Time for a comprehensive account of my experience cycling in the majestic Dolomites. Together with Rik, I went on a week-long exploration trip in the summer. For me, this was the very first time I ventured among the rocky peaks in this cycling paradise. It was a journey to never forget, for several reasons…
From the Netherlands to Italy
Having a companion with whom you can chat easily is a plus when you take the car. From central Holland, it’s already about a good 14 hours of driving (including about 2 hours of rest time). Fortunately, in our case that’s more than good, and we drove through Germany and Austria to Italy in comfort. On the way, we stopped for a smoothie bowl in Heidelberg, because good and healthy food is of course important when you’re practically hunched over in the car for almost the entire day. In itself, the road to Tyrol is a feast. At the height of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, the high mountain begins, and the views are even magnificent from the highway.
A warm welcome at Hotel Melodia del Bosco
In the end, we arrived in the dark at 20:00 in the evening. Hotel Melodia del Bosco. A first impression is always special, but we were immediately very enthusiastic about the accommodation we found. And the extremely warm welcome only strengthened our enthusiasm even more. The hotel is luxurious and comfortably equipped, and at a particularly reasonable price.
About the food…
After arriving, we could immediately join the queue for dinner. And with that, we were in for a treat! First of all, a big compliment to the service. Throughout the week, we were superbly taken care of during breakfast and dinner. The breakfast buffet was extensive and provided everything you need, even for dietary requirements. And the dinner was a feast every day. You could choose from two menus: a meat or fish menu, and a vegetarian menu. The portions were perfect, and the range was very diverse.
Fully equipped with all comforts
The hotel is fully equipped with everything you need. A spacious storage shed, of course with a lock, for the bikes including tools, lubricants and a drying area. In addition, the hotel is equipped with a sauna, and you can even dry your shoes in the storage area with a machine that is used for ski boots in the winter. In addition, the sauna and wellness area are a very welcome addition. You can book a massage in the early morning so that you can prepare your muscles for your next challenge that day. In short: Hotel Melodia del Bosco is a paradise for the sporty cyclist.
Day 1 – Good preparation is half the work
After a wonderful night of sleep and breakfast, it was time for the first ride. A moment we had of course looked forward to with great anticipation. The bikes were completely ready, the sun was shining, and the focus was entirely on enjoying the first day. We planned the routes in the morning itself, or the day before we went to bed. This first day led us over the Campolongo Pass, the Passo di Giau, and finally over the Passo di Falzarego. The Campolongo Pass was a great starter. A gradual climb, with not too crazy elevation percentages. But then for me the misery began…
About the Passo di Giau: what a monster it is! It’s good to briefly outline some context. My experience with climbing has so far been limited to the Alps, the Central Massif, and the Vosges. And for climbing rates in double digits, I have never hesitated. The Eyserbosweg, the Muur van Huy, or La Redoute are no problem for my strong Dutch build and sprint talent. But to have to face climbing rates of around 10-11% kilometers for my entire body for long stretches was not something I was used to. And so I had not taken into account that I would end up coming in poorly with a 36-28 as my lowest resistance. In my worst moments, I would pedal at a pace of around 40, causing the acidity to build up so quickly that I had to stop about ten times. Oh, I wasn’t prepared for that…
Fortunately, I had already got it right at the second bike shop that afternoon, and I was able to install an 11-32 cassette that afternoon. And that turned out to be a good thing, because the first day was enough to conclude that the narrow, winding trails in the Dolomites are by no means an exception.
This route starts with the Campolongo. In this capacity, a delicious amuse-bouche that sets the tone for what is to come. Feel free to write it down: the Passo di Giau from Selva di Cadore and the Passo di Falzarego from Pocol are definitely on your bucket list. The Passo di Giau is tough, but it rewards you with stunning views and a mind-blowing descent. The Passo di Falzarego, however, is quite doable, especially if you take the Passo di Giau as a reference point.
Day 2 – A wonderful return trip to Pederü
Having had our first encounter with the Dolomites, we decided that a slightly shorter route with relatively few elevation changes wouldn’t be entirely unwise. After some research, we ended up choosing the Pederü.
Thanks to the high cliffs on both sides, you feel like you’re in an American setting, and the incline towards the ‘end point’ is constantly between 2-5%. So it’s quite easy to do, and at the top you can have a delicious coffee and a cake. The downside is that you have to go back the same way, because the paved road ends. However, we didn’t find this a bother, because the surroundings are so diverse and impressive that you hardly notice it.
Day 3: The Würz and Grödnerjoch
It’s strange that these two passes are called by the German name for me, while I have memorized the Italian name for the other passes and prefer it. In fact, every pass has three names here. People here speak Italian, German and Ladinisch. By the way, everyone at the hotel spoke English, so don’t worry about a possible language barrier!
The Würzjoch (or Passo delle Erbe) from Mantana comes in two parts and provides some stunning views. It looks a bit more picturesque and less rugged here. After a magnificent descent to Klausen, this route follows a relatively long stretch through the valley before you turn left and begin the Grödnerjoch (Passo Gardena) from Ponte Gardena. This was the longest climb we did on this trip with 32 kilometers. Just before you reach the top, you pass a truly stunning section of the Dolomites where you can see peaks up to over 3,000 meters.
Day 4 – Sella Ronda from Alta Badia
You have to have ridden the Sella Ronda of course! This is by far the most famous route in this corner of the Dolomites. Once a year, on a Sunday in September, this route is actually car-free (Sella Ronda Bike Day).
The Sella Ronda includes the Passo Gardena from Corvara, the Passo Sella from Plan de Gralba, the Passo Pordoi from Canazei and the Passo Campolongo from Arabba. The gradients are manageable, and the length of the climbs is moderate because you stay relatively high.
We wrote about it, by the way already mentioned about the Sella Ronda!
Day 5 – Fedaia Madness
Did you find the Passo di Giau a monster? Well, then you haven’t met the Passo Fedaia yet. It’s not the Mortirolo, but it is ‘the little sister of’. The trick lies in the tail, because after a steady start, you only get the real work in the second half. With a maximum gradient of 18% and 15.6% over 100 meters, you still get a kind of Wall of Huy in the middle of a tough climb. I found it quite tough!
After warming up again with the Campolongo, the route follows the Passo Fedaia after a short warmup. Once above, there is a beautiful reservoir, and views of the high peaks surrounding the Grotta della Madonna. After the Passo Fedaia, the route follows the Passo Sella from Canazei. It is also a tough climb, but after the Passo Fedaia, everything is easy and less steep. Then, with this route, you can also tackle the steep part of the Grödnerjoch, before descending back towards Alta Badia.
Day 6 – Furkelpass and Passo Valparola
On the last day, I could feel the altitude meters in my legs. I still rode the Furkelpass smoothly, but after that the game really started to take its toll. Despite that, it was still enjoyable. Along the way, we stopped at Lago di Misurina for coffee, cola, and cake. Again, a stunning place, but then a just as stunning descent.
We ended up doing the Falzarego-Valparola combo, where it started to rain halfway through. I was really exhausted. And because I wasn’t making any progress, I built up quite a deficit. Rik waited upstairs under an awning to get the camera safe. Once we were up, it turned out the first part of the descent was dry. What luck! It wasn’t until we were almost at the bottom that hell broke loose. It felt like a wall of rain was coming down.
We arrived at the hotel exhausted, after which the ‘get warm again protocol’ was initiated. Once we had calmed down, we came to the conclusion that these were the rides that stick in your mind. Heroic, and thus an ode to cycling in the majestic Dolomites.
Final conclusion
The Dolomites are undoubtedly a must-see. It is stunning there; you drive over predominantly well-maintained roads and one after another fantastic colines appear. Hotel Melodia del Bosco is a perfect base for an amazing cycling adventure.
Some tips:
- Make sure you have a good rain and wind jacket! In the afternoon, a rain front sometimes forms, and if you’re driving in it, you better be prepared (or at least be less lazy than we were).
- Take a day off every now and then. It’s steeper than you might be used to, and that makes a ride quite intense quickly.
- Bring enough cash with you, because they don't have a cash machine at all coffee shops yet! And oh yeah, a cola is quite expensive at €3.25…
- A climbing harness is an absolute must if you're going hiking in the Dolomites. With a 34 in front and 32 behind, you play it safe.
- Drinking water is key! Luckily, you’ll encounter plenty of water points along the way. Whenever you come across one, always refill it if you’re running out of water so you can be sure you won’t be without it.
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.