In the week that in The Netherlands brave cyclists with wind force seven and pouring rain during the NK Tegenwindfietsen about the Oosterscheldekering, if I may, Ruth Koops of ’t Jagt Cycling on Gran Canaria. Enjoying the climb in the sun. Not for nothing is this Canary Islands In the winter season, it is a favorite cycling destination for both recreational racers and seasoned pros. With barely a kilometer of flat terrain and temperatures between 23 and 25 degrees, this volcanic island makes an ideal cycling paradise.
By: Ruth Koops of ’t Jagt
Out on a date with Kim
This week I’m traveling with my friend Kim, whom I met during an introductory triathlon course in Groningen in 2017. For ten weeks we swam, ran and cycled together in and around Groningen. Kim, who was once Dutch Champion in freewater swimming, swam us all out, but on the bike we were up for anything. During those 10 weeks, a friendship was formed with being active outdoors as a big common denominator. Even when Kim was diagnosed with MS in 2018, we continued to explore the small and big adventures together. On the mountain bike around Gieten Gasselte, with a skinny dip afterwards. On the race bike in North Groningen, along the creeks of the Wadden coast.
This week I managed to persuade Kim to tackle the mountains of Gran Canaria together. Although Kim is a fervent snowboarder and mountain climber, this is her first time tackling real mountains on a mountain bike on a race bike. But hey, with the surname ‘van den Bergh’ that should work out just fine, even with that damn MS.
Day 1 Cycling in Gran Canaria: reconnaissance ride with Tim instead of Kim
We are staying in the beautiful Dunas Suites & Villas, With its lovely apartments, a swimming pool for a refreshing dip, and an extensive breakfast and dinner buffet, it’s no wonder this is a beloved accommodation for cyclists. You can see that right away at the location of Free Motion Bikes, which is practically next to the reception, and the many guests wearing tan-lines and bib shorts. In February, the sun rises around quarter past 8, a great opportunity to explore the beautiful beach with a short run.
On the beach
Along the drained canal and the nature reserve and bird paradise of La Charca de Maspalomas you arrive at Playa de Maspalomas, a beach that is shielded from tourist development by the rugged dunes of Dunas de Maspalomas. In the early morning you share the beach with only early fishermen, hikers and other runners who run barefoot through the surf.
Although the sun is obscured by the Calima, a warm and dry east wind that blows dust from the Sahara into the air, it is already quite warm half an hour later. Fortunately, the breakfast buffet at Dunas is generous, with a wide selection of fresh juices, pancakes, yogurt and fresh fruit.
Out on the road with Tim
This first day Kim is still on his way from the Netherlands and a reconnaissance ride is planned with Tim, my husband who thanks to the generous offer of my mother-in-law also traveled last minute to cycle on Gran Canaria. Using Komoot, I have planned a route from Maspalomas via Sant Bartolome de Tirajana. Cycling on Gran Canaria means climbing. On the way we have to overcome at least two climbs: first to the Mirador Astronómico de la Degollada de las Yeguas (description) and then via Fataga to Sant Bartolomé de Tiranja before descending via Santa Lucia back towards Maspalomas.
About 70 km with about 1369 meters of elevation gain. Since we don’t know how Kim’s body will handle the heat and the elevation gain, I deliberately planned a relatively challenging journey for this first day (without Kim, with the fit Tim). When we set off, the sun was high in the sky and it was hot and sunny. We had to pick up the bikes first, so that was it.
Rap from the saddle
Even before we reach the built-up area properly, the first climb begins. Don't be put off by the view from the first part; it gets better and better! The first stretch is a beautiful climb with gradients between 4 and 8% up to Dellogada de las Yeguas. There you'll find a Mirador: a viewpoint.
Face
From that vantage point, you have breathtaking views of the surrounding volcanic mountains and, with clear weather, you can also see the sea. Around the vantage point are astronomical maps: it is a place from which you can have a magnificent view of the night sky in the dark. After the vantage point, you descend towards Artreara, after which the climb towards Fataga begins. You pass, among other things, an aloe vera plantation, the medicinal plant for which Gran Canaria is known. From a height of 343, you climb up to the village of Fataga, at 617 meters. That is a nice place for a stopover, with several cafes where you can have espresso, café con leche with churros, or a cold glass of cola.
Afterwards, the road winds up in fantastic hairpin bends to San Bartholomé (Tunte). In Tunte you’ll find various terraces where the owners, with a big smile, try to outsmart their customers. This town with its steep, narrow streets is perfect for a lunch or for a non-alcoholic beer before starting the return journey. You can do this by cycling towards Santa Lucia, after which you’ll have to cycle a long stretch down a busy road westwards back towards Maspalomas.
Alternative route
Therefore, many cyclists do not make a round trip, but instead take a one-way trip towards Sant Bartolome de Tirajana (the actual village center is called Tunte), or even further towards Tejeda. If you are going cycling on Gran Canaria, that is also recommended; the descent via Santa Lucia is not very inspiring, and if you cycle the return trip you can once again head up towards Mirador Astronomico, which will allow you to take that beautiful climb again, but from the other side. You can find one of those routes, for example, here:
Before the descent, Tim and I said goodbye; he is after all not only a faster climber, but also a faster descender than me. Once down, I glide along a busy road with a steady headwind back towards Maspalomas. At a bus stop I stop for a moment to check on my phone to see if Tim is still waiting for me somewhere. He texted me around half past five: ’I’m going home by bike. Then I’ll make a sandwich for us and we can eat that at your place. Ok?’ ‘Yes, okay’ I reply briefly but forcefully and continue cycling.
Back home
Just over forty minutes later I arrive back at Dunas Suites & Villa’s. From El Dectoral back to Maspalomas is indeed a serious piece of cycling, even with the wind behind you. My head is a burning heat and exhaustion, my feet are tingling and I’m quite exhausted, but I feel soulfully happy. I smile. What fantastic climbs, what a wonderful, confronting experience to find myself on the bike again like this, and what a beautiful setting. And yet this week of cycling on Gran Canaria has only just begun!
Exhaling on the terrace
While Tim and I are having a sandwich on the terrace in front of my apartment and are drinking toasting wine for this first trip, Kim comes running with her packed backpack. We talk about this first day of cycling and Kim expresses her admiration. ‘And then you also ran hard this morning?’ she asks in surprise. ‘You didn’t underestimate those climbs!’ I laugh back.
The effort today seems to me to be a good reason to plan a slightly lighter ride for tomorrow. Using Komoot, I plan a ride towards Ayagaures for the next day. That’s about 30 km with a little over 500 meters of elevation gain. That should be quite a challenge, even for Kim. But first: eating and sleeping.
Day 2 Maspalomas – Ayagaures
After a hearty breakfast of yogurt and pancakes, we are ready to go. Today we cycle towards the village of Ayagaures, to the Cime Pedro Gonzales. This mountain pass is located on the GC-503 just outside the village of Ayagaures. After you have cycled out of Maspalomas and passed a large water park, turn right onto the GC-504. This quiet road takes you through a beautiful mountain valley through an impressive landscape. The first part is ‘flat as a pancake’, which gives you plenty of time to enjoy the beautiful surroundings. At the end of the road, you cycle through Ayagaures via a series of hairpin bends. If you wish, you can make a stop at Bar Eva.
From the terrace of Bar Eva you have a beautiful view over the valley, and you can encourage the cyclists who manage to conquer that first short climb. The village of Ayagaures is also located on the edge of a large reservoir. You could possibly cycle up a section of the bridge to take a selfie of the reservoir, but be careful of the gravel.
Stopover Bar Eva
Bar Eva It is a popular stopover for other cyclists, but you will also encounter trail runners and hikers. The espresso is hot, the Orange Zuma The fresh ingredients are pressed here and the chocolate tart is a must-try. As Kim and I sit here to blow off that first piece of cake, time flies by. For a moment we assume that this is already the climb, until I turn to Komoot and see that the steepest part still has to come. Reason for Kim to order something more to eat, as extra fuel. On the whiteboard, an avocado salad is touted and that seems like a good choice.
Dreams vs Reality
Until the waiter brings the appropriate salad: the salad turns out to be a large plate of guacamole-like substance, with egg and mayonnaise in it. A sad slice of red pepper tries to garnish it. Kim’s humiliated face needs to be framed, and she bravely tries to take a few bites anyway. After all, the hardest kilometers still have to come. After this dubious lunch, we fill our water bottles with fresh cold water and get back on the road. We have to continue towards the Cime Pedro Gonzales, with a peak at 490 meters.
Keep on being cheerful
We didn’t do any research beforehand about the climbing percentages we’d have to face on this final stretch, and that might have been for the best. After the first stretch that rises and descends in a gentle curve, the real climb begins. We cycle up through long stretches of hairpin bends and long turns. As my heart rate rises, I show Kim how to make the steepest sections more bearable by zigzagging. Then I continue at my own pace. After a long ‘running’ curve, with sections above 12%, I see a scarce spot in the shade. I set my bike against the rocks to wait for Kim. There she turns the bend, her head bloodshot from exertion.
Everything for the photo
She even stops and takes a few steps on her bike with the camera in hand, until she sees me, with my camera in hand. She gets back on and zigzags up the hill. Then she leans against the rock in the shade next to me. As we catch our breath together, we prepare for the final stretch to the summit. Fortunately, that part eases off, and shortly after we arrive, we cheer together. From the viewing platform on top of the Cime Pedro Gonzales, it’s a feast for the eyes. We take a photo together that speaks volumes about the difference between our faces: I grin, enjoying the camera while Kim looks red and excited that she’s still alive after that questionable avocado salad and her first climb on the bike. That one was a bit steeper than we had both thought. Cycling on Gran Canaria is fantastic.
Options for cycling
On top of the summit, you have two options: you can descend further via GC-503, via the village of Monte Léon and Montaña la Data. Be careful when you get down; cars sometimes come from the left, going straight into the bend. Alternatively, you can choose to cycle back the same way towards Ayagaures, then descend gently through the green valley. Many cyclists choose the second, more scenic option.
Downstairs
Today we’ll descend the other way, and let me show Kim how to descend as smoothly as possible (“brake, brake, brake, let go, press on your lower pedal”). Once back in our apartment, we’ll wash off the heat and effort in the fresh pool, and Kim will go to bed with a podcast to take a nap.
Meanwhile, I’m sharing our valley photos and the story of the avocado salad with Tim. He cycled to Taurito today, the end point of the coastal road. According to Tim, that coastal road isn’t very special: there are quite a lot of cars driving along it. The road goes up and down quite a lot. The last stretch of the coastal road to Taurito is the most beautiful: it’s a bit quieter there. From Taurito, you can normally still climb further towards Mogan, but that road is unfortunately closed at the moment.
We end this second day with a beach walk with cola and chips. The sun is slowly sinking towards the horizon, the wind blows the sand into our hair and we look back on a fantastic second cycling day. On to more!
Day 3 Maspalomas – Ayagaures repeats
Because we have a mountain bike tour with a guide scheduled for tomorrow and Kim didn’t get into the cold weather clothes yesterday, she chooses to take a rest day today. For me, this is a great opportunity to show Tim the beautiful route towards Ayagaures. Just before we leave, we hear Ireen Wust winning a gold medal at her fifth Olympic Games.
Adrenaline rush
Full of supporters’ adrenaline, we cycle towards the valley. Today the wind blows from the North, which means an extra challenge. On Tim’s bike, I head towards the foot of the real climb. Bar Eva is closed on Mondays, so unfortunately we have to do without the famous avocado salad. I find a nice cadence and this time cycle up the mountain in one go. As I head back to Maspalomas after descending, Tim and I wave to each other: he’s going to do another lap soon while I cycle back to the shade. Time to catch up with a good book in the shade.
This is typically a route that doesn’t get boring quickly: the undulating road through the green valley to Ayagaures, a short, serious climb with challenging gradient percentages, and a fantastic view at the top. Very suitable for a round if you have less time, or as a training round where you can play with heart rate zones and tempo changes.
Beautiful ending
We celebrate Wust's gold medal and the end of this wonderful cycling day with games, beer and chips, and then go out to dinner at the Italian restaurant. Restaurant Time, At , where they serve impeccable pasta and the waitress treats us to a homemade Limoncello. We almost go down in a knockdown after that delicious meal. The sun and the alcohol make us want to get into bed early. Tomorrow Kim and I are going on a trip with Santiago, a mountain bike guide at his own company. Climbo , in the beautiful mountain range in the middle of the island.
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.