If the Giro d'Italia for men is over, the cycling peloton shifts its focus to preparing for the Tour de France. Traditionally, these include the Dauphiné, the Tour of Switzerland and, more recently, the Tour of Slovenia. In the shadow of these events, Extragiro organises the similarly named Extra Giro, popularly known as the Baby Giro. This ride for riders under 23 travels through a number of beautiful regions over a short period of time, including this year, 2022, through Emilia Romagna. Cycling Destination was present this year to explore the regions. Explorer Wouter went along to cycle in Italy, and if his story is to be believed, he wants to go back again immediately for a cycling holiday in Italy. What is your favourite region?
Text: Wouter van den Boogard, Photos: Paolo Ciaberta
Around Imola
As I receive the programme for the trip to Italy, a gem of Italian motorsport immediately catches my eye. Imola's race track is iconic. Not just for the cars but certainly also for the motorbikes that finish their GrandPrix there every year. In 2020, this circuit took on a new dimension with the (impromptu) World Championship organised in Emilia Romagna. Everyone will remember Filippo Ganna, Anna van der Breggen and Julian Alaphilippe taking prizes there. The red-white-and-green kerbstones were a wonderful backdrop for something that had to be rigged haply and under pressure. We are going that way too. Riding on hallowed ground has something special after all. Just like driving across Zandvoort, Spa or, say, the Yas Marina Circuit. Can't wait.
Car still has right of way
When we arrive in Bologna on Friday, fresh pasta and cannoli are already waiting for us. That's cycling in Italy in a nutshell. Because, of course, you have to eat well if you have to conquer the hilly surroundings of Emilia Romagna. We still have a short ride ahead of us towards Imola for a route of almost 30 kilometres on the UCI World Cup course. Another reality in Italy: as nice as it sounds, the car still has priority. The track ends up being closed because of a race event. That's just too bad. The route is beautiful and takes you through rolling countryside. A wonderful warm-up for the coming days when we travel after the 36 (!) participating teams. We are perfectly accommodated after this ride in hotel Antico Borgo from where we also catch the team presentation.
Via Panoramica
Where the Dolomites or, say, Mount Etna provide iconic pictures for the 'big' Giro d'Italia, the ExtraGiro chooses a slightly different route. The region around Cesenatico is not the most beautiful, but it is one full of cycling history. From the hotel you have several choices, for example along the Adriatic sun coast, where the villages, Rimini, Riccione and Cesenatico will have many a sun worshipper in ecstasy. Many a cyclist will especially want to visit Cesenatico, as an ode to Pantani.
Italian Plane
The region near the hotel on the coast is mostly flat but with a ride of around 100km, you can certainly grab a nice number of altimeters. At least, if that's your goal for a holiday. If you really want to test the legs, you can find a small steep climb of +10% in Santarcangelo. Very steep but definitely worthwhile. We ourselves had a small mechanical problem after 33 km. Fortunately, within 15 minutes a car from the hotel is in front of me and I am driven back to the coast. The bike is immediately fixed by the hotel mechanic. Now that's service!
Back to start and the Via Panoramica
After this route and quick bike fix, it's time to head to Gradara to witness the start of the Giro U23. We visit the teams and catch some of the excitement of the race before the first stage. After the departure of the peloton, we ride in a direct line to the coast to take in a stretch of the Via Panoramica to drive. Highly recommended for beautiful views, cliffs and vineyards. The villages like Fiorenzuola di Focara and Casteldimezzo are pure delight. The beautiful old buildings and typical Italian atmosphere make you immediately want to stay for espresso and a good pasta. Cycling in Italy is wonderful, especially just outside the summer crowds.
Unfortunately, this time we have less time to fully immerse ourselves in Italian culture. It's straight on to the finish in Gabicce Monte at the Via Panoramica shop of the same name. We strike up a conversation with Brazilian owner Cecilia. She has lived in Italy for 20 years and organises bike tours and holidays on the coast and other areas of the country. Still special how a Brazilian ends up here again.
Cycling hotels
That Italy is totally bike-crazy should be no secret by now. Especially also in Emilia-Romagna, where local hero Pantani is also posthumously omnipresent. During our trip, we stay one night in the delightful Lungo Mare bicycle hotel. Here, everything is geared to the cyclist, with a storage room, a bike wash and a key corner. So you are ready to discover the region on the trail of Il Elefantino. Of course with a delicious doppio before setting off. Because if anything is Italian, it's the coffee culture. Italy has many more such cycling hotels. As far as we are concerned, such a basecamp is a good prerequisite for a successful cycling holiday.
Off to the factory
Contrary to what eidereverybody always thinks, press trips are hard work. Why? A region and its partners are keen to show all they have to offer. Not infrequently, this means long days on the road with a combination of cycling, eating, culture and obligatory visits. Especially in southern countries, people still like to work with the motto: 24 hours in a day and then we still have the night. It would have been music to the ears of artist manager Jaap Buijs.
Up early
So too on the Sunday of our trip, Day 3. We get up early for a visit to the Wilier-Triestina factory and headquarters in the Veneto region. A wonderful insight into more than a century of cycling history. For a cycling fan like me, there are several wonderful bikes to discover. Marco Pantani's bikes and Ivar Slik's Unbound-winning gravel bike stand out head and shoulders above them. Should you ever get the chance to take a look inside a factory, don't miss the opportunity!
Cycling in Italy: Lake Garda
After a transfer to Arco, which lies to the north of Lake Garda, the bikes come out again. For anyone familiar with the region will know that it is also beautiful cycling here. Pretty soon we have to put our legs to work for a climb of about six kilometres. The percentages were quite pleasant with about 5 a 6% constant ascent. A great training climb to test and improve your climbing skills. I was blessed by Alberto Neri to pop solo and turn around at the top for some nice photos.
On to Pinzolo
We continue a little further towards Pinzolo (the finish site of the Giro that day) and we pass Lago di Tenno. I immediately feel like taking a holiday there. What a beautiful lake with little noticeable tourism. Maybe it's down to the temperatures because by now the thermometer on the Wahoo about 34 degrees. Time for a short stop and a nice coke. Although: a short stop it won't be. The Italians always take plenty of time for everything.
At the top of Passo Daone, you can take the last 25km to Pinzolo via a cycling route along the water or via the national road. The cycle path meanders left and right and frequently has no right of way. The SS239 has good tarmac and is the fastest option. Pedalling along a bit, we arrive 10 minutes before the winner and fortunately we don't have a transfer to another village. The well-deserved ice cream tastes great.
The last day
Road bike traded in for an e-MTB of Cicli Neri. Today the focus is on off-road the Dolomites in. After riding with the pros for a bit in the neutralisation over the pavement, we go off-road. What great views and network of unpaved paths. Even without battery and bike, it is quite doable for the trained cyclist. As often happens in the mountains, the weather suddenly turned and we got a big thunderstorm on our roof. So we took shelter in a cowshed. After the rain we continued up towards Madonna di Campiglio. The pre-planned route was closed for maintenance but with the help of Komoot we quickly made a new route. In the luxurious ski village of Madonna di Campiglio, fortunately a restaurant is open for some delicious paninis. This is the life.
Time to go again
As I mentioned: a press trip is ultimately about doing a lot in little time. So real enjoyment is not quite in the cards because, due to the busy programme, we have to go again. Cycling in Italy may go 'piano piano', but when it comes to the programme, it's nice and busy. We descend at a brisk pace again heading for Pinzolo where the hotel shower awaits us. From here it's just under three hours to Milan for the return flight. Thus we end four beautiful days in Italy in a fitting manner.
ExtraGiro 2022
The ExtraGiro is actually a collection of races, of which the Giro d'Italia for under-23 riders is the highlight. In seven stages, these young riders ride across Italy. From Gradara to Argenta and then into the mountains. Beautiful routes to cycle in Italy. For first into the Dolomites, then towards Cuneo, where the ghosts of both Bartali and Coppi were still around. It doesn't get much more beautiful, does it?
