When you go cycling in Crans-Montana, the bike sky is actually at your feet. That may sound a bit exaggerated, but there is certainly a kernel of truth in it. From the village, you can, among other things, see the Sanetschpas climbing, which is also Switzerland’s best-kept secret. In addition, you have the opportunity to visit all the hydroelectric dams and reservoirs. Within cycling distance, there are Grand-Dixence, Lake Tseuzier and Lac de Moiry. With a short drive you can also get there Emosson Dam Attach. We offer an additional option. Take the train and head to Brig. You can, among other things, ride the Simplon Pass, but if you’re even more adventurous, you can ride the Furkapass, Nufenen or even the San Gottardo or Gotthard Pass. We’d prefer to do all three at the same time. We choose the Fur cap. Spoiler: If you go cycling in Crans-Montana This is a must-do.
text: Sander Kolsloot, photos: Ruben Hoogland/Sander Kolsloot
The story of a hotel
If you Fur cap says, then that is almost synonymous with Hotel Belvédère. This is perhaps one of the most photographed hotels in the world. It is the most famous hotel in the Alps, especially when it comes to cycling and hairpin bends. A bit of history about this hotel: it was once built in 1882, after the construction of the Furkastrasse, The mountain pass. The hotel has a rich history, where setbacks in the economic field are also a common thread. The strategic location of the hotel, as part of the first Alpine post bus route in 1921, has long ensured that the hotel has had a steady flow of guests and revenue.
James Bond
In the 1960s, the hotel’s security of existence changed. The road was widened, the cars became more powerful, and as a result the need for an overnight stay at Belvédère decreased. Ironically, it might have been the scene from the film Goldfinger, in which James Bond (Sean Connery) breaks through the Furkapass in 1964, the beginning of the end. Although according to legend, Connery slept in the hotel and often returned later, it is precisely the speed and power of the cars that are the reason why the hotel was unable to survive. There have been several attempts to renovate the hotel and revive it. Since 2015, after an earthquake that closed off the road, the hotel has been empty.
Where to start
If you want to start at the Furkapass, there are several options. Of course, there is the possibility to drive up from Andermatt. Since we are departing from Crans-Montana, our starting point is on the ‘Valais’ side of the climb. The border with the canton Uri is located on top of the pass. You can almost start from Brig, but then it is a very long and relatively boring hike to the foot. By car, it is advisable to drive to Ulrichen. You can also take the train to this mountain village. From here, you have two options: the Furkapass or the Nufenenpass. The first 5 kilometers are flat, which makes for a great day program.
Furkapass, Obergoms, Switzerland
• Distance: 10.2 km, Elevation difference: 650 m, Average gradient: 6.3 %
Watch out for other road users
One thing is certain: with the Furkapass, you are never alone. There is traffic from early morning until late at night. At midday it is at its peak. You are overtaken on the left and right by drivers of all kinds and sizes. The Porsche fan club, the Lamborghinis and Ferraris, to name a few. It’s a constant flow of mostly male drivers who have something to prove. A tip for cyclists: go to the edges of the day and if you are there in the middle of the day anyway: drive on the right and watch out for yourself. Because even without these road users, caution is a must. Touring cars, weekend drivers and campers are the biggest risk of accidents. Use your common sense and do not take unnecessary risks. After all, you are not being paid to cycle.
Choices
Where to start? You can choose: should I start with Nufenen and Gotthard first? Should I ride the Furkapass up and straight back down? Or should I also go for the Grimsel PassThis one starts after about six kilometers from Oberwald. On a plateau, the road splits into two beautiful routes, both with amazing hairpin bends. So you take a left at the Grimsel Pass, or a right towards the Furka Pass. You are already six kilometers into the journey and these six kilometers don’t disappoint either. You drive a bit sheltered among the trees. Along the way you pass by the hotel Rhonequelle, where many motorcyclists are enjoying a drink. It winds up really nicely. The percentages here, with an average of five to eight percent, are very good to achieve. Don’t forget to look around, because the view of the mountains behind you is stunning!
Choice made
For us, the choice between a continuation and a detour is clear. The goal is to reach the Furkapass and, at the old hotel/museum in Gletsch, we turn right. This is where the real fun begins. On this stretch, the road runs very gently uphill. While I look out the window, the speedometer doesn’t go above seven percent. What a relief! You need that air to enjoy the magnificent view. You look through a valley towards the RhÔnegletsjer or what remains of it. You can also see Hotel Belvédère, a nice landmark. The road winds like a snake along the mountain wall. For a few kilometers, there are no hairpin bends and suddenly you turn onto a section of track, left towards the ‘back wall’. This is where it starts to get more intense again. For a moment, the climb reaches its peak. Wahoo Above twelve percent. That’s just the start. But the reward awaits, at Belvédère, about a kilometer below the top.
Instagram vs reality
If I have learned anything in recent years, it’s that reality on social media can be quite different from reality in real life. On most photos of this hotel, the road is beautifully empty; there’s no one in the parking lot, and the subject in the photo is the only person in the world. The hotel also always seems ‘open’, and it looks like someone is bringing drinks right away, or a hotel guest is opening the curtains. In reality, everything is different. It’s a constant flow of different types of traffic. The parking lot is packed. If you want to take a photo, everything has to be perfect. That means the scruffy German man shouldn’t just park his motorcycle in your shot. Or the man who places his camper right in the beautiful picture; he has to go home for a bit. The bus with the 55+ people that was released must not even be mentioned.
The view
What we are really talking about here: the amazing view towards the Rhone valley. It’s incredible to see what nature has in store for us as humans. That might sound philosophical, but it’s really impressive. You can be quite moved by it. That’s a unique experience for me. Many of those who know me will agree with me. I too am moved by it for another reason. The Rhone glacier is almost completely gone. Warming of the area has shortened the glacier by an incredible one kilometer (!) It seems irreversible, but man what a waste. Also to be moved by: the man who first asks me if this is the Furkastrasse, only to then ask where he can find the glacier. He apparently still has an old Lonely Planet.
Last few meters
You almost forget it, but the top of the pass isn’t near the hotel. You have to cycle another about a kilometer there. From the top, on the border between Valais-Wallis and Uri, you can look down into the valley on both sides of this mountain. The side from Andermatt is a bit steeper, but definitely worth it. Only for this story it’s a bit less interesting. We head up and at the sign ‘Furkapass’ we make a right turn. We have a beautiful 16 kilometers of descent ahead of us. With the sun a little behind the clouds and a fresh breeze, I take the Busti From Etxeondo from the back pocket and I'm going to start with it. No pain at all and just warm enough.
Descending with a view
The climb up was already spectacular. The descent is perhaps even more beautiful. The asphalt is of very good quality. Only the last kilometers of the descent, the first of the climb, have some worn-out marks in the inner curve. Otherwise, it’s just nice to stroll and ride. Because the climb isn’t particularly steep, you also have a little more time to look around. Or rather: to enjoy the view. Because the Rhone Valley continues to attract attention. The only downside is the participants, mainly on motorcycles, from the ZK. Especially just before a bend, catching up is reason for disqualification, if you ask me. Well, yeah. Those men need to get out of there too, I guess.
Down there
Before you know it, you’re already in Glitsch. I even think to myself: turn right towards Grimsel? These are inviting hairpin bends. The French word for them is also very beautiful: serpentines. Beautiful. In the last six kilometers down the road, it’s all about braking. A few cars and motorcycles form a column that we can’t pass. Pay attention for a moment; a few hundred meters before the RhoneQuelle hotel, you drive through a tunnel. It’s only 10 meters long, but there are child seats in it. That’s a ‘shock to the system’.
Ride and load
The last five kilometers from Oberwald to Ulrichen are a straight line. We drive over the main road, on the big windmill. Delicious. When we return to the parking lot in the village, there’s another nice surprise waiting for us. Our electric car is once again fully charged to 100%. Nothing more to do then. We get in and set off towards Region Dents du Midi, For the second part of our trip. To be continued. But in short: Crans-Montana, what a wonderful place you are. A delight to stay and drive around in.
Accommodation: Alaïa Lodge
We are staying at the Alaïa lodge, a lovely Alpine hotel in the center of Crans-Montana. Via this link You can find more information and book directly.
Cycling route Cycling in Crans-Montana: Furkapas
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