Why you should cycle the Alpine Panorama Route in Switzerland

There you are at the swimming pool. Still recovering from that 60 km solo MTB trip in 38 degrees. Enjoying some shade with your wife. Time to read a book. Or maybe a cycling magazine, of course. Suddenly my eye catches three words: Alpine. Panorama. Route. Every word makes me happy immediately. Because I love the mountains. I love beautiful views. And I love being on the bike while traveling. Two numbers make me gulp a little. 500 (kilometers) and 9000 (elevation meters). But still, I start dreaming. How cool would it be to not focus on speed, but to be on the road for six days only? Dreaming becomes planning. Let’s do this together. My best friend and myself. No pressure. No alpha men on the bike. Just two friends who are embarking on a cycling trip. 

Text and photos: Olivier Niclaus

Doubts

A month before departure, doubts are starting to arise. Will those 2500 kilometers that I have on my feet be enough to drive the Alpine Panorama Route? I should have trained somewhere else, not in Flanders. The ArdennesIs my Packing list for this trip, are we completely prepared? We are going to check the latest information and are relieved that we (for now) are not going on the ultimate bikepacking adventure. That 10-liter bag on the saddle will be enough extra weight.

Read also:

• our tips for a bikepacking adventure
• Bikepacking in a foreign country

Finally, it begins

It’s coming up soon. We’re staying in the town of Rorschach, on the beautiful Bodensee. Especially in the evening, at sunset, this is a beautiful lake. But the town itself seems to be in ruins. Gangs of thugs drive through roads with abandoned hotels. It’s already nine o’clock in the morning. We check our room at least ten times. Didn’t we forget anything? Because tomorrow and the day after tomorrow and, uh… the whole next week we need our equipment. 

Ready to leave. We are still less than 500 meters away and the first clouds are already rising to 10% meters. We look at each other and think the same thing without saying it out loud. Where did we start? Once we are up, we arrive at a plateau along the Bodensee. The same Bodensee as just now. But this time in a haven of peace. We take a five-minute break in the town of Walzenhausen. We see a first mountain train. Beautiful birds of prey fly right above us. Enjoying it to the fullest.

High mountain peaks

I know Switzerland from the high mountain peaks. Not from the Appenzeller region. But what a beautiful area to cycle in. The whole time we’re cycling at an altitude of about 800 meters. Not far from Appenzell itself, we have to set foot on the ground for a parade and procession of the local school. Well, ‘have to’. In Belgium, I would already become slightly impatient. Then I want to do miles and miles. Here we decide spontaneously to set aside the side of the road and have a look. Minutes. And I don’t have to tell you how nice it was that the local baker joined the procession and let us taste his delicacies. That tastes good after 55 kilometers.

The mountains call to us

A little later, it’s finally time. We pass the first time the 1,000-meter altitude limit. The mountain will undoubtedly have a name, but that is secondary at the moment to the obligatory selfie. Fiercely I pose for the sign that reads 1,068 m. At that moment, it dawns on me that our journey has truly begun. We have just conquered our first ‘mountain.’.

The final stop of the first leg is in sight. In a mainly descending line, we head towards Lichtensteig (not to be confused with Liechtenstein). Our GPS indicates a total of 90 km. The signal to enter the local supermarket and buy a bag of chips. That tastes good, as an aperitif. That evening we already look at tomorrow’s route. A glance at the elevation profile suggests to us that the 2^the The main course is on the menu the very same day. 

Good luck with the weather

Day two has arrived. We are lucky with the weather. They predict another day of sunshine. My friend wants to bring his rain jacket. Since I already know a bit about the weather phenomena in the mountains, I tell him that he is right. Because in the mountains things can change so quickly. But at that moment I am not rational. I feel so incredibly happy when I look outside, that I decide not to bring my rain jacket. Look at the sky. Impossible that it will rain. 

It already seems like a tradition. This day also begins with stretches that easily go towards 10% km/h. But after that initial effort, there are 50 more calm kilometers through the valley. Everywhere you look, left and right, behind and in front, you see beautiful landscapes. In the distance, the mountain peaks with the eternal (hopefully, anyway?) snow are already peeping out. Gradually, they are getting bigger and bigger. And we are getting smaller and smaller. 

Klausenpas

After a few unpaved stretches, the first (and thankfully also the last) mishap strikes as well. A flat tire. We take the moment to add some extra energy to our supply. Because that’s what comes to mind for us. The first Alpencol of our journey, the Klausenpass, a total of 22 kilometers long. I’m excited about it. We decide to stay together for as long as possible. Because hey, it’s a cycling trip. Not a race trip. The sporting challenge lies in the fact that we are standing at the foot of an Alpine giant that we are going to climb on our bikes. 

Best collar (so far)

This is the most beautiful climb I have ever climbed. Maybe that’s because I haven’t done enough bike trips yet. But the Mont Ventoux and Grand Ballon There's nothing against that. These are motorways. Here we are on a bicycle road And we hear the mountains. We climb from 400 to 1,952 meters high. We see the landscape getting more and more beautiful. At first it’s beautiful views over the valley. But once on the intermediate section – yes, those few kilometers at two to three percent did help – you really in The mountains. Make your part of the panorama. The last eight kilometers go again to percentages around 7%. It is on that stretch that I wave to my friend. I want to get to that peak as soon as possible. Because I know that I will be treated to new views there again. Once I get there, the selfie follows. And I curse for a moment that I can't go 48 meters higher. 

Out together, home together

Now we're waiting for my friend, while suddenly clouds appear. The clouds are getting thicker and thicker. We have a drink together, and get ready to start the descent. And just then. Just as we're over the top of the mountain, the unpredictability of the mountain comes to the fore. Torrential rain, even hail. There I am. Without a rain jacket. At the base, the thermometer showed 28 degrees. Up here, 4 degrees. I put on a windbreaker and, already panting, I start the descent. With the adrenaline pumping, but fortunately the heat is back. Downhill will never be my favorite discipline. But for enthusiasts, this is 1,500 altitude meters Enjoy. At the foot of the stairs we are almost dry again and our hotel is waiting for us. Paradoxically, we rush to the shower. Tired but satisfied, we enjoy a richly stuffed pizza in the evening. 

Another wonderful day

Thanks to the recup shake, the legs feel fresh at the start of day three. At breakfast we add to the day's altitude profile. A long flat start, with the Glaubenbielen towards the end. That name doesn't tell us much. We need to practice pronouncing it correctly. Before setting off, we do our research and decide to leave the dangerous Axenstrasse to the left. The start of the stage is in the Vierwoudenstedenmeer (near Flueing) And that’s something we need to discuss anyway. We’re opting for a crossing by boat. Is it thanks to the weather that it’s shining again? Is it thanks to the fantastic panorama that you see? On the boat it was pure enjoyment and I realized once again that we were experiencing a real cycling trip. 

Foot on land

Once docked in Beckenried, we have 30 km to recharge our legs for the next Alpencol. Those kilometers are the least scenic part of the trip. It does make me realize that Switzerland, that beautiful Alpine country, needs industry to be economically strong. Switzerland is not just a holiday and tourism country. Then the Swiss Frank wouldn’t be as strong as it is now.

Glaubenbielen – unknown but not ignored

And then it is indicated. The Glaubenbielen. 12.3 km at an average of 9.1%. What a horror. My GPS gave 12%, gave 14%, even gave 17%. A 7% -kilometer intermediate stretch suddenly felt like a false flat. In the beginning you have beautiful views of the Samersee. After that you dive into the forests. But it never gets boring. The views remain beautiful. However, the descent becomes all the more difficult. Even at the foot of the climb we decide to ride up at our own pace. We really don’t have the energy to talk to each other. Above, the reward came with another relaxing view. From there, we descend to Sörenberg and take it easy at the next hotel. I will forever pronounce the name Glaubenbielen correctly.

Halfway

We are halfway through and wow, what a work out those two Alpencols put in. On day 4 I wake up as if I had just slept for days. That feels good, as does the extensive breakfast. We also had a bit more time. Because today we have a short 65 km ride planned. The only real climb today would be at most 3^the scoring points in the Tour De France. So, one day without ‘hors categorie’. Time to take photos and to enjoy a delicious Swiss lunch on top of the Schallenberg. Next we head to Thun, the destination of the day. A fairly touristy but very cozy and beautiful town. Due to the short distance, we arrive around 3pm, giving us time to recharge our batteries and enjoy a snack and a drink. A welcome quiet cycling day.

We're moving on

Now the odometer has already reached 340 kilometers. That’s quite a lot after half way, but we have no urge to keep counting. We have barely left Thun and are still fully enjoying the view of the Alpine giants and the Jungfrau When we recall the tradition of the first two rides. BAF, there are the double digits again in the elevation percentage. This time the thing is called the Hubel 4. Just under three kilometers and 9% average. On a elevation profile over 500 km you don’t even notice it. But it becomes a crawl. The legs are still in tourist mode. With that, we have the hardest part of the ride behind us right away.

The next 75 km were not exactly flat, but they brought us across a very beautiful course. We were treated to a number of beautiful surprises, such as the rocks in Sankt Antoni, the beautiful city of Freiburg – or rather Fribourg, because from here on Switzerland became French-speaking and no longer German-speaking – and the 15 kilometers along the Lac de La Gruyère.  

Cheese

The name of the lake contained a (not so) hidden message. It told us the name of the town we were headed to, Gruyères. Famous for its delicious cheese. The view of the tourist attraction is truly fantastic. From miles away you can see the town perched on a hill, surrounded by a city wall. In the town, you feel as if you are in the Middle Ages, because the first settlement was already here in the 10^the century. Every now and then we get tempted by the tourist attractions too, so we decided to indulge in a cheese fondue for the last evening. Admit it, if you don’t eat cheese fondue in Gruyères, where in the world would you? 

Final destination Aigle

The last 70 kilometers. After the flood on the Klausenpass, after all those days of sunshine, we suddenly got to experience rain again. However, the raindrops had no impact on our mood, because they provided a lot of oxygen in this wooded area. For about 40 kilometers, we went in a steady ascent from 700 meters altitude to 1,500 meters. A ride without any traffic. Completely alone in this beautiful yet somewhat rugged region. 

The highlight of the ride is the reservoir at Lac de l’Hongrin. With this route, you cycle both north and south around the reservoir, giving you an almost 360° view of this artificial structure. After a final climb (finally lactic acid!) towards the top, we descended the Les Agites trail. A descent of 11 km at an average of almost 10% km/h. 

High test stage completed

Once down there, the realization sets in that this is a fantastic beautiful cycling route. From the border with Germany to the border with France. I might say that I ‘crossed Switzerland by bike’. And not just that. But through the Alps. Panorama. Route. None of these 3 words are lies. Just as I want to turn off the GPS, the screen shows ‘you have adapted to life at an altitude of 800 meters’. My first high altitude stage. Still more or less so. 

Alpine Panorama Cycling Route

Overnight stays

During our trip, we stayed at the following hotels. Recommended for anyone with a bike on the Alpine Panorama Route. All of them are good places to stop. For alternatives, you can also check out the various Swiss Bike Hotels, where you will find all the facilities for cyclists (such as lockable spaces for your bike, key sets, and rinsing stations) in each hotel.

• Hotel Mozart (Rorschach): A nice, small-scale hotel (35 rooms) in Mozart style, located near the Bodensee. It might not be to your taste, but it’s a good start for this adventure.
• Hotel-Café Hüber (Lichtensteig): A great stop on the way, where you'll find the basic facilities for an overnight stay.
• Hotel Höfli (Altdorf)This is a must-try. The pizzas from the wood-fired oven are richly seasoned, and the hotel has good facilities.
• Hotel Rischli (Sörenberg): Spacious rooms and a practical hotel. The presence of spa & wellness treatments is also a plus here. Just past halfway and you can really relax.
• Hotel Krone (Thun): A sustainable overnight accommodation in Thun. A good restaurant and comfortable rooms.
• Hotel de Gruyères (Gruyères)Enjoying yourself in this cheese city. This hotel offers a nice touch of extra support and relaxation after a long day on the bike. Wellness and massages are available. The view is also worth mentioning. Cheese fondue is a must.

Other tips:

• If you're at the finish in Aigle, you really should drive on to the World Centre of Cycling, the home of the UCI. This beautiful complex is full of cycling. A short walk in and a cup of coffee (or lunch) will definitely be a treat. Who knows, you might even run into future or former champions!
• Along the way, you pass the Vierwoudstedenmeer. You can make a small detour to Lucerne, a beautiful place, where the medieval Chapel Bridge is a beautiful monument. Drive a few kilometers around!