Netherlands where you can cycle through different villages. Of course, the big tour for amateur cyclists is the Elfstedentocht by bike, but I would also definitely recommend exploring Friesland by bike outside of that. 

Want to know more about South West Friesland or other parts of this beautiful province? Go to the Visit Friesland website or follow them at @visit.friesland on instagram! We are curious to hear about your trips in Friesland and tag us with @cyclingdestination.cc for a mention.

Cycling routes in South-West Friesland

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