Croatia It is becoming increasingly popular as a cycling destination, especially along the coast on the Adriatic Sea. We have already written about beautiful routes in Istria, which you can find in this article. Here in Croatia you’ll find a wealth of culture, beautiful landscapes, and culinary specialties. Did you know that this country has a whopping 1,185 islands? In four days, Lotte Seppenwoolde explored the Dalmatian islands of Hvar and Brač. Cycling in Croatia is a must-try! Check out her report for tips on discovering this cycling region.
Text: Lotte Seppenwoolde – Photos: Lotte Seppenwoolde
Reception in Split
Around midday I arrive at the airport in Split. A taxi takes me to a restaurant in the city center, where part of the group and our guide Dino have already settled in. In the end, the group will be made up of nine people. After a hearty lunch, there is time for a short walk. The weather is not really cooperating yet. So far it has been cloudy and every now and then I feel a drizzle. On a plus side: it’s quite warm. From the viewpoint I look out over the city and the clear blue sea. What a beautiful sight!
Sipping culture in Hvar town
The catamaran takes us to the island of Hvar in an hour. Once there, we get a short tour. This island is known for its lavender fields and many cultural attractions. From the Franciscan monastery, you have a beautiful view of the bay. Next, we walk a little further. On the large town square you can find, among other things, the Cathedral of St. Stephen and the Loggia. We also go inside the oldest public theater in Europe, which is now in use again. If you go deeper into the city, you’ll find all kinds of picturesque alleys. There are no shortages of restaurants. The Dalmatian cuisine is Mediterranean. Many dishes are prepared with olive oil and herbs. After dinner, we can settle in at Hotel Amfora, near a secluded bay.
Time to go cycling!
The next morning, two local guides from Natural Hvar Tours are waiting for us in Brusje to take us cycling around the island. To my great surprise, the sun is shining brightly. That wasn’t predicted. Today’s route ends in Velo Grablje, and along the way we will pass Velo Grablje, Stari Grad, Dol, Verbanj and Vrboska. First, we head towards Velo Grablje. From here, you can climb relatively easily up. From the paved roads, you have a beautiful view of the mountainous landscape. At a certain point, you come across a chapel, the St. Rock Lookout. From here, you can choose to cycle a section of the Napoleon’s Road. This path runs between Hvar and Stari Grad and is 2.60 meters wide. We take the main road and descend towards Stari Grad: the oldest city in Croatia. Here, we take a look at the Tvrdalj Castle. In the 16the This was the summer residence of poet Petar Hektorović.
No wine?
We take time for lunch at Konoba Kokot in Dol. A charming place with local food, such as homemade goat cheese. After that, it’s time to get back on the bike. This turns out to be a short trip. After ten minutes, we stop at the house of one of the bike guides for a tasting. In a cave-like room, we are offered various types of wine and traditional gingerbread from Stari Grad. Since 2008, the Stari-Grad plain, which is mainly cultivated with grapes and olives, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our route crosses this unique landscape. In the summer season, this will present a even more beautiful picture.
The final touches
At the end of the route, we cycle along a flat stretch along the coast. Here you’ll find beautiful beaches and harbours. Finally, we arrive in Jelsa, a real cultural hotspot. In total, we have covered about 34 kilometers on the bike. All in all, this cycling route is easy to do, as the majority of it goes downhill. Tomorrow we will set off for BraČ, the largest island of the Dalmatian region.
Cycling in Croatia: Island hopping from Hvar to Brač
After breakfast, it’s time to take the boat to the island of Brač. In 20 minutes we’ll be in Bol, the oldest city on the island. Brač is known for its white stone and the Zlatni Rat beach. You can also find the Vidova Gora here, a mountain of 778 meters high. This mountain is easy to reach from our starting point in Bol. I’m lucky again, because the sun is shining brightly. Today we’ll cycle together with a guide from Big Blue Sport to Vidova Gora (25 km) and Donji Humac (12 km). After lunch, we’ll continue our journey and end up in Supetar (8 km).
Zlatni Rat
First we cycle along the most famous beach in Croatia: Zlatni Rat (Golden Horn). The path to this beach is fairly flat. This impressive beach has a special shape and is surrounded by the clear blue sea. One of the reasons you should definitely take a look here is that it is one of the most beautiful beaches in Croatia.
Gravelicious
At some point, we tackle a few amazing gravel roads full of stones and pebbles. A nice challenge for the gravel lovers among us. The path winds up and down for about five kilometers. Meanwhile, you enjoy the amazing view.
Vidova Gora (778 meters)
Then the real work begins: the steep climb to Vidova Gora. Here you encounter challenging climbs over slippery asphalt. Along the way we encounter a number of beautiful curves, with each one offering a different and beautiful view of the impressive landscape. At the end, we cycle through a wooded area, after which we reach the top. From there, you can look out over the island and see, among other things, Zlatni Rat.
Stop… and on
After a nice descent, it’s time for lunch at Konoba Kopačina in Donji Humac. Here I had delicious grilled lamb. This is practically on the menu at every konoba (Croatian for tavern), but this place is truly famous for it. You can try it. With our bellies full, we cycle the last stretch down towards Supetar. There we’ll spend the night at the SENTIDO Kaktus Resort, where you can relax after a long day of cycling by the pool with a delicious cocktail. During the dinner on the last evening, we look back on a wonderful time with everyone and share our experiences about the beautiful bike tours on the islands of Hvar and Brač.
Palace of Diocletian
Early in the morning we take the ferry from Supetar to Split. It is a bit cloudy again, but it’s dry. After three quarters of an hour we arrive in the port city. Split is the second largest city in Croatia. Here you’ll find plenty of atmosphere and cultural attractions. We visit the Palace of Diocletianus, where guide Dino tells us interesting facts about the history of the palace and Split. Unfortunately, it’s already time to head back to our home base. What a beautiful cycling destination this was. I definitely hope to return here again!
Overnight stay and dining on the island of Hvar
- At the Amfora Hotel in Hvar, you can rent bicycles. You can safely leave your belongings at the luggage storage. This luxurious hotel with (private) beach is a good starting point for your cycling adventures.
- Do you prefer fish or meat? At Konoba Kokot in Dol, you can have it all. Enjoy the Mediterranean cuisine and a delicious liqueur or house wine during or after your bike ride.
Overnight stay and dinner on the island of Brač
- Staying on the island of Brač? You can do that at the SENTINO Cactus Resort in Supetar. This hotel has no less than three swimming pools and an open-air pebble beach within walking distance.
- Konoba Kopačina is known for its lamb specialties, but you can also find other meat and fish dishes here.
- The port city of Supetar is a popular tourist destination. It is therefore no surprise that you can eat super delicious fish at Konoba Vinotoka.
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.