Cycling in Liguria: ‘Vai, vai, forza, forza!’

When you say the flower Riviera, you don't immediately think of cycling. But when you say San Remo, the Ligurian seaside resort where the finish of the spring classic Milan-San Remo takes place, many hearts of cyclists beat faster. When spring arrives, the Liguria What has long since begun, we see on television the professional cyclists in action. La Primavera Riding along the iconic dome of Porto Maurizio on television is a must. Even as an amateur cyclist, it’s great to ride there. We interviewed Moniek van der Velden, who runs the beautiful B&B Casa La Salita in the region. With her tips, Liguria becomes your new favorite destination in Italy.

Cycling in Liguria is a big surprise

In Liguria, after every bend, a new surprise awaits you. Sometimes the climb is more challenging than expected and you end up with your legs shaking from the effort. Then again, you cycle in complete zen, enjoying the breathtaking landscape with views of an azure sea and lush peninsulas. “The senses are fully engaged here,” says Moniek van der Velden. She is crazy about Italy and runs B&B Casa la Salita. “All year round, fragrant shrubs and cacti bloom beautifully. Every time, in the distance, a colorful village appears against a mountain ridge.”

This is Italy

You will encounter it as a cyclist in Italy. In every hamlet you will find a cozy piazza where you can sit on the terrace of the trattoria Having a delicious espresso or cappuccino. Or having a great pasta meal to get your energy back up. “As a cyclist, you’re actually welcomed with enthusiasm everywhere. Cycling is a passion for the Italian, Cycling is a passionYou shouldn't be surprised either if you're already being cheered on by spectators on the race bike with: “Go, go, go, go!” According to Moniek.

Around Bajardo

After two cycling holidays in Liguria in 2019, Moniek knew for sure: I want to be here more often. “I found a house in Coldirodi, on a cape at an altitude of 250 meters, with San Remo on one side and Ospedaletti on the other. “The versatility and the mild climate appealed to me. San Romolo is located in the very countryside. I like to cycle through this nature reserve to Bajardo. It’s just a 20-kilometer climb, and then you already peak above 1,000 meters and descend three kilometers to Bajardo. The mountain village has only a few hundred inhabitants. Because it’s quite isolated, it has retained its own character. You eat Brandacajun, a dish of potatoes with stoccafisso, cod in Dutch and a delicious fresh ravioli with Cucumbers herb, cucumber herb that is hardly served anywhere anymore.” 

Rather stay flat than climb

But what if you don’t like climbing and you’d rather cycle along the coast? For those cyclists, there’s the Pista Ciclabile. This cycle path along the coast of the flower coast was built over an old railway line. It’s now 30 kilometers long and will continue to grow. On this lightly undulating cycle path, you won’t be bothered by cars; it’s the perfect spot for a time trial with your cycling friends. “The silence is nice. Scooters aren’t allowed here either. August is the holiday month; go early in the morning,” advises Moniek. “Especially on Sunday afternoons, parents with children also cycle.”

It's great to explore the coast via the Pista Ciclabile

Along this bike path, you can explore the beautiful coast in a short time. You cycle via Ospedaletti, Sanremo, Bussana, Arma di Taggia and Santo Stefano to Imperia. Old railway stations have been converted into tavernas And along the bike path, resting areas have been created between the pine trees and palm trees, where you can enjoy the view of the sea. Moniek: “Fun fact: In 2015, the time trials of the Giro d’Italia were held on the newly constructed Pista Ciclabile. In some places, you can still see the Giro pink, like in the historic train tunnels. The old train tunnels are in themselves special to cycle in. You can also see black-and-white photos of great cycling heroes like Fausto Coppi, Vincenzo Nibali, and Eddy Merckx. If you take the time, you can also read the information about victories in cycling.”

Sanremo is Cipressa and the Poggio

The famous climbs from Milan-San Remo are Cipressa and Poggio. The Cipressa climb is 5.6 kilometers long and has an average gradient of 4.1%. The Poggio is 3.7 kilometers long and has an average gradient of 3.7%. Moniek: “These are not the most challenging climbs. However, they are incredibly fun to tackle. Keep in mind that the professional riders have already driven 250 kilometers from Milan at the start of the climb towards Poggio at that moment. And of course, Poggio is the toughest climb in that race. In La Primavera, this is the last chance to drop the sprinters. After 5.5 kilometers, you finish descending in the heart of San Remo.” 

Also for the gravel enthusiasts

Cyclists and mountain bikers also find plenty of fun in Liguria. In the forests of the San Romolo nature reserve, just above San Remo, there are countless challenging trails. Moniek: “From Casa La Salita You are looking out at a mountain behind which Seborga lies, a once self-proclaimed autonomous principality with its own currency. I wanted to see this and I knew it! It is a super beautiful gravel route that rises to 500 meters above sea level. Beautiful but also very strenuous.” Moniek laughs that she is not a quitter but that the route had to be adapted to reality. “I never saw Seborga. I didn’t expect that there was so much climbing and that it was so exciting and technical cycling. As soon as the descent could be taken on to Madonna della Neva, it was taken on,lip sliding about the gravel. But it was totally worth it: the desolate tranquility in nature and the view of an always sparkling blue sea. Down at the coast, I drank the reward in the beach bar L’Anciua: a Birra Moretti. This tastes like more. Just to discover Seborga again.”

More bicycles in Italy? then check out our ‘Cycling in Italy‘ page. More information about cycling in Liguria and bookings of the B&B of Moniek can be found here.