When you say flower Riviera, you don't immediately think of cycling. But say San Remo, the Ligurian seaside resort where the finish of spring classic Milano-San Remo takes place every year, many a cyclist's heart beats faster. When spring arrives in Liguria has long since begun, we see on television the professional cyclists in La Primavera thunder past Porto Maurizio's iconic dome on television. As an amateur cyclist, cycling there is also good. We interviewed Moniek van der Velden, who runs the beautiful B&B Casa La Salita in the region. With her tips, Liguria will become your new favourite destination in Italy.
Cycling in Liguria is a big surprise
In Liguria, a new surprise awaits you after every turn. Sometimes the climb is more erratic than expected and you kick your legs out from under you. Then again, you cycle completely zen in cadence enjoying the breathtaking scenery overlooking an azure sea and lush headlands. "The senses are fully engaged here," says Moniek van der Velden. She is crazy about Italy and runs B&B Casa la Salita. "Throughout the year, fragrant shrubs and cacti bloom brightly. Again and again, a colourful village looms in the distance against a mountain ridge."
This is Italy
You're in luck as a cyclist in Italy. In every hamlet you will find a cosy piazza Where you can sit on the terrace of the trattoria drink a delicious espresso or cappuccino. Or where you eat a great pasta to regain your strength. "As a cyclist, you are actually welcomed with enthusiasm everywhere. Cycling is passion for the Italian, Ciclismo è passione! Nor should you be surprised if, while toiling away on your road bike, you are cheered on by spectators with: "Vai, vai, forza, forza!" Moniek said.
Round Bajardo
After two cycling holidays in Liguria in 2019, Moniek knew for sure: this is where I want to be more often. "I found a house there in Coldirodi, on a promontory at an altitude of 250 metres with San Remo on one side and Ospedaletti on the other. "The versatility and mild climate appealed to me. Directly in hinterland is San Romolo. I like to cycle to Bajardo via this nature reserve. Only 20 kilometres of climbing and then you already peak above 1,000 altimeters and descend three kilometres to Bajardo. The mountain village has only a few hundred inhabitants. Being rather isolated, it has retained its own character. For example, in the small square you can eat Brandacajun, a dish of potato with stoccafisso, stockfish in Dutch and a delicious fresh ravioli with erba di cetriolo, cucumber spice that is served almost nowhere anymore."
Rather flat than climbing
But what if you don't like climbing and prefer cycling flat? For that cyclist, there is the Pista Ciclabile. This cycle path along the coast of the Floral Riviera was built over an old railway track. It is now 30 kilometres and will be even longer. On this gently sloping cycle path, you are not bothered by cars, the perfect place for a time trial with your cycling friends. "The silence there is nice. Scooters are not allowed here either. August is holiday month, so go early in the morning," advises Moniek. "Especially on Sunday afternoons, parents with children also cycle here."
Explore the coast via the Pista Ciclabile
This cycle path allows you to explore the beautiful coast in a short time. You cycle via Ospedaletti, Sanremo, Bussana, Arma di Taggia and Santo Stefano to Imperia. Old railway stations have been converted into tavernas and along the cycle path, rest areas have been created among pine trees and palms, where you can enjoy the sea view. Moniek: "Nice to know: In 2015, the time trials of the Giro d'Italia were held on the newly constructed Pista Ciclabile. You can still see the Giro pink in a number of places, such as the historic train tunnels. The old train tunnels in themselves are special to cycle in. You will also see black-and-white photos of great cycling heroes like Fausto Coppi, Vincenzo Nibali and Eddy Merckx. If you take your time then you can also read the information about victories in cycling."
Sanremo is Cipressa and the Poggio
The famous climbs from Milan-San Remo are Cipressa and Poggio. The Cipressa climb is 5.6 kilometres and has an average gradient of 4.1%. The Poggio is 3.7 kilometres and has an average gradient of 3.7%. Moniek: "They are not the most fierce hills. But they are great fun to do. Bear in mind that the pro riders have already ridden 250 kilometres from Milan by the time they turn right towards the Poggio. And, of course, the Poggio is the decisive climb in that race. In La Primavera, this is the last chance to unload sprinters. After 5.5 kilometres you finish downhill in the heart of San Remo."
Also for gravelers
Gravel lovers and MTB enthusiasts also get their money's worth in Liguria. In the forests of the San Romolo nature reserve, just above San Remo, there are numerous challenging trails. Moniek: "From Casa La Salita look out onto a mountain beyond which lies Seborga, a once self-proclaimed autonomous principality with its own currency. This was something I wanted to see and I knew it! It is a super beautiful gravel hike that rises to 500 metres above sea level. Beautiful but also leaden." Moniek laughingly explains that she is not a quitter but that the ride had to be adjusted to reality. "Seborga I never saw. That there was so much climbing in it and that it was so exciting and technical cycling, I didn't expect. As soon as the descent could be deployed to Madonna della Neva, it was deployed, slip sliding across the gravel. But it was totally worth it: the desolate calm of nature and the view of an always sparkling blue sea. Down at the coast, I drank the reward in beach bar L'Anciua: a Birra Moretti. This tastes like more. Just to discover Seborga again."
More cycling in Italy? check out our 'cycling in Italy' page. For more info on cycling in Liguria and bookings at Moniek's B&B, find here.
